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Okay, so I'm not to familiar with this whole "JDM longblock" thing, so hopefully you guys can help me out. I've got a '02 Civic EX D17A2 w/ manual trans. It has 195,000 and the motor locked up (I was expecting it, it consumed a quart of oil a day.) I'm about to buy a JDM D17A and I don't know what I need. It says it's a complete longblock, what does that mean? I found it from jdmmidwest.com and I'm gonna go pick it up soon. Do I need anything for it? Anything special I need to do?

 
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this is not a helpful how to DIY thread, so I moved it out of there.

 
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Contact the seller and ask your questions.


A long block is common term for a block and head assembly....without any manifolds. May or may not include the oil pan and valve cover.


You will need to figure out what all is different between the two engines.

Then swap parts to make the new one look and act exactly like the original.

Maybe just the pressure switch on the VTEC solenoid would need moved from one engine to the other.
IDK for sure, I've never dealt with anything JDM like that other than reading about it here.

If the other engine was hooked to an automatic trans, you would need to swap your flywheel to it..
.and the pilot bearing...
IF it is mounted (pounded) in the crank end I'd just get a new one.
IF it is in the flywheel and it's still good, just swap it.

 
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Why, why , why , why?????/ Seriously people, this is like the third d17a2 to d17a conversion I've seen.

There is no power to be gained from this "swap," and I can not see how shipping an engine in form Japan is cheaper than finding one in a scrap yard, or, a rebuild.

Can someone please explain to me who this makes sense?

 
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since op did not even bother to read that DIY sections are not for questions, i bet he went for the "rave" that somehow people have for "JDM" thingies. Japan have available higher octane fuel, so some engines are designed or tuned for more power (5 HP?)
and people goes ohhhhhh! on japanese stuff. On the other hand, Japanese guys goes ohhhhhh! on cars that have the steering wheels on the other side and it's a "rave" over there.

lemming thinking, basically.

 
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Okay, so first off, my D17A2 hydro locked and I can drive 45 minutes to Cincinatti and get the JDM D17A with about 50,000 miles and gain 13 horsepower. Don't come bashing my decisions because for $600, it's not a bad deal. I'd rather pay $600 for a engine with 50,000 mile than go to a junk yard and get ****ed. Other than that, thank you for information on the necessities. It is a manual transmission in my car currently and the motor has valve cover, oil pan, headers and such. It's basically a stock engine from what I gathered from the pictures.

 
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better check out what a D17A will give you in our lower octane gas - you will also be using the same ecu?

 
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Yes, I'll still be using the stock EX manual transmission ECU but I always run 93 in all my vehicles no matter what. There's also a gas station near me for 101. If it comes to it I'll use gas enhancer every tank it'll keep my injectors cleaner and for $3 a bottle, why not.

 
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Wiki (someone must have edited the D engine page again) says you gain 3 HP and 1 ft-lb over the D17A2, so compression must be damn close ---and 87 octane should be just fine.
Higher octane than necessary is a waste.


Don't forget a fresh timing belt while it's out of the car and easy to do.

 
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Year: 2001-2005
Valvetrain: SOHC, 4 Cylinder, 16 Valve VTEC
Displacement: 1799CC
HP: 140 @ 6300rpm
TQ: 128 ft-lb @ 4300rpm
Compression: 10:5:1
Redline: 6800rpm

That's fresh off a JDM website with the motor and specs. I don't know if maybe the Wikipedia page, but I do feel as if 115 horsepower (according to Wiki) is way off.

 
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OP something seems off.
Those picktures looked like a new engine, not an engine with 50,000miles.

and either way this is a scrap yard engine, it came out of a scrapped car... because no one builds engines and runs them for 50k fresh from the factory before selling them, lol.

You could pull your own engine at a yard yourself for $300us.

You only get a 30 day warranty so it's not like these things have been rebuilt with new seals and internals, and definitely not at that price.

Basically you're paying $300 extra dollars for someone else to pull a scrap engine.

 
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It's not "built" it's a higher compression engine because Japan has higher grades of gas than Americans. Our 93 premium is still less than Japan's regular fuel. Also, of course it looks new, you think they're not going to clean an engine before selling it plus it's got 45k to 50k on it, it's not going to be that dirty in the first place. Why would I go to a junkyard and buy a engine with God knows how many miles. Haha, no thanks.

 
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Apparently Canada used a D17A too, so maybe they aren't from Japan.

 
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...I didn't say it was built with aftermarket mods. I said no one builds engines new with 50,000m on them. So this is a scrap yard engine.

Dood I'm trying to help you save money, but you aren't understanding what I'm saying. so have fun waisting your money, because you are not doing research or listening to the people you are asking for help from.

These are the facts
the engine you are buying is used! so it is from a scrapped car.
you are paying more than if you pulled an engine yourself.
there is no point using a d17a because it is the same engine as the US d17a2.


D17a D17a2
displacement for both is 1668cc
bore 75mm
stroke 94,4mm
power 127 to 130hp
compression 9.9 to 1

this is not the high comp. piston d17, that engine is the natural gas d17a7

as well octane in gas does absolutely nothing to make power. It prevents pre-detonation. (which is why it is used in High comp. engines and boosted engines, those engines make the power, not the octane, the octane only prevents the combustion from occurring before it is supposed to in the combustion cycle).

 
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hit the button below your post that says "Edit" and you will be able to edit your post. no Need to post one after the other.

 
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Engines from jap are almost brand new with no more than 50k miles on em i swapped mine and it feels like a car fresh out the lot (smashes like a mf)

 
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