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^ concur

 
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^ Post *****

 
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as if you're surprised

 
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LoL... not at all.. I think this forum is getting better.

 
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a little bit. Get your post count up yet? You're slacking

 
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It's hard to keep up cuz every time I post something you post after me... ya know...

 
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Double post FTW...

 
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took off the heat sheild last night and got a vid. no difference. I also checked my spark plugs and turns out a few of them were really loose. like... hand tight. Did these have to be touched when the valve adjustment were made?

I'll upload the vid when i get off work..

 
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Did you make sure to torque them down when you installed the plugs?

 
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Honestly, I bet your manifold is not seating against the head properly because of the broken bolt. This is random but does anyone else have a problem with the hood prop rattling against the battery tie down? I have the front esmm installed and was getting a mad rattle at idle. Put a piece of foam down to hold the prop stable and the rattle went away.

 
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Thats what im thinking too. im gonna get new gaskets and get it to the local garage and see if they can get that broken bolt out, put it all back together and see what happens... in the meantime im gonna order a new header off ebay and if this dont work that'll be my next shot.

 
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They will be able to get it out, but with all the corrosion you have there it's going to be a bitch If your changing the header they will probably have to remove all the studs and replace them, because I doubt the nuts are going to come off without stripping.

 
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yeah i kinda figured lol, the bolts not broke flush to the head so my mechanic said he thinks he can get it out. he thinks where the bolts broke the manifold isn't flush to the head so it blew a hole through the gasket, making this racket. which sounds right to mee. hopefully lol

 
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Once you pull the manifold off you will have a quarter inch ( i think ) of stud to grab. So what most places will do is weld a nut onto the stud and then it should come out easy because you can just remove the stud via. the nut. That's what I had to do when I removed mine and put it back because I had to cut two studs flush with the manifold. You gotta remember the manny is a quarter or half inch thick (can't remember), and there is a stud going through it.

 
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i got all the parts ordered except i can't track down the manifold studs cuz the garage dont know the size of them, would anybody know off hand?

 
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Get them from the dealership, they only cost a few bucks and deliver them to the garage. Assuming that you have another car. The dealership will give you the right ones.

 
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so 3 new manifold studs, gaskets and labour came to $140... and the ticking still is there not as loud as before but still. what else could it be? ugh

 
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Probably something internal Check your belts and the tension that's on them... the next step is to get a mechanics stethoscope and see if you can pinpoint where the sound is coming from. To prevent any more unnecessary spending.

 
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Its driving me insane. Im going to order a cel eliminator and ebay header hopefully next week, or try find a ex downpipe and do the swap. To my knowledge the timing belt haven't been done on this thing either if that would have something to do with this. im not sure, cars sitting on 152,000km's now..

 
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It is 100% your manifold. When your car runs for a while with a missing/sheered off bolt it will slowly warp the manifold mounting surface from getting hot and cold so amny time......(I know from experience). Get the bolt fixed and I would invest in a header like you said. Or find one in a junk yard. But it is deff the manifold.

 
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success, sort of.

The ebay header showed up today, got it installed and no more ticking. They did however send me the wrong gasket and the end of the header don't seem to fit right in the downpipe.. I got another gasket and bolted it up but the primary oxygen sensor wire is too short and won't reach the plugin... what do i do about this?

 
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Cut and extend the wires.

 
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So, it turned out to be your headers and not your manifold? Did you check your old header for cracks or what not?

Post some pics of the old header if you don't mind cuz I'm experiencing the same ticking noise during the early mornings and usually around low rpms when accelerating.

 
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The ticking was from the manifold, i replaced the manifold with a ebay header.. which has been on for 3 weeks now and no trouble so far.. the old manifold i couldn't see any cracks, but my mechanic figures where one of the studs for the bolts was broke it caused the manifold to warp over time causing the leak, and the ticking..the car is throwing a cel now because i don't have a cel eliminator, but thats on my next list of things to do after i get the front wheel bearings replaced : /