Rep Power: 0

I just replaced my timing belt, water pump and tensioner at 110,000 miles.

I made a boo boo and started the motor with the belt 2 or 3 teeth off and it ran like crap for 5 seconds and died. After redoing the belt, I checked it, manually cranked it over a few times, rechecked and then started it up. I am 100%certin the belt is aligned correctly, I just rushed it the first time.

Now I have a loud tick on cylinder #1 and its not firing on #1. The check engine light is on. It seems to idle decent except for the misfire.

I have semi new iridum plugs in there and I swapped #1 and #4 plugs and nothing changed. I even swapped a few coils around and still the same. Ive checked over all the sensors and connections and everything is connected fine.

My fear is I bent a valve. In the morning I'm going to adjust the valve lash to see if that fixes it.

Does anyone have any ideas? I really hope its not a bent valve. And if it is a bent valve then can I replace it without removing the head?



PS. F*#K Honda for not putting an alignment hole in the cam and #1 cam bearing so you can put a pin in there to lock the cam in place like on the B, F and H series engines. It seems like they crapped on the D

 
Rep Power: 452

first off, its not hondas fault for anything. It is clearly marked on the cam, crank, oil pump and harmonic balancer for the timing. when you remove the timing belt, you are supposed to align the marks. there is a mark on the oil pumo that will align with a mark on the drive pulley. Also the cam gear has the word "up" that will face up when everything is aligned. Now to get those all aligned, you simply turn over the engine untill the harmonic balancer is at TDC. the mark on the balancer will be at "0". there is no need to have to lock anything together. I replaced my timing belt, tensioner, and water pump at 110K miles and neither the cam or crank moved at all when installing the belt. If anything, its your fault for not turning the motor over by hand and checking the timing before starting the engine. You never start it unless it turns over by hand fine and the marks line up. I am not trying to be an *** or anything, just letting you know. Sometimes you learn from mistakes like this.

Now I bet you did bend a valve. I would run a compression check on all the cylinders and see what they are. especially cylinder 1 if its misfiring. that will tell you if you did bend a valve or not. Now if it is a bent valve, you will need to remove the head. thats the only way to get the valve out. you can probably remove the valve keepers without removing it, but to pysically get it out from the head, it will have to be removed.

 
Rep Power: 0

I agree, a compression test will tell you right away with no doubt if you bent a valve.

 
Rep Power: 313

I was told my mechanic but,

what is the correct "compression" # your looking for in a "perfect" car???

 
Rep Power: 452

it depends on the make and model of the car. a hondas compression will be different then a chevys compression. Give or take. but from what I have been told, it is usually 10-15 PSI above or below the "correct" reading for the car. anything out of those ranges, something may be wrong. But I dont think you will ever find a perfect reading.

 
Rep Power: 313

Crazy! Sounds kinda like an "Imperfect" test that is so important...

thanks as always Street!

 
Rep Power: 323

there is no perfect number fro any engine. There are way to many uncontrollable variables to make a perfect number. engine temp altitude density ect. You want nice even numbers across all cylinders.
If you ahev to adjust the valves on #1 that is not firing then they are bent. don't run the engine you will just make things worse.

 
Rep Power: 452

^^^^ better said.

 
Rep Power: 0

I did a compression test and its screwed.
I looked into the price of a head rebuild, about 500 bucks.

So I just baught a used engine for $300 with only 40,000 miles. The wrecking yard had a dozen laying around. Dude seemed happy to get rid of it. Kinda funny spending that little on a motor at the same place I paid 2k to a few months ago for my B18C.

 
Rep Power: 452

well make sure your new motor comes with some type of warranty. DOnt want to end up putting it in and find out there is something wrong with it.

Now if I were you, I would have pulled the head off the old motor and see if only the valve was damaged.

 
Rep Power: 0

I believe he's just going to use the head off the used engine and put it on the engine in his car.

As far as the discussion about compression tests; the service manual for your make of car will have a compression "range" and as long as you car is with in range, you're fine.

 
Rep Power: 302

i wouldnt swap the entire motor just the head. youll be giving yourself a lot more work to swap out the whole motor. but then again it would take you from 110k to 40k. that in itself might be worth the extra hassle of the intire swap.....

 
Rep Power: 811

should be 135psi roughly per cylinder.

 
Rep Power: 0

I'm doing the whole engine, the piston may be damaged. I think its easier actually. This way I won't need to mess with the harness much. Also I absolutely hate dealing with intake manifolds and the support brackets while its in the car. With the way I drive (floored a lot due to a lack of power) its probably a good idea to have an engine with less than half the miles. And the timing belt, water pump and tensioner are a lot easier to do with the engine removed.

I'm giving the motor to my 15 year old cousion to play around with. He's taking auto shop and is parting together a 90 CRX. This way he can have a decent motor without having to invest a whole lot of money and having a learning experience.