dem0nk1d

So rebuilt this d17a1 and installed everything new but the auto tensioner. Does this need to be replaced if you can still tighten the belt down correctly?

My method doesn’t even use the grenade pin.

1.) Loosen and install the Auto Tensioner
2.) Disconnect Spring
3.) Install belt
4.) Install AT spring
5.) Rotate counter clockwise
6.) Tighten AT bolt
7.) Call it a day

mikey1

you need to use the grenade pin method,

with the belt removed....

- line up the two holes in the tensioner and install the grenade pin
- tighten tensioner bolt snug, then loosen the bolt half turn
- install timing belt
- install tensioner spring
- rotate crankshaft TWO revolutions and check TDC marks again
- tighten/torque tensioner bolt to spec
- remove grenade pin

those are the steps that should be followed

the tensioner will last a long time but not forever, so you just need to guage it yourself....i replaced my tensioner and water pump at 240,000km even though both items were still functioning fine

dem0nk1d

I guess so, i don't see the need for the gernade pin, it doesn't hold the tensionor back for me...

mikey1

it lines up the positioning of the tensioner base on the block

dem0nk1d

i still don't see the need for it if you can create the tension into the belt that is needed and snug the tensioner into place. But I guess Honda is always right! I'm just pissed i have to tear apart everything to get to the damn t-belt. I wish this engine was a true D-series and not this whole redesigned crap. D17 in my book is the worst design they did. Especially the A/C line going directly over the engine.. Smarts i tell you.

mikey1

the tensioner can still move after the bolt is tightened


where else could they put the A/c lines? Under the engine?

dem0nk1d

88-00 had hard lines that were tucked against the fender rails and then across the radiator support. IDK maybe i'm old school now and can relate to the old school v8 guys, where they are like i just don't understand these new ideas. LOL!

88-00 4LIFE =P