Check Engine lights came on.... But I felt nothing wrong with the car!
Check Engine lights came on.... But I felt nothing wrong with the car!
Hi, I am driving a 1.7 Acura EL. Which in the U.S. a civic.
This morning, when I going to work... I stop by a gas station and fill my car up. Then I drove about 1 KM to my work place and park the car there for about 10 hours.
On my way home tonight, drove around 10 KM and then stuck on the Highway. All the sudden, my Engine light came on! The car felt normal... I didn't felt a thing!
I checked my owner manuel, it said the "Engine Check Light" can caused by an missing fuel cap or lose fuel cap. I got off the car and check, but the cap is on! Drove a bit, but the Engine light still remain "ON".
Last summer, I had another Engine Light problem. But it is still under warranty, they replace some Fuel Valve and Sensor. The dealer told me not to over fill your tank. Because that will kill the sensor.
Sence then I never over fill my tank... And my car already 4 years old. Damn, hope this not going to be expansive!
This morning, when I going to work... I stop by a gas station and fill my car up. Then I drove about 1 KM to my work place and park the car there for about 10 hours.
On my way home tonight, drove around 10 KM and then stuck on the Highway. All the sudden, my Engine light came on! The car felt normal... I didn't felt a thing!
I checked my owner manuel, it said the "Engine Check Light" can caused by an missing fuel cap or lose fuel cap. I got off the car and check, but the cap is on! Drove a bit, but the Engine light still remain "ON".
Last summer, I had another Engine Light problem. But it is still under warranty, they replace some Fuel Valve and Sensor. The dealer told me not to over fill your tank. Because that will kill the sensor.
Sence then I never over fill my tank... And my car already 4 years old. Damn, hope this not going to be expansive!
i had the same problem i didnt tighten the gas cap enough but if you read more in the manual it should say that the check engine light should go off with 2 normal days of driving or somethin along those lines atleast my manual did. maybe thats the problem.
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or you can just clear it using the odometer button.
Hold down the trip meter button, turn the car to on, wait about 20 seconds, start the car, and let go of the button. Light is reset until the next mileage interval.
Hold down the trip meter button, turn the car to on, wait about 20 seconds, start the car, and let go of the button. Light is reset until the next mileage interval.
if you get it checked out. It could be gas in the evap canister, and thoes things arent cheap. Either go and get a OBD-II scaner and check out the code, or bring it to honda.
Either way, check for what the code is, its the only way to pinpoint the problem.
Either way, check for what the code is, its the only way to pinpoint the problem.
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read my faq on check engine light. you have many sensors and actuators on the vehicle. the ecu is always monitoring all sensors. when it sees something wrong the check engine light will come on.
Crap. Just came back from the dealers... They wanted more time to diagnoses the problem.
First he tell me it could be a leaking gas cap. Then they change it, and it still leaks! Now they wanted to drop my gas tank to check! They already charge me $105! This is going to be expansive!
They wanted me to call them on Tuesday, to see if I can get a loaner car so they can spend most of the day to check what going on.
Last summer they change the Canister and the Sensor already. They said I over filled my car all the time and caused it. He said, when you pump gas, and the pump stop inducating it is full... Don't try to put couple of buck more trying to top it up....
It was under warranty back then. When the light came on again this time. I told him, it was replaced last year and I haven't overfill my tank after they change the canister. First they tell me could be the Gas CAP, yes then say it could be Canister... he said he see lot of fuel in it or something. Then he go back did some more check... now he wanted to drop the tank! Crap... $$$$$$
Here is the error code: P1456 EVAP CONTROL SYSTEM LEAKAGE
If it is the Caninster again, how much am I looking at?
And by the way, what is this EVAP control system do anyway? Does it save gas? What if I don't fix it? What is the disadvantage of having a system leak?
First he tell me it could be a leaking gas cap. Then they change it, and it still leaks! Now they wanted to drop my gas tank to check! They already charge me $105! This is going to be expansive!
They wanted me to call them on Tuesday, to see if I can get a loaner car so they can spend most of the day to check what going on.
It was under warranty back then. When the light came on again this time. I told him, it was replaced last year and I haven't overfill my tank after they change the canister. First they tell me could be the Gas CAP, yes then say it could be Canister... he said he see lot of fuel in it or something. Then he go back did some more check... now he wanted to drop the tank! Crap... $$$$$$
Here is the error code: P1456 EVAP CONTROL SYSTEM LEAKAGE
If it is the Caninster again, how much am I looking at?
And by the way, what is this EVAP control system do anyway? Does it save gas? What if I don't fix it? What is the disadvantage of having a system leak?
Last edited by clementlo; Dec 14, 2006 at 10:33 AM.
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sounds like the tech doesnt know what he is doing. when I have a car at work with a evap leak, the first thing I do is put the evap system in a vacuum and see how much it leaks. usually set it at 25-30 hpa and it shouldnt drop less then 5 hpa in a minute. if it does, there is an issue.
first thing is checking the gas cap. if thats ok, usually I will replace the charcoal canister which comes with a new shut off valve. then retest. if it still leaks, I will pull the back seat and check to see if the fuel pump seal is leaking. if it isnt, then I will check all my hoses and isolate the system up to the tank. if the evap system still leaks, last resort is the tank is leaking.
but telling you after checking the cap that the tank needs to be pulled doesnt sound right. ask if they have checked the purge valve, shut off valve, hoses, electrical system, etc... sounds like since it is customer pay, they want to get money out of you. we have techs like that in our shop. cant do much about it.
first thing is checking the gas cap. if thats ok, usually I will replace the charcoal canister which comes with a new shut off valve. then retest. if it still leaks, I will pull the back seat and check to see if the fuel pump seal is leaking. if it isnt, then I will check all my hoses and isolate the system up to the tank. if the evap system still leaks, last resort is the tank is leaking.
but telling you after checking the cap that the tank needs to be pulled doesnt sound right. ask if they have checked the purge valve, shut off valve, hoses, electrical system, etc... sounds like since it is customer pay, they want to get money out of you. we have techs like that in our shop. cant do much about it.
Well, couple of years back they did change somethings on my tank. I don't know if it is the fuel pump.
My fuel guage sometimes screw up. I will lose 1/4 tank all the sudden and slowly climb back up to normal. It still does this today, I just fed up with it and leave it. They try to fixed my fuel gauge problems 5X and I just gave up!
I call the dealer on Tuesday and see what happen. The guy said he won't charge me another $105! trying to found the problems.
By the way, they reset my light yesterday. I drove it hold day yesterday, and this morning to work and the light didn't came back. So should I go back to them or not? But if I do not go back to them next week and the lights come back on 2 to 3 weeks later, they may charge me another $105 to check again!
My fuel guage sometimes screw up. I will lose 1/4 tank all the sudden and slowly climb back up to normal. It still does this today, I just fed up with it and leave it. They try to fixed my fuel gauge problems 5X and I just gave up!
I call the dealer on Tuesday and see what happen. The guy said he won't charge me another $105! trying to found the problems.
By the way, they reset my light yesterday. I drove it hold day yesterday, and this morning to work and the light didn't came back. So should I go back to them or not? But if I do not go back to them next week and the lights come back on 2 to 3 weeks later, they may charge me another $105 to check again!
Last edited by clementlo; Dec 15, 2006 at 06:57 AM.
Well the light came back on tonight when I drove home. The funny part is the light came back on vertially same spot in location where I got it first time. On the highway stuck near the airport!
Crap! Anyone know how much $$$ this is going to cost me? Don't tell me it going to in $1000s of dollars! Not near Christmas time!
Crap! Anyone know how much $$$ this is going to cost me? Don't tell me it going to in $1000s of dollars! Not near Christmas time!
well for an evap and stuff like that, its gunna be ROUGHLY 200 (parts and labour). If it is the EVAP canister and whatnot, but if its not, it could be more for diagnosis, parts and labor. Let us know if anything new turns out
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you cant really give a quote on something with the evap system. for one there are several parts that could be faulty. you could have an electrical issue, faulty purge valve, leaking charcoal canister, shut off valve not completely closing, leaking fuel pump seal, leak in the fuel tank, leak in a hose or hose connection.
but like I was saying before, the system is designed to hold a certain amount of vacuum when applied to it. it isnt supposed to leak. but with the trouble code that was given, there are tests to be followed with that code.
another rule of thumb at my work is if a car comes in out of warranty and there is diagnostic time with it, 1 or 2 hours, that is 1 or 2 hours that the tech has to basically try whatever works untill the issue is fixed. wether he wants to diagnosis it or throw parts untill issue is fixed.
but like I was saying before, the system is designed to hold a certain amount of vacuum when applied to it. it isnt supposed to leak. but with the trouble code that was given, there are tests to be followed with that code.
another rule of thumb at my work is if a car comes in out of warranty and there is diagnostic time with it, 1 or 2 hours, that is 1 or 2 hours that the tech has to basically try whatever works untill the issue is fixed. wether he wants to diagnosis it or throw parts untill issue is fixed.
Hi All, I think I fixed my problem!
This afternoon I filled up my car and parked inside my garage. And when I wanted to pickup my car in the evening... I smell gas! I look under the car. And saw the gas was dripping from my tank. But it isn't under my tank, it runs from the top down in the center.
So I drove it out for dinner, because I haven't have time. When I arrive in the parking lot of the mall I check under the tank again... And the gas was just dripping out like crazy! So I know it is some how releated to the fuel pump.
I have my fuel pump change couple of years ago by the dealer, so I know it is under the sit. When I got home, I took out the back sit. There is 4 screw, I took the 4 screws out and a metal plate. And Vala! There is a pool of gas around the pump. There is an Pastic O-Ring that suppose to lock the pump in place. But it was lose! And the pump is just floating on the gas! I tighten the o-ring and went into shell station to top up my tank! There is no more leak.
So I guess I have to wait for a day of driving. If the light comes off then it mean I fixed the problem. If not I have to bring it back to the dealer?
How long usually before the light will come off? Damn I wasted $105+ Tax for nothing!
This afternoon I filled up my car and parked inside my garage. And when I wanted to pickup my car in the evening... I smell gas! I look under the car. And saw the gas was dripping from my tank. But it isn't under my tank, it runs from the top down in the center.
So I drove it out for dinner, because I haven't have time. When I arrive in the parking lot of the mall I check under the tank again... And the gas was just dripping out like crazy! So I know it is some how releated to the fuel pump.
I have my fuel pump change couple of years ago by the dealer, so I know it is under the sit. When I got home, I took out the back sit. There is 4 screw, I took the 4 screws out and a metal plate. And Vala! There is a pool of gas around the pump. There is an Pastic O-Ring that suppose to lock the pump in place. But it was lose! And the pump is just floating on the gas! I tighten the o-ring and went into shell station to top up my tank! There is no more leak.
So I guess I have to wait for a day of driving. If the light comes off then it mean I fixed the problem. If not I have to bring it back to the dealer?
How long usually before the light will come off? Damn I wasted $105+ Tax for nothing!
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see the tech working on your car wasnt very experienced. that should have been something to check before even suggesting removing the pump.
now there is also a seal ring under the plastic cap. if that is damaged it will start leaking again.
now there is also a seal ring under the plastic cap. if that is damaged it will start leaking again.
I drove about 30 KM today, I took out the seat again when I got home and no it didn't leak anymore, it is dry now.
However, the light is still on. How long does it take the light to turn off?
I also have another problem, yesterday when I remove the pump and try to remove the fuel line and check. I think I got some air trap inside when I remove the line. Now when I start my car, I need to crank the engine about 5 to 6 seconds before it start. Before it only take 2 seconds or less.
However, the light is still on. How long does it take the light to turn off?
I also have another problem, yesterday when I remove the pump and try to remove the fuel line and check. I think I got some air trap inside when I remove the line. Now when I start my car, I need to crank the engine about 5 to 6 seconds before it start. Before it only take 2 seconds or less.
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either way it doesnt really matter. pulling the ecu fuse will reset the ecu, thus clearing any codes. now if you fixed the problem, then the light wont come back on. if you still have an evap leak, the light will come back on after 2 consecutive drive cycles.
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