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Brake Line Replacement [solved]

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Old Nov 15, 2021
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Brake Line Replacement [solved]

Details:
2007 Honda Civic Si
Driver side rear brake line replacement
Hi All,

I've been having an issue where my driver side rear brake is scrapping. At first I swapped out the pads and rotor and the brakes started scraping again after a couple weeks. The scraping noise is continuous as I'm driving. The noise starts off as quiet but after a couple days it's gets extremely loud. I can feel the car having more trouble moving. I also do not roll on an incline like I should. The issue seems to be the caliber piston is not retracting after applying the brakes.

I then tried re-greasing the slider pins and the issue again came back shortly after. Then I tried replacing the entire caliber with a new caliber bracket and still the issue persists. I did bleed that particular caliber after replacing it. I also swapped the pads and rotors again since the ones I changed less than 4 weeks ago were toast (their was nothing left on the pads with only the backing plates)

After talking with my brother, he told me I should try bleeding all four brakes instead of the single one. I also read in another post that this issue could be caused by a blockage in the brake hose. So I figured matters well change the brake hose if I'm going to bleed it again.

As I was removing the flare nut that attaches the brake hose to the brake line, the nut snapped off. Yup, the flare nut just snapped off the metal brake line...

Now I must replace the metal brake line that goes from the driver side rear wheel well to the distributor block? I know the rear metal brake lines are connected to a "block" of some sorts. In other words, the brake line I broke does not directly go to the ABS module.

What the best solution? I could not find ANY premade brake lines for the driver side rear. Well I did find the OEM ones from the online Honda parts store but the shipping alone would be ~$250 which is crazy!

I'm going to try to call my local Honda shop tomorrow to see if they have it in stock. Or should I try bending a custom line and flaring it? If I do should I use copper, steel, or do they happen to sell a flexible mesh one?

Could I re-flare the current line I have on the car?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
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Old Nov 16, 2021
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re: Brake Line Replacement [solved]

The rear lines run up to what Honda calls the brake four-way valve. Yes, buying a replacement line from Honda will be stupid expensive.

You could follow that brake line back until you have enough room to work with, then cut, add a new nut, and flare it. From there you could use a coupling connector and piece in a new section of hard line. I'd be surprised if there is enough room to re-flare and connect the original hose directly.

If you end up replacing some hard line I recommend ni-copp tube. Autozone sells some 20-72" sections for issues like this. It's still metal tube but can be easily bent by hand.
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Old Nov 16, 2021
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re: Brake Line Replacement [solved]

Originally Posted by BrotatoChip
The rear lines run up to what Honda calls the brake four-way valve. Yes, buying a replacement line from Honda will be stupid expensive.

You could follow that brake line back until you have enough room to work with, then cut, add a new nut, and flare it. From there you could use a coupling connector and piece in a new section of hard line. I'd be surprised if there is enough room to re-flare and connect the original hose directly.

If you end up replacing some hard line I recommend ni-copp tube. Autozone sells some 20-72" sections for issues like this. It's still metal tube but can be easily bent by hand.
I was thinking of just re-flaring the current line but I figured if the line was rusted enough to snap the flare nut off then it may be safer to replace the whole thing? Also, is it possible to cut the line and re-flare it without taking it off the car?
​​​​​
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Old Nov 16, 2021
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re: Brake Line Replacement [solved]

Originally Posted by Cody978
I was thinking of just re-flaring the current line but I figured if the line was rusted enough to snap the flare nut off then it may be safer to replace the whole thing? Also, is it possible to cut the line and re-flare it without taking it off the car?
​​​​​
I would be replacing a little more just to stay away from the rusty section. No reason you can't cut and reflare the old line on the car, just have to find somewhere to do it without bending the line too much.
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Old Nov 16, 2021
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re: Brake Line Replacement [solved]

Lots of videos on how to flare lines on the car
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Old Nov 26, 2021
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re: Brake Line Replacement [solved]

Since it was at the end, it's probably easiest to cut it and re-flare it near the end.

However, if you choose to replace the entire line, try this:

1. Remove the old line as one piece (don't cut it up into sections)
2. Buy the copper tubing (as mentioned above), brake fittings, and some zip ties
3. Rent a flaring kit
4. Bend the new copper tubing into the same shape as the old using the zip ties to keep them together as you go
5. Put the brake fittings on and flare the ends
6. Install the new line

I did this a long time ago on an old Neon and I basically had a factory original line at a fraction of the price...all out of the way and in the clips.

** Also, make sure you know what kind of flare it is (double or bubble). I don't know what the Honda standard is.
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Old Nov 26, 2021
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re: Brake Line Replacement [solved]

Honda is bubble
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Old Dec 26, 2021
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re: Brake Line Replacement [solved]

Originally Posted by Cody978
Details:
2007 Honda Civic Si
Driver side rear brake line replacement
Hi All,

I've been having an issue where my driver side rear brake is scrapping. At first I swapped out the pads and rotor and the brakes started scraping again after a couple weeks. The scraping noise is continuous as I'm driving. The noise starts off as quiet but after a couple days it's gets extremely loud. I can feel the car having more trouble moving. I also do not roll on an incline like I should. The issue seems to be the caliber piston is not retracting after applying the brakes.

I then tried re-greasing the slider pins and the issue again came back shortly after. Then I tried replacing the entire caliber with a new caliber bracket and still the issue persists. I did bleed that particular caliber after replacing it. I also swapped the pads and rotors again since the ones I changed less than 4 weeks ago were toast (their was nothing left on the pads with only the backing plates)

After talking with my brother, he told me I should try bleeding all four brakes instead of the single one. I also read in another post that this issue could be caused by a blockage in the brake hose. So I figured matters well change the brake hose if I'm going to bleed it again.

As I was removing the flare nut that attaches the brake hose to the brake line, the nut snapped off. Yup, the flare nut just snapped off the metal brake line...

Now I must replace the metal brake line that goes from the driver side rear wheel well to the distributor block? I know the rear metal brake lines are connected to a "block" of some sorts. In other words, the brake line I broke does not directly go to the ABS module.

What the best solution? I could not find ANY premade brake lines for the driver side rear. Well I did find the OEM ones from the online Honda parts store but the shipping alone would be ~$250 which is crazy!

I'm going to try to call my local Honda shop tomorrow to see if they have it in stock. Or should I try bending a custom line and flaring it? If I do should I use copper, steel, or do they happen to sell a flexible mesh one?

Could I re-flare the current line I have on the car?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
UPDATE: I decided to buy a whole new steel brake line from Honda. I didn't want to fight flaring my own line with zero experience. It cost about $140 so not terrible. Replacing the line was a PAIN IN THE A$$! Unbolting the flare nuts was easy but taking the line off the plastic clips was very difficult. The clips are really 4-in-1 with other brake lines and fuel lines so you can't just break the clip without damaging the other lines.

Bleeding the brakes was pretty easy but just took awhile. Start with the front driver, front passenger, rear passenger, and finally rear driver. Have some pump and hold the brakes while you bleed. It does get messy even with a bleed kit.
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Old Dec 27, 2021
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Re: Brake Line Replacement [solved]

Good work 👍
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