WTF IS GOING ON!!!HELP (engine)
09-10-2005
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WTF IS GOING ON!!!HELP (engine)
ok so for weeks now my car has been sitting...i have no time....so here is what happened...............i was getting gas one day and then when i was pulling out of the station 2 blocks down at 2400rpm i let go of the gas pedal and i hear loud tapping....i wouldent call it knocking because it wasent that loud....but ill say like when a knock sensor goes bad they say it sounds like "marbles" in the engine....thats what it sounds like.....so crap... i went right home...1/2 mile away...park it......its been there since....i tryed dry gas but didnt run the full tank....i got an engine code......so i didnt know what to do so i toook it to autozone to see what the code was and i got
"P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit High Input"
WWWWWWWWTTTTTTTTTFFFFFFFFFF does that have to do with anything.....the car hasent been warmed up in over 3 weeks....and i reset the computer too so it wasent b4 hand....i dont know what to do....im about to drain the tank out of the fuel line and get super gas.....
please some one help!!
edit:haha i didint even notice please was missing a e lol
"P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit High Input"
WWWWWWWWTTTTTTTTTFFFFFFFFFF does that have to do with anything.....the car hasent been warmed up in over 3 weeks....and i reset the computer too so it wasent b4 hand....i dont know what to do....im about to drain the tank out of the fuel line and get super gas.....
please some one help!!
edit:haha i didint even notice please was missing a e lol
Last edited by CivicHatch9one; 09-12-2005 at 03:57 AM.
09-10-2005
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Rep Power: 294 Did the sound come back, or was it just that once?
Also, which car is it? the hatch or the 7thgen?
Also, which car is it? the hatch or the 7thgen?
09-10-2005
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Rep Power: 428 well before you start doing anything, diagnois why the check engine light is on. Alot of times one problem can be the cause of several other problems. Either you have a bad sensor or a ECM problem. Do you notice anything else with that check engine light on?
And as Jrfish007 said, did the noise happen once?
BTW what is you ran dry gas but didnt run a full tank mean?
And as Jrfish007 said, did the noise happen once?
BTW what is you ran dry gas but didnt run a full tank mean?
Last edited by streetglower; 09-10-2005 at 12:54 PM.
09-10-2005
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Rep Power: 319 well thanks you 2.... well i went to my old job at strauss and one of the guys there is really good......he looked checked it and drove it...........result....he said the engine overheated.....witch i never noticed..........and i spun a bearing........sht.......i took so much care of that car now i dont know.....if i do it im doing it myself like always but i never did it.....anyone have any pointers who have done this sort of thing? ill practice by doing it first on my old 1.5 sohc engine i have lying around....but still...i havent even paid off the car yet.............well thanks
09-10-2005
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Rep Power: 319 dry gas takes out water out of bad gas...and to work apparently you must run the car till its empty to take effect...
09-10-2005
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Originally Posted by Jrfish007
Did the sound come back, or was it just that once?
Also, which car is it? the hatch or the 7thgen?
Also, which car is it? the hatch or the 7thgen?
09-10-2005
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Rep Power: 294 I know what they sound like, have had a few of them actually. The tricky question is which baring was it? I had a cam baring go bad, and yeah they sound like marbles in the engine. I had a cam baring go out once and it took no time to fix, less than 2 hours. Try to figure out if it was a cam baring or main baring first, there is a huge difference between the two. A cam baring is eas like I said, a main baring I would just replace the engine, junk yard engine is only about $350-400. Of course there are quite a few baring throughout the engine, but those two are the common one to go bad. Good luck!
09-10-2005
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Rep Power: 319 he said most likely the crank shaft bearing....so im going to try it...i have nothing to lose
09-10-2005
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Originally Posted by CivicHatch9one
he said most likely the crank shaft bearing....so im going to try it...i have nothing to lose
Whoa.... that's an ENTIRE rebuild of your engine.... I would just junk and buy a junkyard engine, may cost a hundred or so more than rebuilding, but after I rebuilt an engine, I'll never do it agian. All I can say is get a helms and follow exactly what they say, and make sure to torque everything corrently.
GOOD LUCK!!!
09-10-2005
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Rep Power: 294 Like I siad earlier though, lift the hood, and find where the ticking is coming from.
09-11-2005
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Rep Power: 355 Couple of things.
1) I have had the sensor go off before. Our cars have a horrible problem bleeding air pockets and that sensor is directly behind the thermostat. If you get a pocket of air, that sensor goes off, the thermostat never opens and the car over heats.
2) I have spun a rod bearing. To most people it's easy to identify but be careful as sound can telegraph through the motor. If it is a rod bearing, I PROMISE it's cheaper to install a new motor. I put in a new motor with 12K miles for $300 and sold my old one for about $150. Thats $150 for a new motor! Honda will charge you $90 in labor JUST to diagnose it. Take advantage of how cheap our motors are. I had a new one in 9 hours later. Seriously...
1) I have had the sensor go off before. Our cars have a horrible problem bleeding air pockets and that sensor is directly behind the thermostat. If you get a pocket of air, that sensor goes off, the thermostat never opens and the car over heats.
2) I have spun a rod bearing. To most people it's easy to identify but be careful as sound can telegraph through the motor. If it is a rod bearing, I PROMISE it's cheaper to install a new motor. I put in a new motor with 12K miles for $300 and sold my old one for about $150. Thats $150 for a new motor! Honda will charge you $90 in labor JUST to diagnose it. Take advantage of how cheap our motors are. I had a new one in 9 hours later. Seriously...
09-11-2005
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Originally Posted by Rufus
Couple of things.
1) I have had the sensor go off before. Our cars have a horrible problem bleeding air pockets and that sensor is directly behind the thermostat. If you get a pocket of air, that sensor goes off, the thermostat never opens and the car over heats.
2) I have spun a rod bearing. To most people it's easy to identify but be careful as sound can telegraph through the motor. If it is a rod bearing, I PROMISE it's cheaper to install a new motor. I put in a new motor with 12K miles for $300 and sold my old one for about $150. Thats $150 for a new motor! Honda will charge you $90 in labor JUST to diagnose it. Take advantage of how cheap our motors are. I had a new one in 9 hours later. Seriously...
1) I have had the sensor go off before. Our cars have a horrible problem bleeding air pockets and that sensor is directly behind the thermostat. If you get a pocket of air, that sensor goes off, the thermostat never opens and the car over heats.
2) I have spun a rod bearing. To most people it's easy to identify but be careful as sound can telegraph through the motor. If it is a rod bearing, I PROMISE it's cheaper to install a new motor. I put in a new motor with 12K miles for $300 and sold my old one for about $150. Thats $150 for a new motor! Honda will charge you $90 in labor JUST to diagnose it. Take advantage of how cheap our motors are. I had a new one in 9 hours later. Seriously...
09-24-2005
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Originally Posted by Rufus
Couple of things.
1) I have had the sensor go off before. Our cars have a horrible problem bleeding air pockets and that sensor is directly behind the thermostat. If you get a pocket of air, that sensor goes off, the thermostat never opens and the car over heats.
2) I have spun a rod bearing. To most people it's easy to identify but be careful as sound can telegraph through the motor. If it is a rod bearing, I PROMISE it's cheaper to install a new motor. I put in a new motor with 12K miles for $300 and sold my old one for about $150. Thats $150 for a new motor! Honda will charge you $90 in labor JUST to diagnose it. Take advantage of how cheap our motors are. I had a new one in 9 hours later. Seriously...
1) I have had the sensor go off before. Our cars have a horrible problem bleeding air pockets and that sensor is directly behind the thermostat. If you get a pocket of air, that sensor goes off, the thermostat never opens and the car over heats.
2) I have spun a rod bearing. To most people it's easy to identify but be careful as sound can telegraph through the motor. If it is a rod bearing, I PROMISE it's cheaper to install a new motor. I put in a new motor with 12K miles for $300 and sold my old one for about $150. Thats $150 for a new motor! Honda will charge you $90 in labor JUST to diagnose it. Take advantage of how cheap our motors are. I had a new one in 9 hours later. Seriously...
Do you have an OBD scanner? Im about to buy a cheap one, but really dont want to. talk to you later, hit me up sometime when your free.
Peace
09-24-2005
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Originally Posted by Rufus
Call me you assclown I'm free all weekend.
hey man you need a new motor. ebay shipped for like 800 bucks. good luck
09-24-2005
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Rep Power: 294 whoa, guy down the street got a junkyard d17 for 500 after he returned the old one
09-26-2005
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Rep Power: 319 allready discussed with my dad....no new engine and no doing it my self.....truth is i have NO time....and i cant have that being unfinished....but on the other hand its sitting now and wont be driven for a bit im looking at anywhere from one to two months b4 i even take it anywhere
09-26-2005
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Rep Power: 260 if its a spun bearing, why dont you take the oil pan off and look? I mean, un-bolt the rod caps, and check out the bearings. If you find one that is damage, look at the crank. if the crank is not damaged, go to honda and get a new set of bearings.
It may look complicated, but it really isnt. Changing the bearings on the motor is actually easier than changing a head gasket (unless you damaged a main bearing).
It may look complicated, but it really isnt. Changing the bearings on the motor is actually easier than changing a head gasket (unless you damaged a main bearing).
09-26-2005
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Rep Power: 0 I dont mind doing a hg...now. Wouldnt take me too long. But the first time was a living hell on me. But I also planned on swapping a new motor, than just decided to get it all fixed. So I took out more than needed, lost bolts, it took me a long time.
Im gonna try to fire up the car tonight, and see how it runs. I cleared the code, so I will triple check the wiring again, make sure nothing is touching, and see whats up. Hopefully it will work. But at least its idling nicer now with the tb bypass reversed back to stock. took 1000 rpms off. its only at 12-1500 now instead of 24-2600.
Im gonna try to fire up the car tonight, and see how it runs. I cleared the code, so I will triple check the wiring again, make sure nothing is touching, and see whats up. Hopefully it will work. But at least its idling nicer now with the tb bypass reversed back to stock. took 1000 rpms off. its only at 12-1500 now instead of 24-2600.
09-27-2005
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Originally Posted by turboengnr
if its a spun bearing, why dont you take the oil pan off and look? I mean, un-bolt the rod caps, and check out the bearings. If you find one that is damage, look at the crank. if the crank is not damaged, go to honda and get a new set of bearings.
It may look complicated, but it really isnt. Changing the bearings on the motor is actually easier than changing a head gasket (unless you damaged a main bearing).
It may look complicated, but it really isnt. Changing the bearings on the motor is actually easier than changing a head gasket (unless you damaged a main bearing).
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