Rep Power: 0

Err Me and a couple mechanic friends of mine just dropped another factory engine in my car. Since warranty and insurance wouldnt cover anything after my car hydrolocked.

The car is running but it idles at near 2000 rpm. and it goes up and down and plus the check engine light is on. Now we checked why the engine light is on.. it says the Idle Air Control is malfunctioning.. dont know what dat means.. so can someone help me out!!!!?

 
Rep Power: 0

I'm assuming that you have done the obvious and checked/adjusted the throttle cable....

 
Rep Power: 0

I mean it looks like it is... but even that wont turn the check engine lite on.. you know..

 
Rep Power: 0

Idle air control...hmm...... IAC.... reminds me of the Intake Air Temperature sensor... no relationship?? The sensor that plugs into the intake.

 
Rep Power: 0

Its reving real high... can someone show me a picture of the throttle body cable up close... like real close

 
Rep Power: 305

One of four things.

1. Loose vacuum line underneath intake.

2. Corrupted programming or wrong programming in ECU.

3. Damaged wire from ECU to Idle Control Valve.

4. Faulty IAC.

I might be able to help more if you gave me the exact DTC.

 
Rep Power: 0

for the check engine code it says code 505. Idle Air Control malfunction. It revs and shakes at park..... up to 2000 rpms.... then drops a bit then revs back up.

 
Rep Power: 0

It only happens really wen im on park..

 
Rep Power: 350

Interesting, so once in gear it calms down? I would think ECU, but I would take it in. Since you dropped another engine, is it still a D17A? As long as you have all the correct paperwork, I would think that Honda would still have it covered under warrenty but Im not a for sure on that.

 
Rep Power: 0

Its still the same engine... same year same model... Honda wont cover it unless they did the work.. engine swap was just too simple for me to pay for it lol.

 
Rep Power: 0

right from the manual.if you still have the other engine you can try and swap the iac.but do one and three first.

 
Rep Power: 0

You might have a "Bad" sensor now. The sensors on the intake were never meant to go swimming, not to mention that charcoal canister.

Slump

 
Rep Power: 468

CHECK THE THROTTLE CABLE!!!! I ACCIDENTALLY TIGHTENED MINE UP TO MUCH AND IT WAS DOING THE SAME THING EXCEPT IT SOUNDED LIKE I WAS ON THE ****ING FREEWAY I BET IT'S THE THROTTLE CABLE!!!! TELL US WHAT IT WAS WHEN YA FIX IT!!!!

 
Rep Power: 309

make sure the rear mount is on tight, it used to happen to my other civic too, 2001 EX. it shakes and idle is rough on park and neutral.

 
Rep Power: 0

It definately WOULD NOT be the throttle cable or else the DTC would most likely come out as a TPS code if any... rick has the right set of mind on this... go get an volt meter from one of your mechanic buddies and check the circuit for any shorts, opens, or check with the ohn meter for low or high resistance

 
Rep Power: 305

PM me with your email address and I will send you a PDF of the instructions for testing.

Peace

 
Rep Power: 0

I had same problem when my frined and I drop the B18... I tried to fix it and realized that my vaccume line was leaking... I was like what... And check ur throttle body too.. There might be a leak, too... By the way, did you change ur ecu if you drop the higher motor?

 
Rep Power: 310

IAC is a sensor that controls the butterfly valve position. Its mainly used to set the idle high when the engine is cold so it warms up quicker. As the engine warms up, it drops the rpms accordingly. Its like a choke on a carburator. I would double check your wiring to the IAC or even take it out and get it tested or replaced. Also check and make sure that your butterfly valve is moving fine.

 
Rep Power: 0

I have the exact same problem right now. My car will idle real high and then drop very low like it was going to turn off. My car did get hydrolocked but I was able to save it. It drives fine but its like you say, when I'm sitting at the light or just parked, it idles rough and the rpm goes up and down.

 
Rep Power: 0

I took my car to the dealer and they said that the computer was just throwing codes out for things that weren't even damaged and it just conflicted with itself. So they just reset the computer and everything is fine now. Thank god is was something very simple.

 
Rep Power: 0

Check and try the following.....

Check......

Is throttle cable adjusted...
Are sensors mounted properly and tight...
Make sure air filter or intake which ever you have is properly put on and secure...

If those are ok, reset the ECU by leaving the battery unplugged for 30 minutes, no less that that or it won't reset. Hook it back up and give it 2 days to let ECU adjust itself.