Intercooler

The shop guy said my front right is making noise and needs replaced. It has made noise since I got the car with 32k miles on it. I thought it was just the way it is... like a hum that is engine or something. He insisted it is a bad hub bearing and is $200 to replace including the part. Bad news is he said sometimes the hub is toast too. So I like to do things myself. How do I get the old bearing out? Is it pressed in? How can I tell if the hub is shot and needs replaced? Only place that has the hub is Majestic or a dealer at $88.00. Does this mean the left hub/bearing isn't far behind?

Krieger

it shouldn't make any noise afaik.


umm... unless u know how to properly get in out and then put new ones back in and greased and crap, id pay someone to do it.

call around and get quotes.

greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

dude, u cannot do this urself, unless u have a press, which i doubt u do. this is no small process, and 200 isnt that bad for all the work involved, just do it, it can lock up, and screw a lot more up than just the hub, just have them replace the bearing, also known as a wheel bearing, and just because one goes bad, doesnt mean the other will, replace the bad one, and call it a day

WannaBFast

iTrader: (16)

you will just need a 20ton bearing press and necessary adaptors to replace this as well as snap ring pliers, ball joint separators, as well as a lot of patience, i work at honda and i ended up replacing my knuckle as well cause the ball joint was going bad too, kinda nice to have all the parts readily availible, a noisy bearing will get really loud around 40mph and at about 60mph will start to make a harmonic noise that may sound like a tire noise

ive seen aftermarket(autozone, napa, o'reily's) bearings go bad pretty quick, altho depending on the manufacturer it could be the same company that makes the honda bearings too, however i wouldnt risk it.. also IF they take the bearing off ON the car, might be simpler, however they may damage the abs sensor if they arent careful, if they DO take it off the car, they may damage the ball joint or lower control arm with a pickle fork or a hammer

from start to finish should really take about an hour, unless you are gonna do an alignment afterwards, which i HIGHLY recommend

thats my opinion and im sticking to it

Intercooler

We have a full shop.. air tools, lift, bearing race tools, press, etc... all tools needed. Wonder if a DIY on this exists so we can get a feel for how it goes?

WannaBFast

iTrader: (16)

well its fairly simple once you got everything in place.. pm me your email so i can get you the honda service manual...

ok i lied, the honda service manual is way more complicated than it should be...

step 1:
lift car, remove tire, remove caliper, remove disk

step 2:
hang caliper to reduce stress on brake hose, remove abs sensor if applicable tie out of way

step 3:
remove castle nut holding lower ball joint in place, and put it back on enough so the top is even with the ball joint threads to keep the ball joint from mushrooming for next step, using a balljoint removal/popper tool, press the ball joint away from the lower control arm

step 4:
unstake the axel nut, and remove with a 32mm socket, impact or otherwise,(honda service manual says discard this nut and use a new one.. but you dont have to) you should be able to slide the axel out at this point from the hub

step 5:
remove the 2 bolts holding the strut to the knuckle, careful not to drop the knuckle, or you could just keep the lower ball joint attached at this point and not remove the axle, but once this is done, the whole knuckle can come out

order of assembly, yea i know im jumping ahead on this one but its important to note how things are pressed in and off

first thing to remove after you get it on the bearing press is the hub(the part with the wheel studs), this is done by pressing in from the axel side outward while supporting the knuckle, take care not to have anything go into the hub as it could damage the splines and make for putting the axel back in more work than you would want, the inner bearing race most always is attached to it when you are pressing it out, dont worry this is normal, now when this is done you have a little snap ring on the outer side of the bearing facing the hub, you will need a snap ring plier to get this out, sometimes they are rusted in which case soak with pb blaster and let it sit for about 10 minutes, then get a hammer and chisel and hit one side of the snap ring along the groove, this should get it to move enough to remove the ring

NEXT you can now press the rest of the bearing out
then before you even THINK about putting the new bearing in... make sure the inside of the knuckle is clean and the ball joint is still good and has no play...

then either use anti-sieze paste or spray some lubricant in the smooth part of the knuckle.. this ensures the bearing goes in easier

step 6:
remove the inner race from the hub either by CAREFULLY cutting a slot and using a hammer and chisel not to cut into the hub, or use the bearing press and proper garb like what you did above when removing it from the original bearing

step 7:
carefully place the bearing(black seal up) into the knuckle that you have sprayed with lubricant, you can probablly spray the bearing too if you like, and while supporting the back of the knuckle(can be tricky if you dont have the right spacers and stuff as its not entirely flat) press the new bearing in with the bearing press

step 8:
make sure everything is as far down as you can get it, and that the bearing isnt in there crooked, install the snap ring you removed previously, and spray the inside of the bearing with more lubricant, either blaster or more anti-sieze

step 9:
make sure the hub is spindle is nice and clean where it goes into the bearing, use an emory cloth to make it nice and shiney, and again use more lubricant here, now will want to redo the spacer stacking so that it supports the back of the bearing instead of the knuckle, this keeps the hub from pushing the new bearing race out as you are pressing it in... IMPORTANT.... but go ahead and press the hub back into place

step 10:
put everything back into the car, make everything tight.. and dont forget to tighten the axle nut down cause it could come loose and damage the bearing again.. wouldnt wanna do that all over again..

utahbmxer

I replaced mine during the summer, made a hell of a difference and quieter ride. If you got a press and a die grinder (even a dremel works), it's pretty easy. I had my buddy hold the knuckle while I used a brass drift to drive the hub out of the bearing with a sledge hammer. Took a few good whacks and it fell out. Then to get the inner race off, you grind a notch in the race deep enough but not into the hub. Then take a chisel and smack it good to crack it the rest of the way, it will slide right off. Then you press a new bearing into the knuckle, and then press the hub in. (make sure to get the snap ring in before the hub, I got everything back on the car once and realized I forgot one of the snap rings.. I was preoccupied. )

Anyways, $200 doesn't seem that bad if that's parts and labor.

SpecialKPB

I have shaking in my steering wheel at about 45mph and up; this was with old set of rims; got a 4wheel alignment (twice) and had all tires balanced something like 12 times - not all in the same day mind you. shop told me the rims were not a perfect circle; so I got rid of them and bought brand new ones; problem still exists but its much less "shakey" at 45mph and above. I JUST put my Steelies/Snows on and noticed I have very very very minor shake still present in the steering wheel at 45mph and above. Would this shake be from bad rims ( 2nd time around ) or from a Wheel bearing/hub as mentioned above? I just want this problem solved before my car shakes apart plus thruway driving sucks witha shake; thanks in advance for anyone with any advice or comments!!

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

generally its caused by rims, but oem rim should not shake like aftermarket does, unless its slightly bent or not properly balanced. bearing does not really affect that.

WannaBFast

iTrader: (16)

the shake at 45+ is usually caused by tires with flat spots, even though the wheels may be straight, the tires can cause a HUGE vibration even tho its balanced, also if the wheels arent perfectly centered via hubcentric rings it can also cause vibration

mugenman

iTrader: (12)

200 is a steal. i say go for it. make sure they are using oem honda parts. ive seen those cheapo aftermarket bearing go bad quick. you might pay a bit more but its worth it

Intercooler

Didn't get the Honda bearing and it was $35. Labor was $125 so for $160 it was done and is night and day now.