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Testing a Crank Position Sensor?

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Old 03-18-2008
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Testing a Crank Position Sensor?

Does anyone have a procedure for testing the Crank Position Sensor? I did a timing belt change this past weekend and threw a code yesterday morning as the car went into safe mode. Pulled the code and its for the CPS. I haven't gotten in there yet, but I'm hoping I just forgot to hook it back up. In the event it might be bad, I'd love to be able to test this sensor before replacing it blindly.

TIA
Old 03-18-2008
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Re: Testing a Crank Position Sensor?

Yeah man, I'll get one to you tonight when I get home from work as I don't have access to it here. Give me about 6 hours.
Old 03-18-2008
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Re: Testing a Crank Position Sensor?

Excellent, I'll be waiting.

Thanks!
Old 03-18-2008
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Re: Testing a Crank Position Sensor?

What exact code are you throwing? P1381, P1382, P1359? There are several to choose from and I would need the specific code to really drill down into the troubleshooting procedure.
Old 03-18-2008
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Re: Testing a Crank Position Sensor?

Here you go man, complete with pics!


DTC P0335: CKP Sensor No Signal, DTC P0336: CKP Sensor Intermittent
Interruption, DTC P0339: CKP Sensor Intermittent Interruption
NOTE:Information marked with an asterisk (*) applies to '01-03 models.
Information marked with an asterisk (**) applies to '04 model.


1. Reset the ECM/PCM (see HOW TO RESET THE ECM/PCM ).

2. Start the engine.

Is DTC P0335 and/or P0336* (P0339)* indicated?
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the CKP sensor and at the ECM/PCM.

3. Turn the ignition switch OFF.

4. Disconnect the CKP sensor 3P connector.

5. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

6. Measure voltage between CKP sensor 3P connector terminal No. 3 and body ground.

Fig 82


Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Repair open in the wire between PGM-FI main relay 1 and the CKP sensor.

7. Measure voltage between CKP sensor 3P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground.

Fig 83


Is there about 5 V?
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Go to step 10.

8. Measure voltage between CKP sensor 3P connector terminals No. 2 and No. 3.

Fig. 84


Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the CKP sensor and G101.

9. Substitute a known-good CKP sensor and recheck.

10. Is DTC P0335 and/or P0336 (P0339) indicated?

YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck (see HOW TO SUBSTITUTE OR REPLACE THE ECM/PCM ). If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM.
NO - Replace the original CKP sensor (see CKP Sensor Replacement ).
Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminal A7 and body ground.

Fig. 85


Is there about 5 V?
YES - Repair open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A7) and the CKP sensor.
NO - Go to step 11.

11. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
12. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (31P).
13. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal A7 and body ground.

Fig. 86


Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A7) and the CKP sensor.
NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or
substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck (see HOW TO SUBSTITUTE OR
REPLACE THE ECM/PCM ). If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good
ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM.
Old 03-18-2008
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Re: Testing a Crank Position Sensor?

hey clint!


remember my misfire?

it was a blown head gaskett on my STOCK civic...
Old 03-18-2008
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Re: Testing a Crank Position Sensor?

LOL - that's fantastic man! I wish someone would come out with a cast iron block for the Civic. Would make things soooo much easier. Bet that was fun changing out. It's my favorite repair to do on these cars!
Old 03-18-2008
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Re: Testing a Crank Position Sensor?

lol the H22 engine from the prelude has a cast iron block
Old 03-19-2008
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Re: Testing a Crank Position Sensor?

Thanks for the great instructions. Didn't end up needing them though. I put the car up on my lift and I was able to unplug the connector without removing anything. Contacts must have been dirty, as I sprayed some brake cleaner on each end and its now working fine, no more codes!
Old 03-19-2008
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Re: Testing a Crank Position Sensor?

Good to go! Rep is a nice way of saying thanks!
Old 08-06-2012
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Re: Testing a Crank Position Sensor?

Anyone has a diagram for testing the Camshaft position sensor on Civic 2001?

Thanks
Old 08-06-2012
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Re: Testing a Crank Position Sensor?

Anyone?
Old 08-07-2012
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Re: Testing a Crank Position Sensor?

Originally Posted by emicha
Anyone?
Reference connector pictures above. Same type connector for Crank sensor (TDC sensor). Same connector for ECM/PCM except pin 26.

PGM-FI System

DTC Troubleshooting (cont'd)

11-234


DTC 8: TDC Sensor Circuit Malfunction
  1. Reset the ECM/PCM (see page 11-168).
  2. Start the engine.
Is the MIL on and does it indicate DTC 8?
YES
- Go to step 3.
NO
- Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose wires at the TDC sensor and at the ECM/PCM.

  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  2. Disconnect the TDC sensor 3P connector.
  3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
  4. Measure voltage between the TDC sensor 3P connector terminal No. 3 and body ground.

TDC SENSOR 3P CONNECTOR

Wire side of female terminals

Is there battery voltage?
YES
- Go to step 7.
NO
- Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay 1 and the TDC sensor.

  1. Measure voltage between the TDC sensor 3P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.

TDC SENSOR 3P CONNECTOR

Wire side of female terminals

Is there about 5 V?
YES
- Go to step 8.
NO
- Go to step 10.

  1. Measure voltage between the TDC sensor 3P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 3.

TDC SENSOR 3P CONNECTOR

Wire side of female terminals

Is there battery voltage?
YES
- Go to step 9.
NO
- Repair open in the wire between the TDC sensor and G101.

  1. Substitute a known-good TDC sensor and recheck.
Is the MIL on and does it indicate DTC 8?
YES
- Substitute a known-good ECM/PCM and recheck. If symptom/indication goes away, replace the original ECM/PCM.
NO
- Replace the original TDC sensor.


PGM-FI System

DTC Troubleshooting (cont'd)

11-235


  1. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminal A26 and body ground.

ECM/PCM CONNECTOR A (31P)

Wire side of female terminals

Is there about 5 V?
YES
- Repair open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A26) and TDC sensor.
NO
- Go to step 11.

  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  2. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (31P).
  3. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal A26 and body ground.

ECM/PCM CONNECTOR A (31P)

Wire side of female terminals

Is there continuity?

YES
- Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A26) and the TDC sensor.
NO
- Substitute a known-good ECM/PCM and recheck. If symptom/indication goes away, replace the original ECM/PCM.



Last edited by Matt_75; 08-07-2012 at 01:17 AM.
Old 10-13-2018
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Re: Testing a Crank Position Sensor?

So I have made it to step six of testing the CKP sensor and I am reading 12 Volts with just the ignition turned on, 14 with the engine running and then once I checked what voltage is coming from the sensor, I get 1 volt. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this? The engine is a used replacement engine and I have already tried the sensor that came off my old engine and an aftermarket part. All three leave me with the same code, so I am assuming it is somewhere in the wiring and not the sensor itself.
Old 10-14-2018
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Re: Testing a Crank Position Sensor?

Well considering we recently had a user that actually had a couple index teeth on the sprocket broken there is lots to verify.

How are you sure the sprocket was put on correctly.

Did you use 1/3 can electrical contact cleaner on the sensor and connector.

Is it a actual Honda sensor from a Honda dealer?

Are any of the index teeth bent, mangled , missing.

Did you retest with another actual Honda Dealer supplied part, again using liberal amounts contact cleaner.

The sensor detects the change of magnet field as the teeth come by. Magnets when heated and shaken lose their mojo and that’s why these sensors fail. It’s not a electrical failure but a magnet power failure.

Again order is
check teeth, clean contacts, test for voltage and ground, replace with actual dealer part.

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