Kevin_646

I'd like to ask for some help troubleshooting a power window:

Symptom: Front passenger power window doesn't work (with either switch)

Can someone tell me the next thing to test/troubleshoot?
Or possibilities where the failure might be?

Drivers side power window works
Did the first test: Motor/window works when connected directly to 12V (passenger side)
Bought/installed a new switch on passenger side - Still doesn't work

What's next? The manual doesn't give much troubleshooting steps.

Could there be a problem with the drivers side switch, to make the passenger side window not work?
Is there any reason to reset the "Power Window Control Unit" if 3 windows work?
Is there a chance it could be one of the fuses, if other 3 power windows work?

Here's a picture. Notice there are 2 loose connections, not connected to anything. Is that normal?
I'm wondering if it could be a wire. I bought the car used. Looks like this door has been off before.
Has grey tape on some wires.

It's an 03 Civic LX, 4 door
What would you test next?
What do you think is the next most likely thing to be the problem?

Thank you,
Kevin

ezone

Can someone tell me the next thing to test/troubleshoot?
Or possibilities where the failure might be?





Did the first test: Motor/window works when connected directly to 12V (passenger side)

That's a big plus.

Bought/installed a new switch on passenger side - Still doesn't work

*rolls eyes*

What's next? The manual doesn't give much troubleshooting steps.

A wiring diagram, a test light, and a lot of understanding.

Could there be a problem with the drivers side switch, to make the passenger side window not work?

Yes.

Is there any reason to reset the "Power Window Control Unit" if 3 windows work?

No.

Is there a chance it could be one of the fuses, if other 3 power windows work?

Yes. Check #22, 23, 24, 25 in the dash fusebox.
22 is for the RF window motor.
Here's a picture. Notice there are 2 loose connections, not connected to anything. Is that normal?

Maybe. Probably for an EX or something you don't have.


I'm wondering if it could be a wire.

Easy enough to prove, no guesses.But I'd doubt that's it.

Looks like this door has been off before.

Big clue is usually the plastic liner has been torn, mutilated, missing, out of place, or the sticky crap is all over the place.

Has grey tape on some wires.

Not a big deal. Could be factory.

It's an 03 Civic LX, 4 door
What would you test next?
What do you think is the next most likely thing to be the problem?

In the master switch: Does the button FEEL the least bit different from the rear two? Quite often when they break, they FEEL just a little bit wrong.

I'd be using a test light at the drivers switch to make absolutely certain it is good, or not.
I'd have the proper wiring diagram, and study it so I understand how it all works. Then I'd be testing.
I'd pop the master switch out and leave the wires connected to it. Then backprobe a test light into #1 (blu/red) and #3 (blu/wht) then work the switch and see if the test light lights in both the up and down positions.

Whether the light does or does not light up with that test, determines my next step. Following the wire diagram, of course.





Isn't one of those plugs for the window switch?
The window motor can't work as long as either of the front window switches are unplugged.



HTH

jarhead

I have a 2002 honda civic neither switch will put down the passenger side widow. It worked then once it got closed it stopped working...I've replaced both fuses and the relay still looked good. Any ideas what it could be???

imdrecordings

Did you ever figure this out? Same thing as the first and third poster
I'm in the same boat and it's not the regulator.
Thanks for any help

imdrecordings

UPdate.. it seems fuse related.
I tracked it down to the 20a fuse blowing.
I replace the fuse and the pulley pushes the window upwards, but then stops working. Some times the fuse is blown and sometimes not

ezone

A few things come to mind:

How many amps is the motor drawing while the glass is moving? Compare to one of the others that doesn't cause the problem.


Does the switch stick, leaving the motor trying to run after you let go of it? (I have seen this cause window motors to burn out.)


The motor should have an internal circuit breaker to protect itself from overheating. It could be tripping if the switch was stuck on. That might explain why it wouldn't work for a while and the fuse was still ok.


Wiring in the door jamb causing problems?

HTH