Rep Power: 518

I'd guess the best thing you can do is remove yours and compare to the pics on ebay.
MSRP for the part number in the bulletin is $30.25 USD, so the ebay $20 is a decent asking price if they are new.
In my mind, there should be 2 separate part numbers for the two different sizes of the units. Hmmmm.

I see the units are touted as NEW at the top, but the disclaimer at the bottom says: Unless specifically stated above, all items should be considered used and untested. I do not have the equipment required to test everything that I sell. All items are AS IS. NO Warranty’s Expressed or Implied.

I never looked to see if it is possible, but can your ELD unit be opened up and resoldered?

And why, oh why does the emissions test flag you for a non-emissions code? (No answer needed, just thinking about dumb stuff.)

 
Rep Power: 0

I'm going to have a look tomorrow to compare the two and I guess go from there.

I'm confused myself as to why this problem won't allow the car to pass an emissions inspection AND why I keep being told I need to replace the whole fuse box.

I think I may just try and get it inspected elsewhere...

Thank you for your help.

 
Rep Power: 518

Better ask first before wasting everyones time doing an actual test.

Maybe they plug it in to the diagnostic port and the GOD computer flags all codes found and stamps the big red X on your form, I dunno....

 
Rep Power: 0

Ok I got the ELD out today and it definitely matches up with the smaller one from the ebay ad I linked in. I'm just going to take the damn thing directly to Honda in the morning to see if they'll sell me one, otherwise I'll have to wait a week for shipping from AZ via ebay.

I do have one concern that's starting to give me a "can o' worms" feeling with this car. The plug on the ELD as well as the male connector have a good bit of waxy white grease on them that seems fairly fresh. The pin holes for the male connector are nearly filled with it. Is this something I should be worried about? Why would anyone put grease on an electrical component such as this...

Please forgive my ignorance, just trying to wrap my head around this and hopefully get everything rectified so I can actually drive the car...

Also, one other note: there is an auxillary power line running from the right side of the 40 amp fuse to a little converter box installed just above the fuse box. I'm thinking this may have been for the subwoofers which are no longer installed on the vehicle. I've already checked the power cable for the subs to make sure there is no copper exposed (which there isn't). None of this could have caused the ELD to go bad? I know I've asked this question already, but I'm probably going to remove it all anyways as it's not even being used right now...


As always, much thanks for all the help.


Cheers

 
Rep Power: 518

Dealers here can get 95% of their parts overnight, daily stock order. IF you order before the cutoff time.

Difficult thing will be that size difference in the ebay ad. ONE of those ELD units is not the part number in the bulletin. The other one probably is. If the local dealer doesn't have one on hand to compare to, and they lock you in to the order you make and it turns out to be wrong, what then? Will they take the part back? Things to check and consider.
How about email the seller and ask which one is the actual part that matches the part number from the bulletin?

Hey, lookie here: http://estore.honda.com/
Look up your part or enter your part number, and you can search to see if your local dealer has it in stock. (I never tried it though, and I have NO IDEA if you can use this in Canada.) If you find one, call to double check the part number is in stock, then go there to have a looksee.

That is Dielectric grease. Normal. It is a type of weatherproofing from the factory. DO NOT REMOVE IT. Leave as much as possible in place.

The ELD went bad on its own. Not because of any accessories or extra wiring. It is a common problem. Why do you think there was a bulletin issued about the ELD in the first place?
The ELD is nothing more than an inductive amp meter of sorts, all it does is monitor the amperage load of the car so the alternator charging can be modified as needed.

The wire you speak of, follow it. It should be real obvious if it is not a factory wire. Remove it if you aren't using it. (Some OEM accessory foglight kits tap a set of wires in at the battery too, or maybe someone used the fusebox tap to make the connection for some accessory, so track it down before you just start yanking wires out.)