Rep Power: 0

I have read several of the posts around here and the net about the air blower (the thing that pushes warm/cool air out of the vents) not working. Mine doesn't work some of the time. When I do the self diagnostic DTC (the one where you hold down the recirculation and defront buttons at the same time while turning the car on), I can feel the air come out, change speed and temp, and then turn off. I don't get any DTC codes from the recirculation light blinking. But, the blower doesn't turn on more than half of the time. It does seem to turn on more regularly after I do the DTC, almost like it is getting the fan unstuck, or something.

Does the DTC do anything differently to start the blower than moving the speed ****? Does the blower need to be oiled? What should my next step be?

Thanks!

 
Rep Power: 308

Release and lower the glove box and pull the cabin filter out the next time it fails to start. With car on and the fan on at low speed setting reach in and spin the white cage/fan and see if it will start to run after spinning by hand.
You will also be able to tell then if the fan is tight/bound.

 
Rep Power: 0

So, I did what you said and upon spinning the fan, it kicked on and started spinning like it is supposed to. How can I tell if it is too tight? I don't think there are any obstructions, but it is pretty hard to see in there from the filter hole. What should I do now?

Also, before I spun the fan, I did hear something whir when I put the speed on low. Also, in case you need to know, when I use the outside air, I can still feel hot/cold air depending on what the temperature **** is set at.

Thanks again!

 
Rep Power: 308

Not sure about the noise... unless it ran for a short bit then stopped, You could leave the filter out, and the glove box down and have a look when you switch it on.

The best way to check for binding is with igniton & engine off reach in and gently touch the fan blades they should spin/move with very little effort and continue to spin a bit after spinning by hand.

When the car is moving some air will always be moving through the cabin even with fan off.

 
Rep Power: 0

The noise kept going, almost like a fan spinning. But, that was more of an observation and I don't think it is the issue.

So, I just spun the fan and it was what I would consider difficult and it definitely did not spin after I stopped applying pressure.

 
Rep Power: 235

If the re-circ button isn't pushed.

@ Fuego: Pull the panel below the glovebox and you'll see this:


Dis-connect the connector on the blower motor then remove the 3 screws holding the it in. It should just fall out then.

 
Rep Power: 0

First off, excellent picture! What am I looking for in the blower motor? Some obstruction? Is there some oil or other lubricant that I need to apply at a certain point?

 
Rep Power: 235

Look for obstructions and wear on the sides (may have to remove the blades). Wear on the sides means the bearings are going and you need a new blower motor. If it needs lube it would be in the center.

 
Rep Power: 308

The top bushing (under the cone)on my 05 developed a noise. I drilled the cone for access and applied Tri-Flow to the bushing. Would work a while then get chirping noise again, I replaced the fan.

The original part # has been superseded for 7th and 8th gen blower fans.

It it is tight... it may not want to start up without help imo.

 
Rep Power: 0

Is there some way to "push" it if it doesn't start without taking everything apart? I did notice that if I did the HVAC DTC test (described in first post) then that would kickstart it and make it work a couple of times in a row. But, I worry that constantly using that, and not fixing the problem, will lead to bigger/more expensive problems down the road. Not to mention it might not be good for the system to do that test on a daily/every other day basis.

 
Rep Power: 308

Might try having it on high at start up, If it runs keep it at low speed after it starts running. maybe, maybe not.

 
Rep Power: 235

If it's FUBAR then I would just get a new motor. Take it apart 1 time and be done with it. They're running $50-75 new and $25-50 salvage.

 
Rep Power: 0

If it is messed up, ie, no oil needed, then where would be a good place to get it? I am assuming a Honda dealership will be the most expensive. Is a place like AutoZone likely to have one? And you mentioned salvage. I have never done this before. How would that work?

I didn't get home from work til late last night, so I didn't have time to pull it out, but I plan on doing that either today or sometime this weekend. Will keep you all posted. And thanks again for your help and input.

 
Rep Power: 308

It is likely a dealer item, maybe not.

If you order online you save money and then loose savings in shipping (at least on small orders)

See if the dealer will give a price lower than msrp.

http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine...0-S5D-A01.html

The original # was superseded... make sure you are getting the new # part.

 
Rep Power: 235

Google "Honda OEM parts" for online dealers. Usually the local dealers will be 10-20% more than list price. Local autoparts store should have one, or can order one.

Starting at $48.63 including shipping: http://www.rockauto.com/

Nationwide salvage listings (search by zipcode): http://www.car-part.com/

Also, look on local craigslist and eBay.

 
Rep Power: 0

I was looking up prices at the rock auto website (thanks for the link) and I noticed that right below the listing for a blower motor, there was a listing for a blower motor resistor. They were both close to the same price, so I was wondering if there was anything I could do to check to see if the resistor was going bad and not the motor. I want to try and avoid buying a blower motor and then that turning out to not be the problem after all.

also, is there a preferred/recommended type of oil that I should use when oiling the blower motor?

 
Rep Power: 308

7th gens use a "transistor" assembly, It is a solid state replacement for the old style nichrome coils "resistor" used for many years.

Any light oil would work 3 in 1 maybe a small amount of wd40

 
Rep Power: 0

Sweet. I have some WD-40 at home, I was just thinking there was some special oil that needed to be used.

Is there a way I can check to see if the transistor is failing?

Also, as a quick aside, is there any way I can change the browsing of threads so that the first post is at the top of the page instead of the last one?

 
Rep Power: 0

All right, so I finally took out the blower motor when it stopped working again and i had some time. I applied some WD-40 near the middle (where all of the copper wiring is wrapped up), but it didn't seem to do a whole lot, except ooze out when I plugged the blower back in. Is there some way to take the blades off? They look like one big piece and when I tugged on it, after taking off the metal pressure thing at the top, it didn't seem like I could take it off without breaking something. It may just be easier to buy a new blower motor.

Also, any suggestions for what position is best when accessing the blower motor? I found it to be a pain, both figuratively and literally, to get down there. I was literally lying on my back on the passenger seat, facing up, trying to get a good view of things while I was taking it off.

One more thing...I was looking up the part number for the blower motor, and the hondapartsnow website said the part number, 79310-S5D-A01, was superceded by another. Well, i searched on that one, using my VIN, and it said the new part number was compatible. I searched on just that new part number, 79310-SCV-A01, is only good for the 2011 Element. Just a little confused by the website at this point.

 
Rep Power: 308

http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine...0-S5D-A01.html

 
Rep Power: 0

Right, when I go to the link you gave, it says it is superceded by79310-SCV-A01. When I do a search for that part, I get the following:
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine...0-SCV-A01.html
And the only compatible vehicle it lists is the 2011 element. It looks like it is not compatible with my 04 civic, but I am not sure why the original part number says it is superceded, but when I search on that part, it makes no mention of the older cars.

 
Rep Power: 308

The element was based off of the Civic, I found some other sites that list the Civics in the application for that #. Check with your dealer.

 
Rep Power: 0

So, quick update. I applied a generous amount of WD-40 to the motor (at least I think it was, all I could really see when I took off the little plastic flap was copper wire coiled around the middle shaft). After dabbing up the extra WD-40 that came out while it was spinning, and working the fan blade back and forth to further work in the WD-40, it spun just fine. I haven't touched it in two weeks and haven't had any issues with it not coming on.

This fixed, or at least patched, the issue I was having, as well as giving me a little confidence should I have to replace the blower motor later. I found several places online that sells them for less than $50 shipped. Also, I can change the air filters myself.

Thanks for all of the help!!!