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I just finished installing:

A Crawer stage2 Cam
A AEM Tru-Time Cam gear (set a 0)
A ACT Clutch HC5-XTSS and a Pro Street XF Flywheel 8lbs

2005 civic ex coupe.

My Car starts fine.
and it Idles until it gets warmed up. The RPM drop real low. Then if I Rev the engine the RPMs will go up then drop to 0 and the car will stall

???

 
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sounds like ur air to fuel mixture is off for ut at temperature idle, u prolly need a retune after the cam install

 
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I also have a APEXi Vtec controller that was install a while back. Only mod on my car then was a AEM shortram.

I never got it tuned.

Could the controller have any thing to do with it?

Or this is just normal for the mods I have and I need to face the fact that it is time to get it on a Dyno.

 
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Yes she needs to go on to the dyno. Did you upgrade the valve springs and retainers? The Stage 2 needs them.

Simply put, like Adam said, you need to get it tuned. With the new lift and duration on that cam, she's starving for fuel at idle and that's why she's dying. You should be able to get it tuned using VAFC, as long as you take it to someone who can dyno it with a tailpipe sniffer to read the AFRs. I would not try to drive the car at all at this point until you get it tuned.

 
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good call clint, hadnt thought about that one, id upgrade that, then hit the dyno, and see what u can do with her

 
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Yep I upgraded the valve springs and retainers too

I'll avoid driving it then, untill my appointment day with the dyno.
She should make it 26 miles right?
I know red lights are going to suck.

Thank you.

 
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Honestly, she's probably not going to lean out that much as long as you're easy on accel and don't have many of places to put a lot of load on the engine (hills, etc...). Since the VAFC is already hooked up, why not just dump 2-3% more fuel across the map to be on the safe side? It's not going to give you an optimal ride, but it will save your engine from detonating.

 
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I'm not very good at this electronic stuff..

What setting should I change on the VAFC II to dump more fuel?

 
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Damn new prob.

Was messing with the VAFC and on the V/T Pres screen. the options were
set to ****. I changed that now my engine light is on.
How do I get it back to ****. I thought Cn would cancel it. but no luck..

 
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I don't even know what **** is.

Is that V/T Pres screen, for the VTEC oil pressure engagement point? What CEL are you throwing?

 
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lol what option do you want to state ***

i have a VAFC2 also i can help you with your settings...


it its Vtec Crossover you want at ***

you should press right on the controller...

should be right... and it should go back to stock crossover

 
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Its option 5. V/T Pres. under 2. Setting
Book says its the load sensing type VTec changeover.

it has HiPrs: and HiThr:
I changed that. *bonk me* Its now HiPrs: -40 and HiThr: 10 %
need to get it back showing HiPrs: **** and HiThr: **%

 
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Oh and what do I need to change on it to "dump 2-3% more fuel across the map"?

 
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Ill look at lunch what mine is to get things back to stock for yah...

But i wouldn’t recommend just adding fuel across the narrow throttle...

The vafc sucks at narrow throttle adjustments, it handles the wide open settings better.

And i wouldn’t recommend addintg to the full throttle eather because of the cam, i have one too just not installed. So, im blind in that department.

Get it to the shop

 
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Thanks

I'm getting it tunned next Wednesday

 
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Can you post your fuel map? That way we can see what adding that 2-3% across the map will actually translate to in numbers. This is just to get you to the tuner safely.

 
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Me?

computer own me... i cant post **** on the internet.

but i have my tune written down at my apartment.

i also paid $100 to have my VAFC2 sottered to the ECU and tuned. sooo

 
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No Don, I was talking to the OP. Just so I can see what the map looks like to give a little advice on what values to change from and to. Although if you know how to actually change the values (from a buttonology standpoint) that would be great. I do mine using my laptop. Not sure how the VAFC rolls.

 
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idunno

 
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Man I wish I saw this thread earlier. I had the stage 2 cam for a year and sold it like 2 months ago. Your car will never idle the same sorry. Not gonna happen w/o A.) throwing a code B.) Stand alone ECU. You can get it to idle w/o stalling but you have to pull out alot of fuel. The cam will cause the car to run too rich at idle. You can drive it to the dyno and be safe. The ecu does a good job of keeping the same air/fuel ratios but I would not go wide open throttle until tuned. I know this because I drove my car with the emanage unplugged and constantly watched the air fuel ratios. It will jump all over the place but you shouldn't blow the engine. I think the VAFC2 will do a better job of controlling the idle w/o codes compared to my emanage but you DEF need to get a dyno tune. Post up results highest on that setup was Oscar (DJmota) and he made 133whp before he got Kpro.

 
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I talked to the Dyno shop. They said I would be fine. no need for an ECU.
You thank that sounds right?
I'd hate to have to spend money on an ECU right now. But if I have to I have to.

 
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No, you don't need an ECU, you already have one. The VAFC will work to tune your car with the new cam, it's just not the best piggyback out there, lots of folks are running with them without issues. Kind of like the difference between a Civic DX and an EX. Both are going to get you where you want to go, but one has more bells and whistles, is a little more fun to drive, and has more safety features. Let us know how the tune works out!

 
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I'm sorry not an ECU but an EMS
Would I be better off with an EMS or the VAFC will be fine?

 
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EMS always greater than VAFC2 but if you get the EMS you might as well build the engine bc cost for one is huge. Try the VAFC2 since you have it. You can get it to work but it will take alot of playing around. The Stage 2 cam is very aggressive with its high lift and longer duration and the ecu doesn't like that too much. It will drive perfect but the idle is a PITA to smooth out.

 
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Will its not to bad. $1681.63 and $2027.70 for one with Wideband UEGO..

 
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Cool if you can afford it go ahead. I always wanted an EMS with my setup but just did not have the funds. Maybe I will start over again and complete my dream of a built n/a d17 regardless of the numbers it makes lol.

 
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I ordered my EMS. $2167 after tax. for the 30-1030U model.
I'll go pick it up later this afternoon.

 
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awww snap!

 
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About time someone with an ems and stage 2 cam. 150whp here we come!!!

 
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Its installed.. I have know idea what I'm doing.
I got the Base Map uploaded to the EMS.
But I keep Double checking things before I try to start my car.