Rep Power: 0

Ok, I got some replacement CV axles, for my 2001 Civic EX manual trans, now for the fun. I tore into the project expecting a few hours killed, but...
The short axle on the passenger side wouldn't come out of the trans.
So I went to the long axle and it popped out no problem, replaced and put back together, no problem. Back to the short axle, I kept attempting to pop it out and I could only get it to move about .75 inch out of the trans. It was just enough to make it leak tranny fluid. So after a couple hours of trying for a bit and taking a break, repeat.... I just pushed it back in and put the car back together. Anyone know what's up with the axle? Why won't it come out?
Does it have anything to do with the little "c" clip on the end of the axle?

I'm guessing that a shop has some magic tool that will bring it out. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks.

 
Rep Power: 302

No magic tool. It just pops out. But sometimes it's tight, and it has to come STRAIGHT out. No sideways load, or it just binds up. If you have the room, jiggle the axle while pulling on it. It has to come out.

 
Rep Power: 327

use a pry bar between the axle and the trans and should pop right out

 
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ok, I used a pry bar, I have the short axle out a whole inch now... it is taking way too much force to move it. Something isn't right. Should I keep spending time prying and wiggling and prying and wiggling? I've never had any issues with changing CV axles before. I've done many makes and models. This is the first real problem I've experienced removing an axle. Any suggestions? Otherwise I'm calling a garage tomorrow.

 
Rep Power: 302

Could be the C-ring is jamming in there. I'd say you are committed at this point. A "SHOP" is going to do the same thing... force the axle out and see what happened. And then charge you a $hitload of $$$ for using "their" prybar.
A look in the service manual confirms that the axle comes straight out. It's only held in by a little C-shaped clip.

 
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Confirmed. The "C" clip is fubar. I dropped it off at 6am. They were still trying to get the CV out at 3:30pm. So... maybe tomorrow. Maybe they will destroy my transmission in the process of removing the axle? Only time will tell. They initailly told me that it would cost $45 dollars to do a CV axle replacement.

We will see how much it actually costs after a day and a half labor.

I'm so lucky! I'm so happy honda engineers put a little piece of wire on the end of the CV axle to cheaply solve their engineering problem.

Wish me luck, and hopefully I won't be bending over a barrel tomorrow.

 
Rep Power: 327

Almost EVERY manufacture retains the axle this way. Not just honda!

 
Rep Power: 302

That's correct. And it's pretty unusual for the clip to jam.... it's usually well oiled inside the tranny.

I'd INSIST on that $45 labor rate, though.

 
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Ok final word. I over spun the right wheel taking a right hand turn, from a full stop up and to the right, I got on first, and of course no LSD and the tire revved up I let off as soon as I saw the RPM's going up and no speed to follow. Well... what this did was drive the transmission fluid out of the axle area, and allowed some metal to metal contact on the smooth part of the shaft. Needless to say, and axle is hard to remove once it has waves in it. The "C" clip is fine, no strange things there... After polishing the interior of the tranny to make sure everything is clean, the shaft was replaced.

Hopefully the bearing didn't take a beating, and it lasts another 10K miles. But only time will tell. I guess I'll be taking it easy on the ole' civic for the next year or two. Just to make sure a transmission rebuild isn't in my future.

So, to wrap up the thread, the CV axle melted a little... thus creating a couple grooves perpendicular to the shaft, making it a ***** to come out.
The oval peg through a round hole. It was beaten to death and it is driving fine now. Thanks for the support through this crazy fix.

I have never experienced anything like this. In every CV Axle replacement I've done, the hardest part was taking off the lug nuts & puting the car on jackstands upon a not-so-level driveway. So... thanks everyone... remember, no LSD, then don't over-rev. while making sharp turns... it might melt something critical. Lesson learned.

 
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have you tried using a prybar at like 3 o clock position and another one opposite of that? the other replies are correct that c clip will get jammed up. hope you suceed!

 
Rep Power: 304

so how much was labor in the end?

 
Rep Power: 302

Wow... that's an odd one.

 
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Twas a C note. 2 days on a lift. They broke their 4 foot pry bar in the process.
All-in-all, 2 days of labor for 100 bucks isn't bad. It's running fine, and I can't complain. I did the rear brakes today... everything is smooth.

 
Rep Power: 302

A C note? You got LUCKY!! Good going. Bet they were pissed.
It happens.. what can you do.

 
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tinman, that's what I thought. 2 Days on a lift usually means alot more money than 100 bucks. So there went 2/3 of my core charge on the Axles... o-well.
It's fixed, and i didn't have to break the transmission housing, like I would have if I continued to try to pry it out here in the driveway. I've done so many axles, and I've never experienced anything like this b4.

Again, thanks for responding to my call. I'm so gald that 7thgen is here. I probably would have done something that would have required a transmission housing otherwise.

Common sense is hard to grasp when your fixing your wheels and they are not moving. It always helps to have anothers opinion to center your emotions.

thanks everyone. -bliv

 
Rep Power: 302

Consider that average labor rates are around $60 an hour for shops, and you should be screaming with delight. Sure wish I could have seen that axle.... never heard of that one either, and I also have changed a LOT of them. Usually pop right out.... 20 minute job. Bet the shop thought so too... LOL. I don't buy the overspun bearing bit, however. You MIGHT have just twisted the axle because of the torque difference between the left and right wheel during a turn, especially when you gas it. A buddy of mine shattered his differential doing a "spirited" U-turn. The bearings themselves have nothing to do with it.

 
Rep Power: 327

Ive had a few over the years that came out VERY hard. On some cars if you remove one side you can get a punch on the the removed side and drive the axle out the other side.

 
Rep Power: 249

for the driverr side use a breaker bar or crow bar to pry the axle out. On the passenger side their is 3 bolts that you need to remove to get the axle out of the engine housing. My guess would be you never removed those bolts which was making it hard to remove the drive shaft/intermediate shaft