02blkhonda

ok so my engine light finally came on, so i run back inside the house and get my scan tool. I hook it up and it pulls about 150,000 codes..na just kiddin but it did pull 5 codes, 1)cylinder 1 misfire, 2)cylinder 2 misfire, 3)cylinder 3 misfire, 4)cylinder 4 misfire, and last but not least 5)random/multi cylinder misfire. Does anybody have a fvcking clue what this means is wrong with my car, this motor has 101k miles on it and the only maitinece is just general like oil change, plugs, and valve adjustment...nothing else, is there something that would make all 4 misfire at one time. The car feels like it hasnt lost any power except for the broken motor mount, umm the car idles shitty sometimes but then corrects itself after about 10 secs. And just recently when it is cold it will feel like it hesitates a little going up hills. Has anybody had this problem or does anybody know what is wrong with my car

EM2jdm

sounds like timing, but not sure

02blkhonda

that is what a friend of mine said, but how would the timing be off, and how would i go about fixing that????where is gearbox he seems to know everything about these cars inside and out?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

um i would throw that motor mount idea out the window now. the misfires are making the car shake. Oh boy if every cylinder is doing it you have and are going to have big problems driving like that. a misfire means the fuel isn't being ignited which causes power loss, hesitation, shaking, the works. it looks like if it drives normal sometimes, its an intermittant misfire. timing can cause this but again if somehow the belt slipped, the car would barely move. Unfortunately, misfires are very hard to diagnose. Check the plugs first and foremost. Check the coolant level both in the overflow chamber and the radiator (when car is cold) and make sure they are filled to the top or max. then check resistance on all coils using a multimeter and make sure the values are close to each other. Could also be clogging injectors. Throw in some 2x dose of fp60 from lubecontrol.com and see if that fixes it. Finally there is a compression checker you can get for $40 at the auto parts store and check each cylinder compression when engine has been warmed up. That will tell you right away if your motor is retired.

02blkhonda

maybe i should just buy this auto civic that has been wrecked and put that motor in...it only has 50k and i can get it really cheap. i should just be able to take the old motor out and put the new one it right?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

um its a bit more complicated than that. But yea its doable with the right tools. I'm assuming you mean have a shop put it in? At least do the compression check to see if your old motor is still good. It might just be a small problem maybe a vacuum leak.

02blkhonda

ok i will do that and let you know how it goes...thx for the help i will post tomorrow how the compression check goes

turboengnr

iTrader: (2)

possibly a bad tank of gas?

Right after i filled up one time i had random cylinder misfiring.

02blkhonda

but this is all four cylinders misfiring! but i have here lately been running it all the way down to the bottom of the tank, driving a long time on the gas light...but the motor is starting to make some funky noise...valves are getting a little louder, also it does need an oil change but i was gonna wait and see if it was dead...anyways i will do the compression check and let you guys know.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

i have a very loud tapping noise since the dealer put the new head on. something makes me think they didn't adjust the valves cause I left em all loose when i gave it to them. you can hear it with the hood closed from 10 feet away. its loud but the car runs okay. so who knows. let us know what happens tomorrow.

turboengnr

iTrader: (2)

if you run close to the bottom of a tank, then fill up and have some bad gas, that may be your problem. I believe mine had some water in it. And for that entire tank of gas, it ran like ****. You have to run it completely down as far as you can. Then fill it up with some quality gas. If you only run it down to 1/2 tank or so then fill it up, you will have the same problem until you run that tank completely down.

Then again, that is if it is bad gas. I know i thought i broke the motor at first with mine. But when i saw all 4 cylinders misfiring and the plugs were fine, i knew exactly what it was.

02blkhonda

na, i really do have a broken motor mount...i seen it, looks ****ed up...

turboengnr

iTrader: (2)

i have one too. But mine doesnt make any noise. Yours must be really messed up

02blkhonda

idk what exactly is wrong with my car.....but if the timing is off how do i reset it, and if i was losing compression wouldnt i have great power loss, i do have some power loss i only beat a stock civic by bout half a car the other day....i was so dissapointed with the mods that i have i should have raped him

turboengnr

iTrader: (2)

your timing cant be off unless there is something seriously wrong with the ECU. The timing is completely computer controlled. So unless your timing belt skipped a tooth or something, the timing is correct.

So it has to be something else.

When you have a loss in compression, you do have a power loss. But how much of a loss varys with how much of a loss in compression you have.

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

you mentioned that you did a valve adjustment, how long ago was this?

Also are you sure there arent any other codes associated with these codes?

02blkhonda

yeah just did a valve adjustment like a week ago. It was not showing any other codes but the ones i listed....about a month ago it threw a 4 codes...the same ones except there was no cylinder 1 misfire, but it just went off and ran fine. Also if i have lost compression does that mean that the motor is done? didnt have time to check it today but i will tomorrow. i am confused on what is wrong with it??

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

yea lost or inconsistent compression across each cylinder means something internal has failed. cause when you test the plugs and fuel injectors are taken out. you know how to do a test right? car has to be hot, then unplug injectors (requires removing stock intake), remove plugs. then for the tool, you gotta screw on the proper size adapter to the hose very tight and then screw in the whole tube and gauge into the spark plug hole so that it seals but not tight or it will get stuck! go inside and floor the gas, crank the motor at least 4 times and then let off. check gauge. should be close to 135psi for each cylinder. I'll post the actual values and deviations later.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

also a bad primary o2 sensor could cause your problems.

02blkhonda

damn i didnt know i had to do all that, i might get someone to do it for me

turboengnr

iTrader: (2)

its really easy.

take the spark plugs out
unplug the injectors
screw the compression guage in hand tight
crank the motor over with gas pressed to the floor
read values

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

follow the simple instructions. if i can do it so can you. it was my first time and everything went fine except for getting the socket stuck in the hole. just work fast before the engine cools down.

02blkhonda

cool...but how hard are the injectors get out, and is there anything special i have to do to get them to seal when i put them back in?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

no no you UNPLUG the connectors from the injectors. there are four plugs just pull them out but if you have the stock intake you'll need to take off the airbox to reach back there.

02blkhonda

crank the motor over???you mean just turning the key to where it is not starting but the motor is turning over?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

yea press the gas pedal to the floor and then hold the key full forward like you're starting the car. it will just keep cranking so let it go at least 4-5 times to get accurate reading. then let go and take the key out and do it for 3 more cylinders.

02blkhonda

ok so today was valentines day and i have a high maitinece girl, so of course i didnt get time to do **** to my car, but let me get this straight. I take out all of the plugs and unplug all of the injectors. and then do it or do i take out one at a time....sorry i have never done this before

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

take everything out all plugs all injector plugs. you need to remove the airbox to unplug them. then screw the tester in the hole finger tight so it seals but not hard enough that you can't get out. you just do each cylinder one at a time. hook up the gauge to one hole, floor the gas, crank the car 5 times. repeat. the gauge should have a peak hold function that keeps the needle at its highest point. then when you read the number push the pressure release and remove the tester.

02blkhonda

cool, thanks for the help i am goin to do that later today

02blkhonda

ok so i got a new battery cause mine was completly dead this morining....the vibrations stopped at idle but it seems like it still has a little hesitation when driving...idk what the problem is, my friend is suppose to be bringing the compression checker over later so i will do that and post the results