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Hi all, recently got an engine knocking noise on my '05 civic ex-se after getting stucking in a field of snow during a snow storm. Did the usual back and forth rocking from 1st to reverse a few times and after not having much luck getting out, tried to dig the car out at the tires to get it to plow through the few fee of snow. Got back in the car and tried driving, after a few more miserable attempts to drive out of the snow, the engine started to give off this ugly knocking sound. Checked the oil, about 2 quarts were gone. Refilled it. Engine ran about the same maybe a bit smoother since it didn't stall afterwards, clanking was still present. Drove it a few more miles not knowing what the problem was, took it one of my mechanic buddies who said it's my engine making the noise, but can't really pinpoint what the noise is as it was in the evening hours and it was dark out to see anything. Told me to come by his auto shop the next day. I took it to the shop he works at, as soon as I pulled up the car, one of his coworkers said I'm wasting my time and money trying to attempt at fixing the problem, the problem he said is a spun bearing. So automatically I fall into this oblivious trance where I'm convinced that my car is done for and the shocking part is I still owe almost $7,000 in finance on it. Since then I haven't been able to reach either one of my mechanic friends, and it's as if as soon as they hear possible engine damage problems or spun bearing or rod knock, they stopped picking up their phone. So now I have to ask some of my fellow civic owners who may have come accross such a problem. Here's how my car runs. It starts up, has a bit of a hard time starting up, not to the point where I have to keep the key turned for a few seconds or anything, but it feels like the engine has a rough start up. Once started, if clutch pedal is pressed in for several seconds it starts to loose idle or running roughly nearly stalling, if I take my foot off clutch it revs fine while engine is still cold @ around 1400rpms, once revs reach a little below 1000, engine starts to run a bit funny, as if trying to keep away from stalling, and the lower the revs go while the engine warms up the rougher it runs, once revs are noticeably below 1000 the engine starts to shake more and more, sometimes losing idle to the point of stall and sometimes to severly low revs and then stall. I recently poured some stp fuel injector cleaner and added a bit of engine oil. Engine runs a bit smoother again. Also while engine runs, regardless of rpms, if I hit the accelerator the clanking gets louder as the revs increase, I'm afraid to go too much past 2000rpms but it doesn't sound pleasant, when the accelerator is released revs don't return to idle, instead the engine stalls as the revs fall past idle norm. If the engine is freshly cold and I slightly rev it, the revs somewhat return to rev norm, not too smoothly though. I still have the stock D17a2 block in my car. Changed the head gasket recently, so coolant levels are fine, not boiling over or anything, had the valves adjusted as well. Most major parts were replaced that need replacement, ac compressor, timing belt, water pump. Not so sure about the sensors. But my check engine just recently went on, it didn't go on when the clanking started or for the next several days, just recently a couple of startups ago, as I do start it up here and there hoping one of these people would have the decency to call me back and take a look at my car for once. So if someone can help me pinpoint or suggest something about this issue, please let me know. I miss my car and there's no way in hell I'm bringing it to a local mechanic shop for an engine swap as it'll cost an arm and a leg for the swap. One of my buddies works on engines and transmissions and has a lift and space to do this kind of work, he just seems to ignore my calls lately. I mean he told me he can do it no probs, even said it'll cost about $600 vs say at least $1500 which I don't have at a local shop. By the way would a non-vtech D17a1 engine work with a D17a2 head? I really don't mind it not having vtech at this point as I just need it running, that is if the engine swap is the the least cost efficient way out. I'm pretty broke at the moment but I could afford a used block with some milage in good condition with the $600. But before I come to the trusty conclusion that it is in fact my engine gone bad, is there any cheaper way to fix it before dropping a Grand on engine and labor? is it cheaper to change bearings and/or rod. Sorry if i sound engine illiterate, which I am, barely work on my car ever except for some less experience needy stuff, but any help or advice is very greatly appreciated. The engine has 121,680mi on the odometer, and seems to consume oil last three oil checks if that helps possibly to pinpoint anything about the noise occuring. I also do smell gasoline fumes at startup here and there, don't know if that's normal, but there's no abnormal smoke from the exhaust or anything odd like that, don't see any leaks anywhere either.

 
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It's 4:30am here, so I seriously need to sleep, but I'll give you a quick answer.

If you were down two quarts of oil you were already seriously beating on your motor, add to that the extremely high reving you would have been doing to get out of the snow drifts and a spun bearing makes complete sense. A spun bearing means you'll need to do a complete rebuild of the bottom end, but thats not worthwhile in my opinion. I'd suggest you buy another motor, the D17a2 is only $500-700 and you can probably find one on craigslist cheap if not the local junk yard. The labour to swap in the motor should be less than $500.

In the morning I'll actually read the essay you wrote, but that should give you an idea for now.

 
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Thank you very much for the quick answer. I've asked around a few guys at work and some had that problem and did say it sounds like engine is losing compression due to overworked pistons creating that infamous clank clank sound/rattle and the loss of idle compression after accelerator is struck and released allowing revs to fall to 0/stall. Ok so still no luck with mechanics, but hell, I went out today and got me a 7th gen civic repair manual, found all the details I'll need on replacing the engine. Even found a nice low miles (45K) D17a2 block with head for $450, picking it up tomorrow or saturday. I'll just need to rent a hoist and get some jack stands and possibly wrenches if I'm missing any. I read the whole procedure on how to replace the engine, but since it says to refer to many sections for details on certain parts of removals from the engine before lifting it out. Would you or anyone else reading this who's had experience replacing engines in civics prefereably a 7th gen (01-05), be able to give me helpful tips before and while attempting this procedure. I know I should work with a friend or someone else to help with the job as it is a pretty lengthy and strenuous job, doesn't sound too hard but I can imagine it can be somewhat dangerous if attempted by myself. Ok one thing I still didn't quite understand was does the block come out from the top side or do I lower the engine underneath the vehicle and then slide it out on an engine stand? that part sounded a bit unclear in the procedure instructions. Also what additional stuff would I need besides coolant and engine oil w/filter? Any specific sized wrenches (types), screw drivers?, any other tools I haven't mentioned to remove anything else necessary before taking out the block?, any fluids such as rust or corosion removers to get the screws on and off, any lubes needed when reassembling the parts/screws. What else is a good idea to replace since I'll be replacing my engine? Clutch, spark plugs, timing belt, water pump? My clutch is pretty worn starting to feel soft, but hey it's still stock from 2005 when I purchased the car new. As far as other parts I'm not sure, I'm guessing it would be a good idea to replace the water pump and timing belt as well since I'm already there and the last time I've changed them was at 85K, now at 121,860. Don't know if any sensors should be changed as well. I'm sure spark plugs are a good idea to replace. Anything else? let me know. I'll hopefully will be ready to do this if not saturday then monday or tuesday. Thanks again for any suggestions or advice, always appreciate any help I can get.

 
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Dude, hit the enter key to make some paragraphs and make your posts more reader friendly and people will read them.

 
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Good luck with the engine transplant! Let us know how it goes. I've had the engine almost all the way out of my 7th gen. It will come out from the top. May have to remove the hood for clearance.

I had all the mounts undone and had to lift the engine to create access to drill out a buggered up bolt. I remember the rear engine mount was a pain to reinstall.

It's possible that you sucked snow into your intake when you were stuck. The front ends of these cars are pretty low and when you're stuck in snow it's easy for some snow to be pushed up and near the intake area. Revving the engine would create enough suction to ingest some through the intake, more so if you have an aftermarket. Water in your engine could have partially hydro locked it and bent a rod or 2. Either way, definitely need a new engine.

See if you can do a compression check on the replacement engine before buying it.