4jacks

iTrader: (3)

okay okay okay...

You The BOTTOM LEFT wire in the A connector is Green
The BOTTOM RIGHT wire is is brown / yellow

By bottom I Mean closest to the floor. and left is left and right is right... Can we use this notation???

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

that will work.

If you have any questions before tomorrow, let me know and if not, I will continue to help you on this issue tomorrow.

4jacks

iTrader: (3)

Okay ... tried to call, got your voice mail...

I still don't see the instructions on the second test, they must be short and squeezed in somewhere...

Question about the first test... About my DMM really ... Are Batteries (1.5v) DC or AC... i measured those to test the DMM and kept the same setting for the Car.

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

batteries are always DC voltage. just to see if the meter is on the correct DC setting, measure accross the battery terminals and you should see 12 volts, maybe 12.5 or so volts with the car off.

4jacks

iTrader: (3)

Okay... I did the test correctly yesterday... got 12.5 or so on the battery

Still getting a reading of below 3 volts for the first test.

This time I taped a pin to each of the sensors on the DMM... it helps..

Going to try the second test tonight and call it a night...
I'm sick as a dog.

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

Well if you need any help or questions after you finish the seocnd test or what not, dont hesitate to call me. I didnt post on what to test after you get the second reading, but let me know what you get and we will go from there.

4jacks

iTrader: (3)

This White Wire A22 is our Bottom Right according to our notation right.

It's really obvious so i'm going to go test that now.

brb

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

yes it should be 2 wires down from the other one.

4jacks

iTrader: (3)

Okay...
Doing Test Number 2 i got Battery Voltage both when I waited 30 seconds and when i tested it within 30 seconds..

it was around 12.24volts..

So what does that mean?

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

ok since you got battery voltage there, we have to move to step number 5.

1. Turn the ignition switch off.

2. Disconnect the PCM/ECM connecter A (the same one you were doing tests on).

3. turn the ignition switch to the on position (II).

4. Connect the ECM/PCM connecter terminal E8 to body ground with a jumper wire, then measure voltage between ECM/PCM connecter terminals A1 and A24.

Now the jumper wire is any long wire with an alligator lip at each end. Used to jump terminals or as a wire extension. Now terminal E8 on the top connecter in the ECU is the orange wire that is underneath the yellow/black wire on the top left corner. Just use a pin and put it in that connecter and connect one end of the jumper wire to it and the other end to a good ground. If it will reach, try using the battery negative terminal. If not, find a bolt on the chassis to use. Or connect 2 jumper wires in series to run it to the battery negative terminal. then like normal measure the battery voltage again at terminals A1 and A24 of the disconnected A connecter.

Now is there battery voltage?

If there is, update the PCM with the latest software or substitute a known good ecu and recheck. If the problem goes away, replace the ECU.

If there isnt battery voltage, repair the open or short in the wire between the A/F sensor and the ECM/PCM terminal A1.

When you get to this point and find there is battery voltage, then you need to take the car to the dealer and have them update or replace the ECU. you can replace it, but it still has to be reflashed and what not.

But if you find there isnt battery voltage, you can choose to search though the sensor harness from the A/F sensor up to the ECU to find where the open in the wire is, or have a shop do it.

Let me know if you have any questions with this.