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Strange startup problem

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Old 10-28-2003
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Yes, it's an Acura EL
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Strange startup problem

Hey guys, I don't even know how to begin searching for this issue so please, if you're gonna flame me, at least give me a suggestion before you call me a moron.

Twice now I've gotten in my car and popped the key in, turned it to on, and before I have the opportunity to crank it, all the dash and gauge lights go dead. I cuss for about 30 seconds, then pop the hood and check...fuses look good, battery connection is solid. So I get back in the car, and before I can swear some more, I notice my dome light is on again (no I didn't leave the dome light on). So power is once more restored and I can start the car and go. It's quite obvious at this point that the car lost all power for the 40 seconds or so that I'm checking all this cause my trip odometer is reset to 0 and my JVC deck has lost all its presets.
I'm really vexed cause my baby is only a year old and frankly I'm loathe to take her back to Acura and fritter away my money doing diagnostics - I can replace most of the electricals myself, I just don't know which component is failing!
Again I've checked the underhood fuses (haven't had a chance to check the underdash ones), but could this be a dying battery issue? I'm not familiar with batteries so I want to know if anyone's heard of a battery near the end of its lifetime dying out then mysteriously coming back to life...
I just don't wanna have to deal with this on the highway or coming home from downtown or something; to nip it in the bud so to speak. Any ideas? Thanks in advance for your help.
Old 10-28-2003
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Try this: Make sure you have your code if you still have stock radio. Take the battery terminals off and clean inside the terminals and ouside of the battery posts with a wire brush. Re-attach firmly.

Had this happen twice on older honda. Got in the car, everythings normal. Put key in and turned to start, and everything went off. Came back on later. It was a thin film of corrosion between the battery post and terminal, even though they LOOKED clean. Doing the above fixed it, and the battery took normal charge again.
Old 10-28-2003
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BTW, you have a WHITE face cluster with orange backlight? How the heck did you get that???? I have been scouring ebay for that since I bought my car! I can't stand the grey, and I did not like the inserts.

I'm sick!
Old 10-28-2003
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Yes, it's an Acura EL
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Um, I don't have a white face cluster with orange backlight. Like yourself, I am searching for a Ferio cluster, which I will then mod to have a red backlight.
But thanks so much for the tip! It actually makes sense since it's been rather damp for the last couple of days here. You think silicone dielectric grease will help?
Old 10-28-2003
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OOps.....hehehhe.... I missed the "TeLLy wants:" Part..... my bad.

I did pick up a set of chrome trim rings for my cluster, however, and it looks soooo much better.

Silicone grease will help, but put it on the outside of the clamps when everything is back together, to seal everything up.
Old 10-28-2003
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Will do...
Old 10-29-2003
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sounds like another ground loop short....
check your grounding wires and make sure the connections are clean.
Old 10-29-2003
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Update: this happened again tonight. I popped the hood and wiggled the +ve connector on the battery....and I heard a little click (could have been a little spark)...power restored, started the car....hmmm....if the connector was loose, why was I able to use keyless to unlock the doors...
Old 10-29-2003
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Yep, just like that. When the clamp or connector is loose or tarnished, it can still pass enough current for the small stuff. But the starter takes a LOT of current, and will appear dead. I guess you found your problem. Now go clean it up and tighten it.
Old 10-29-2003
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I'll do ya one better - I had a new terminal connector sitting in my parts bag that i bought on an impulse buy 4 months ago...time to put that puppy on (after cleaning the terminal). Thanks again for your help!
Old 11-03-2003
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Latest update: Removed the old clamp and cleaned the terminal with steel wool. Replaced the terminal clamp with the aftermarket one - I like this one better anyway, it's able to take not only the two white-covered wires (from alt and to fusebox) but it also the 2AWG and 4AWG upgraded wires I had! This was a little tough cause the wire strands are pretty thick. But after some swearing and little pinholes in my fingers from trying to manipulate the strands, new terminal action is on! Yay! When done I slathered a wack of dielectric grease all over the thing. NOTHING is getting in there now!
Next step - upgrading the battery ground clamp. Man that thing is wimpy.
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