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So I was traveling uphill with a little tension on the engine and I think the timing belt might have slipped. It lost power and died on me. When I tried to restart it, it sounded as if it was dragging and wouldnt start. I trailored it to a local shop. I gave it a little gas and it started and ran on the trailer but only with throttle and it sounded horrible, like it was out of time. I read the 1.7 is an interference engine so I was worried about the valves striking the pistons. It sat for a week or so at a garage but he never worked on it, so he said, and when i picked it up it wouldn't turn over. I took it to my garage and tore it apart, valve cover, breather, motor mount, timing chain cover etc. Then the problem came into play, I couldn't rotate the engine to top dead center to see if it was in time. It would only move around an eigth of a turn clockwise or counterclockwise, like it was striking something. After removing the timing belt the overhead cam turned fine though and all the valves depressed fine it seemed. Still no movement besides the same eigth turn on the crank though. Only thing I can think is that a piston was busted and a piece of the pistion has binded the piston from moving maybe? I haven't pulled the intake, exhaust and head yet to see...thought I'd get some advice first maybe.....Thanks

 
Rep Power: 200

These things are interference engines.
They usually don't have reciprocating assembly problems unless boosted. Stranger things have happened though. It is man made and men make mistakes....

Pull the head and see. There is absolutely no need to pull the intake and exhaust manifolds, not real sure why everyone says too, its more work. The head is bulkier with them of course, but one guy can pull it all off at once. All that needs done is the electrical connections, fuel line, cables and some other various hoses need to come off the intake side. The exhaust side only the downpipe and the oxygen sensor has to be disconnected.

 
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Thanks for the tip on the intake and exhaust manifolds, that didn't even cross my mind.. all i really need to do is see the pistons for damage inspection, i just dont see how the cam turns fine but the crank wont budge..guess I will pull the top half and see whats going on though..Thanks

 
Rep Power: 200

Sounds like there is something in there or a rod is bent. Don't know for sure. Like I say have to pull apart and see. It is possible though that a valve hit and broke off in the cylinder not stopping the cam from spinning but stopping the piston from coming up. Just a thought. They are at such an angle to the pistons I wouldn't think that one breaking off would be out of the question. You should be able to verify if that IS what happened. If the valve was hanging out enough to get broke off the lifter and all will be stuck down from the other part of the valve being bent. You would only have to pull the valve cover off to see that. Running it after the timing belt went would only make it more likely that the valves are bent/broke.....

As for the original topic, don't know about shipping but you can get complete pull out engines cheap from some places. I wouldn't put one in without doing a timing belt and water pump at the very least while it was out and easy to get to though. I saw one in the for sale thread here for 300. Makes it questionable to even do your own work... I just put a head gasket only on mine a couple months ago and spent close to that. I do my own labor too. AND mine had very little warpage so I didn't even send it out to mill it....

 
Rep Power: 367

yeah, i did not remove the intake. the header i took out since its easy enough.
concerning the troubles, need to open and see. guessing is just guessing

 
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Thanks JDBones, I didn't see any valves out of place so I think I'm gonna raise it and drop the oil pan to see what can be seen from inside the block. I'm thinking bent rod or thrown main maybe. We will see when I get it out...thanks for the words of wisdom though..muchly appreciated. Will keep updated.

 
Rep Power: 200

Still can't turn it? Don't rule out oil pump or clutch/transmission area either....

 
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I was thinking that the oil pump may have went and threw a rod bearing causing it to warp and lock up but I haven't taken it apart yet to see, maybe a bent rod too. I pulled the starter and still wouldn't budge, thought it might have still been out and locked on the flywheel. I didn't think about the trans though. It does turn about the same distance a axle would though now that I think about it but given how rough it ran after dying on me I doubt it. It did turn over slowly at first and ran with a little throttle, just horrible. Guess I will see when I pull the engine. Any other ways to check the trans to see if its holding the engine still besides pulling the engine or using neutral gear?

 
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Found the problem, main bearing went and threw a rod threw the block..gouged the crank, busted the piston, bore, and block. Couldn't be worse really, only thing left good is the head....maybe...so I'll be looking for a new engine in the Cincinnati area if anyone is familiar. Thanks for the input though.
Later

 
Rep Power: 200

HOLY CRAP! Ya, definately a new one would be cost effective.....