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Hello everyone!

To begin with, I am a novice at car repair. I've been having a issue with the car overheating for a while now and can't figure it out.

Basically, the car overheats and has been doing so in increasing amounts over the past few months. Early on, the gauge needle would rise just a few notches and stay there and nowadays, it shoots all the way to the top!

Symptoms:

On city driving, it overheats less frequently. Does so when heavy traffic and been driving for a while (over an hour). This has remained the same till today. In the early days, when I drove on the highway, no issues at all and the needle is in the right place. However, when I start slowing down and take an exit and start city driving, the needle starts rising. The needle rises very quick and then when I get back on the highway and start speeding up, all of a sudden, the needle comes back to normal in around 3-4 seconds!...quite quick. When I slow down again, it heats up again. Last week, I was driving on the highway, summer day in chicago and after 20 mins on the highway with a/c on medium blast, the temp started rising to a point where I had to stop on the side of the road. I opened the hood and noticed a lot of boiling noses in the Coolant overflow reservoir tank and coolant spewing/spraying out of the plastic reservoir bottle cap. Around 30 mins later I refilled the radiator which was very low in fluid.

Over these past few months, I always noticed coolant splashes around the area of the plastic reservoir bottle cap which I had to wipe down and a small puddle of water under the plastic bottle area only AFTER i have driven the car and parked it in the driveway. Never when the car is cold and have just topped off the fluid and left the car parked. I do not see any dried or wet coolant marks around the radiator or the hoses or any other area except for under the plastic bottle area and around the plastic bottle cap.

So obviously I feel the reservoir bottle cap/bottle is faulty and needs replacing. Today when the car was cold, I removed the bottle (which was empty) and filled it compeltely with all the hoses attached to check for leaks. None noticed. However, when I tilted the filled bottle with the cap secured, water started falling out from the cap area as if it was a loose bottle cap, even though it was as tight as it could be (which really isnt super tigtht because overtightening just loosens the cap again - sort of an infinite loop of tight and loose)

I know this could be a cheap fix, but i wanted to see if you guys also feel it is the bottle that needs to be replaced.

Also, last week when it overheated and I was refilling the radiator again, I filled it to the top, then started the engine and waited with the main radiator cap off. I noticed after 10-12 mins, the bubbles in the coolant started increasing and the fluid was quite hot. It was not boiling bubbling...but just one one bubble after every 2-3 seconds. Also, the main radiator cap has been replaced few weeks ago but did not fix again. Also, the fans did not start during the idling but the temperature gauge did not rise either at all.

Everytime when the car overheated I switched it off so never noticed if the fans actually come on when the car is heating or not. Howeverm, when I switch on the a/c, the fans do work.

What do you guys think?? cheap fix (changing bottle) or something more important? I keep googling this and how found similar symptoms with ppl saying its a bad head gasket (due to the slight bubbling of coolant when car idled for a while with radiator cap off) so not too sure.


Thanks in advance guys...you guys sure a big help to all us beginners!

 
Rep Power: 200

The bottle is fine, they are not sealed and not meant to be. The hose that goes to the radiator from it goes to the bottom of it. When your cars hot and it expands it goes into the bottle, when it cools and contracts it sucks coolant back in to keep it full and air out. This is known as a closed system and they never let coolant onto the ground provided everything if right. First order of business is to make sure your fans DO come on. Sounds like that was the issue before this one, slow overheat, fast more air through the radiator and no overheat. THAT is fan switch. NOW it sounds like you have other problems. Feel the radiator hoses and make sure they are both hot and the same pressure about. If not, put a thermostat in it. Are you sure the bubbles are bubbles and NOT just flow? If you have bubbles, sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but you have advanced head gasket leakage. If it is to the point of making bubbles, good chance your head is warped, not just the gasket.....

 
Rep Power: 0

so let me explain the bubbling I saw.

I topped of the radiator tank and overflow bottle, then switched on the car and let it idle for 10-15 mins. As the car temp raised (never above normal), every 2-3 seconds, the coolant level in the radiator tank dropped a centimetre or so and a small amount of air popped out (looked like a bubble of air escaping out). It was never continuosly bubbling or boiling.

The temp of the coolant was very hot to touch but not boiling. the hose leading from the main radiator tank opening was also hot and firm feeling when squeezed it.

The coolant in the reservoir tank was not boiling or bubbling or spewing out of the plastic reservoir bottle at this point.


So, to confirm, it is completely normal for coolant to leak out when tilted when i had removed it? as if the bottle cap was loose? Replacing the reservoir tank wont change anything?

Just so I know what's happening, why was the coolant spewing out of the plastic reservoir cap when the car was overheating?

How do I test if the fan switch is working or not? Can I do this myself (and if so how?) or do I need to take it to a mechanic?

Also, you mentioned check both hoses for temperature and pressure. One hose is the hose attached to the main radiator cap. What is the other hose?

Thanks for the reply and help. Really appreciate it!

 
Rep Power: 200

Yes, the tank is fine. It spews out when overheating because its supposed too. The loose fitting cap is designed to let too much coolant off without popping the cap off. Like I said, the hose to radiator has a molded part of the tank that connects the hose to the bottom of the tank. The fill line is to make sure that the tube NEVER sees air, only coolant. The other hose is on the other side of the thermostat. The flow of the system is backwards of others, it goes through the the radiator BEFORE it hits the thermostat. That is why it takes forever for it to warm up to the point of turning the fans on. A bubble air here and there is not a problem. That is probably just the opening and closing of the thermostat. If you are letting it idle to get the fans on, it might idle 10 or 15 minutes. Obviously if it overheats and they still aren't on, they aren't working. I don't know the on and off temps off hand, but roughly probably on around 220 and off around 195*

 
Rep Power: 0

Ok...thanks for the confirmation.

So what do you suggest I do at this point?

 
Rep Power: 200

I don't think it would be fans since it happens going down the highway now too, but first make sure its full of coolant and you got all the air out of it and let it idle till it warms up and make sure they are coming on. We will go from there then..

 
Rep Power: 0

ok...so left the car running for 35 minutes including a 10 minute drive down the street keeping the rpm at 2500 to 3500 rpm (manual transmission). The fans did start turning on after 25 minutes once I parked the car after the test drive. The temperature guage has not moved past normal.

Before drive:

The car was first idling for 15 minutes before I drove it down the street. There was no leaks noticed, the upper was warm to hot after a few minutes and the lower hose became warm to hot after around 10 minutes (the lower hose got warm/hot after the upper hose got warm/hot). There were not bubbling noises from the reservoir bottle or coolant spewing either.


After drive:

I opened the hood and saw the fans intermittently turning on and off. Both work. The area around the plastic reservoir bottle cap is completely wet. No bubbling or boiling coolant but approx. 1 cup worth of coolant is around that area and leaking down. Both hoses seem dry and without leak.


What do you think?

 
Rep Power: 253

Here is what you should do:

First check your upper radiator hose when the car is hot. Is it hard and pressurized or its is soft when you squeeze it?
If its soft replace your radiator cap, if it remains soft once you heat the car up with the new cap, then replace the thermostat.

Also bleed your cooling system. Turn the dial indicator to red. Start the car till its warm, until the fans turn on at least once. Shut the car. If you can try to park with the nose of your car up at the highest point (On a hill) allow it to cool a bit then open the radiator cap. Once its open, fill it to the top of the radiator cap. Fill your resiviour to max once the car is completely cooled.

If you are still overheating after all of that I would bring it to a mechanic to get a combustion test done to your coolant to see if its a headgasket problem.

 
Rep Power: 0

Ok I will try that.

I have already changed the radiator cap few weeks ago btw.

The top hose does seem more stiff when the car is hot then when it's cold for sure. It's not as hard as a rock but stiffer than when its cold for sure.


Just a quick question...how do I turn the dial indicator to red?

I will do this tomorrow and post back. Also just to confirm, I drain all the coolant and then let the car idle until the fans turn on once right?

 
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I also completely forgot to mention this!...

all this while, the coolant reservoir tank was decently clean from inside. After last week when it overheated and coolant was bubbling out of the reservoir tank, I now see the inside of the bottle lined with this black, sticky, greasy type of gunk layer. It smells exactly like charcoal lighter fluid you spray on charcoal to light up the coals.

Does that help?

 
Rep Power: 253

The top hose, or any of the hoses are supposed to be pressurized (Hard) when the car is hot only. When the car is cold they are not pressurized thus they are not hard.

I meant turn the heat indicator on your dash to hot so that way you can get any air our of your heater core.

No you dont drain any coolant out. You just are adding coolant to your radiator to displace any air that may be inside your coolant system.

-set dial to hot on dash
-take off rad cap
-fill till you cant fill no more.
-Install the rad cap
-Start the motor till the fans come on 2 times
-Let car cool (so coolant dont burn you)
-remove cap and top off
*Its best to do this when your nose of the car is up high, but definately dont do it parked downwards on a hill.


Just curious is your heat hot? I know you probablty arent using it this time of the year but if its not hot. Then more then likely you still have air in your system. But it could also be a blown headgasket. You really wont know till all air is bled out.

 
Rep Power: 253

Hmm, I am not sure. Have you ever used any sort of "Stop Leak" product such as this?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcs...6_pri_larg.jpg
Are you noticing any loss of oil on your dipstick, or maybe possibly any discoloring in your oil?

 
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No I have not used any radiator stop leak or any such products. I've had the car for around 1.5 years and havent put anything like that in there.

About the heat, it does not work in low speeds. But when car goes over 40-50 mph, it blows hot air fine. When the car is overheating, it blows super hot heat. I always thought that was a sign of low coolant though.

When I turn the heat dial to the red setting (hottest) and do this bleeding process, shall I keep the heater running or switched off?

 
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I just checked the oil level as well. Seems normal and no discolouration or smell. No signs of water in there as well.

Will this blown head gasket be a major repair and very expensive?

 
Rep Power: 253

Well when you are filling it the car is going to be off. So its pointless to have the heater running. All that is, is a blower motor and it has no effect on what your trying to accomplish. However if you want, the second and final time you go to fill it you can keep the car running with the heat at hot and the blower on to see if your getting heat. If I had to be completely honest I would say that your headgasket is bad. But I dont want to jump to conclusions with out proper diagnostics.

If after you finish properly bleeding and it still overheats you may want to bring it to a mechanic. Or perhaps pick yourself up this
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-75500-Co.../dp/B0007ZDRUI

It really comes down to how motivated/mechanically inclined you are.

 
Rep Power: 253

I personally have done a timing belt and many other things on cars and I myself didnt feel inclined to do my head gasket myself. However if you are expirienced or have a knowledgable friend it can easily be done. I would say the job would be about a 9 from a 1-10 scale. It involves removing the head of the motor(hence headgasket) Typically a job like this can range from maybe 1000-1500 with parts included. I would guess parts would be closer to 300 dollar range if you did it yourself. I am just guessing on parts price since I havent done it myself.

On a side note, it would be very wise to have the head checked to see if its warped and pressure tested in reguards to specs.

 
Rep Power: 0

ok...i will try bleeding it tomorrow and see if it still overheats.

So can we safely say it is not the thermostat that is faulty?

 
Rep Power: 367

did not try reading all, but most of the items are covered in here (maybe there are some more details in here, we might try to add to the main thread.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...reference.html
you can also check the gases in coolant test in there for blown head gasket

If head gasket, here are 2 threads about:
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...arts-list.html

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...-belt-diy.html

And no, it's not for the faint of heart to do. I am in the middle and swearing some of the bolts.

 
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I did the bleeding test today morning using the instructions you posted. Had to add around 100-150 ml of coolant during the process into the main radiator. Nothing more. Filled up the reservoir tank to its appropriate level as well.

Drove it after a few hours for around 15-20 mins - city driving (40mph max). Car did not overheat and just stayed at normal level. When I returned and popped the hood, there was coolant splashed around the reservoir tank cap area again just like before. So the bleeding did not change anything I guess.

I went to autozone and bought a new duralast thermostat rated at 170 degrees opening temp and will install it now. Decided to that since its a good starting point and easy to do. I also rented a cooling system pressure tester and will test the system for pressure drop before I change the thermostat. I will post the results once done.


What's your thoughts?

 
Rep Power: 367

same as post above - check the first link. also, don't get autozone thermos. recommend using honda. aftermarket thermo does not work too well in our cars.

 
Rep Power: 0

It wont hurt to replace the thermostat if it hasn't been done. If that doesn't work I would definitely suggest taking it to a mechanic and having a combustion test done to see if you have a bad head or head gasket before any more damage occurs. Good luck and hope all works out for ya!