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Ds front wheel is back and making contact with plastic wheelhouse. How can I tell if it's caused by damage to control arm or cradle? No visible beds or kinks. Has anyone ever purchased a new or used cradle? Are the sedan and coupe cradles the same? What about at or manual?
The alignment guy said the subframe is back on the driver side and forward on the pass side. He said that he wasn't allowed to fix it but I could try and shift it. He said I need camber bolts in front and adjustable arms in rear. This is my result sheet. My sheet
I replaced the control arms and the driver side wheel moved forward a bit. The sub frame shows no sign of damage. The alignment guy said it looks shifted. I'm thinking it's in the bushing or the bolts are bent. I plan to address it when I replace the engine down the line. For now I'm getting camber bolts for the front and adjustable arms in rear. I just can't decide on skunk2 or ktune for the rear arms. Everytime I ask if anyone has used either no one responds. The skunk2 v3's have a new hiem joint with small sleeves on the side instead of a full sleeve side to side. It just looks so flimsy. Thank you for the input.
i simply looked online and choose to use the skunk2 in 2002 car (different generation, mind you) and for different reasons (my car is lowered and the rears had too much camber)
can't remember when like 2009 that i installed them. Still there
From what Iv read the skunk2 v1 had bushing issues that washers would fix. The v2 was said to remedy that. The v3 has a newer hiem joint. That is totally different.its looks like it wouldn't hold up. I would like to hear from any v3 users. The voodoo13 have the same hiem joint as the v3. I can find vids of installation but no reviews in relation to quality. The ktune arm uses hard rubber instead of poly. I thought poly was the best to use. Do all control arm bolts that go thru the bushing sleeve need anti-sieze?
