Rep Power: 0

First of all, as I'm new here, hello to all of you. I'm now fixing my paraplegic Daughter's 2001 Civic Coupe Auto LX. Her boyfriend totally destoyed it's radio, headlights, Instrument Panel, under dash wiring, etc "customizing" the car for HID lights, neon lights, boomer stero, etc. I have replaced all of his handy work (1000 taps) with OEM parts again. All of the factory wiring and connectors appear to be intact.

I really appreciate any of your help and assistance as I know very little about Honda electronics. I am pretty handy with cars, and reallly don't want to spend money at the Honda dealer when I can do it myself.

Here is my problem:

When I turn on the headlights, the radio and power door locks lose power. When the headlights are on, they work. If it was opposite, I would assume that the radio and locks were on the headlights power wiring. However, with the headlights on, and no power to the others, I am very confused. Any ideas? In addition, there is a green connector under the left side of the dash by the lower dash panel that has the mirror and fog light controls. However it does not connect to that panel. Any ideas where it connects to?

Sorry for the long post. I really do need some assistance and ideas. If it has to go to the Honda dealer, then so be it, but I wanted to try and fix it myself first. I am also looking for wiring diagrams and information for the circuits. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Ron

 
Rep Power: 0

Discovered that the green connector under the drivers kick panel is the factory alarm connector and is unused in my car. How hard is it to replace the dash wiring harness?

 
Rep Power: 812

it will be a real pain to remove the dash and install new harnesses. better idea is make a new harness for the headlights with a relay and fuse feeding directly from the battery and then tied into the factory 12v headlight wire as a trigger. this is a simple diagram i made for hids, but the same is true for halogen. maybe $20 in parts for the wiring and fuse and the relay is a standard 20/30 amp automotive bosch/tyco from partsexpress.com

for this diagram, just pretend the hid ballast is a halogen bulb

 
Rep Power: 518

Has ^^this^^ problem been "taken care of" yet?

May be time for a "shotgun cleaning party".....



The car, probably need a complete book of wiring diagrams, and some time.
The common denominator appears to be the multiplex unit right now, but there is a lot of testing (and wiring!!!) to do before condemning it.
Find the self diagnostic procedures and see if the unit has other problems that you haven't discovered yet.

Human error is some of the toughest to figure out.

 
Rep Power: 518

Oh yeah, replacing a dash harness usually involves pulling the dash out (depends on where all it reaches to).
Not a simple jorb.

 
Rep Power: 0

Welcome to the board! I am confused by this statement. Do the radio and locks WORK or NOT when the headlights are switched on?

I really don't think you need to go as far as replacing the entire harness.

 
Rep Power: 0

To Scooty - Thanks. With the radio on, and the headlights off, the radio plays and the door locks work. When you turn on the headlights, thhe radio and the power locks go dead like the key has been turned off.

To Ezone - Yes, he is gone to Dallas to his Mom to leech off of. Hopefully he will not ever return. But what do they say about bad pennies... I can tell you this, he will NEVER touch her car again in any way.

 
Rep Power: 0

Gearbox,

Thanks.Great diagram. Very clear. I assume that this is the worst case that I start splitting/re-running circuits? Does this solution work for all of the headlight functions? lows, highs, parking, turn signals, etc? I assume it is just for the headlight low/high beams only? What is the difference between the red and the red/yel wires? Is there a left and right ballast on normal non HID headlights? I assume no. What does the 30, 86, 87, and 85 depict on the diagrams relay?

Is there one common point where the headlight, power locks, and radio power all come together (a single fuse, fuse box, or relay?). It seems like they have to have a common connection somewhere besides the battery LOL.

Sorry for so many questions, but I need a starting point unless someone knows a good auto wiring guy in the Springboro Ohio proximity. I'd pay good money to get this fixed if I knew what I was up against. I'm just worried that the local dealer would not want the job and would spend hours to determine the cause and fix. I'm going to post a few pictures in a separate post that I hope may answer a few questions.

 
Rep Power: 0

Guy's,

Is there a 12v/40a relay mounted under the driver's kick panel on the top left? I removed this relay believing that it was added for the aftermarket stereo. This is the only item I removed under the dash/inside. All other work was to remove new wire taps from existing factory wires attached to OEM connectors.

The relay has 4 wires - black, yellow, yellow/blue, and red/blue. Here is a picture of it. If I did screw up, what do the 4 wires connect to?

 
Rep Power: 0

I removed this from the hood and headlights. Believe it was for the HID's circuit? Two yellow connectors. One to each headlight. I replaced this cable with the stock headlight connectors to the non-HID original headlight bulbs/lenses. Sorry I am so ignorant about this.

 
Rep Power: 308

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/a...6&d=1281967392

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/a...0&d=1267189121

The relays removed are aftermarket stuff and not factory.

Check your PM

 
Rep Power: 0

I do assume that this was tapped in under the drivers kick panel at the rear left for the stereo. I can't see anything else it could be for.

This is my last picture- I promise unless asked for one by you.

 
Rep Power: 0

Craig,

Thanks. I'll study the PDF info. I thought that these connectors were all aftermarket as they were all on factory wire taps. Just double checking.

Ron

 
Rep Power: 0

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...trol-unit.html

I'll check the Multiplex control unit power at fuse #8 and E2, Q7, and V2. I'll also get a circuit tester, and try to figure out how to "back probe"...

Love this stuff. Kill the boyfriend... What a a frigging idiot... BTW.. he zip-tied all of the bumper cover fastener locations back on where he installed the HID's. Didn't know (or was too cheap) to use/buy the plastic push tabs. He also put screws into the dash and headliner to connect neon lights. I can't even comprehend putting screws into a perfectly good dash panel. It's a good thing that this is not still the wild west. I'd hang him from a tree.

 
Rep Power: 308

Those are aftermarket as well.

You should be o.k. removing all the crap 3rd party wiring. And it should be simple to tell aftermarket items from factory.

Electrical tape or heat shrink any exposed wires.

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks to all of you for your help. Especially Craig you helped me out with technical details and information. The multiplexor reset has cured most of my electrical issues.

I still have the SRS and ABS lights on. Seems to be plenty of info to take care of the SRS on the forum.

1.As the car does not actually have ABS (I had to replace the instrument cluster) do any of you know how to turn that warning lights off besides removing the bulb in the cluster? Is there a single wire or fuse somewhere?

2. Is there any way to read the car's actual/original mileage stored in the ECU? The new cluster say's 158K and I'd like to know real mileage on the car. No I don't have the original cluster as the dumbass boyfriend tossed it (only worth about $100) for a white faced LED version. Anyone want it?

Thanks Ron

 
Rep Power: 308

If the cluster has a bulb and socket...? removal would be the way to go.

The cluster removal is pretty easy.

If it uses an LED it could a little different.

ezone may know about reading mileage, likely could be done by dealer. Not sure of others ways to read.

 
Rep Power: 518

If you got a wrong cluster (wasn't for your exact car) then removing the light is next. I DO think it is an LED, so chopping a leg off of it would disable it (if it comes down to that).
Note: I don't remember ever taking one of these clusters apart, this is an educated guess.


Mileage WAS stored in the old cluster. No other control units have it.
You would have to send your cluster out to get the correct mileage entered in your new one.
Dealers are not equipped to do this, you must send it to a speedo shop.

Read here, more details are in this thread: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...r-problem.html


HTH

 
Rep Power: 0

Ezone, Thanks. Not wanting to tamper/change the cluster mileage. Heard that the Civic also kept the car's real mileage in the ECU. All I want to know is what's in the ECU unit. Wondered if anyone knew how to retrieve that value?

Ron

 
Rep Power: 518

Even a dealer scanner can't get mileage from the PCM, it's not there.
Again: