2017 LX CVT situation
Hey man! So I have a 2017 LX civic as well. I've been wanting to do mods to my car for a while and I got it a few months ago. With that said I wanted to have some fun with the car like a little exhaust, intakes, and just outside appearance upgrades despite it being a basic base model. Now I've been told that it's actually not a smart idea to do these kinds of somewhat a performance upgrade as they can really wear down the transmission especially being a CVT built to conserve for the environment. I'm hesitant about this but I'm also leaning towards selling my car and just getting a manual or automatic instead just so I know it's not as risky doing stuff with a CVT. I wanted a few other opinions, preferably someone with experience and knowledge. Can anyone help me out?
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Re: 2017 LX CVT situation
I'm rocking a 24psi tune on my 2018 Sport hatchback CVT with no issues. Can confirm my CVT hatch is faster than a stock Si. I'm running a KTuner V1.2 with a Phearable 1.5T non-Si CVT tune, and I keep it at the 24psi tune (map 3). Maps 1 and 2 are ~15psi and ~20psi, respectively.
Do you have an LX hatch or LX coupe/sedan? Different engines in the LX hatch vs the coupe/sedan LX
to answer your question, an intake and exhaust will be far from being able to do anything to the CVT alone. The OE CVT has an upper torque limit of about 250 ft-lbs, and all tunes out there are tuned to limit torque to 250ft-lbs, and a slower torque ramp up below 4000-4500 to protect the CVT. Just as long as you're not doing things like brake launching or otherwise forcing low end/high RPM launches, you'll be fine.
edit: what chez is tryina say is that the torque increase from simply adding an intake and exhaust won't cause enough stress to inherently damage the CVT. I've read about guys blowing their CVTs bone stock, but driving it like a race car, brake launching everywhere they go. There are also guys running 13.x at the drag strip with 24psi boost with zero issues, because they're being responsible with how they drag launch.
Do you have an LX hatch or LX coupe/sedan? Different engines in the LX hatch vs the coupe/sedan LX
to answer your question, an intake and exhaust will be far from being able to do anything to the CVT alone. The OE CVT has an upper torque limit of about 250 ft-lbs, and all tunes out there are tuned to limit torque to 250ft-lbs, and a slower torque ramp up below 4000-4500 to protect the CVT. Just as long as you're not doing things like brake launching or otherwise forcing low end/high RPM launches, you'll be fine.
edit: what chez is tryina say is that the torque increase from simply adding an intake and exhaust won't cause enough stress to inherently damage the CVT. I've read about guys blowing their CVTs bone stock, but driving it like a race car, brake launching everywhere they go. There are also guys running 13.x at the drag strip with 24psi boost with zero issues, because they're being responsible with how they drag launch.
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Re: 2017 LX CVT situation
Hmm, that is an interesting statement I may have to look into more. Because if that's the case I won't have to sell and buy a new car which can be a hassle.
I have a LX sedan, a plain old basic model. That's why I'm a little fearful and too cautious of what to put or take out in it
I have a LX sedan, a plain old basic model. That's why I'm a little fearful and too cautious of what to put or take out in it
Re: 2017 LX CVT situation
Oh, you have the K20 model. They only make like 130 ft-lbs from factory so you’re fine. Like sdaidoji said, it may bump it up a couple horsepower but nothing you’ll notice.
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Re: 2017 LX CVT situation
oh yeah. You'll be more than fine. The 24psi tune I have tops out at ~220whp and ~245ft-lb torque. Your K20 is rated at 158bhp and 138ft-lbs torque. I'm not 100% sure the K20 CVT and the L15 CVT are rated the same, but I'd imagine they'd be similar in that regard. Hondata did a stress test on the L15 CVT and found that 250ft-lb "limit"
Re: 2017 LX CVT situation
Okay, I see. You guys have been giving me huge help and thank you!
So the big question.
Do I need to use Hondata, or any kind of tune-up to safely allow myself to do these small, subtle changes I'd like to make to my CVT LX sedan? I'm really just thinking of this "GReddy 11001125 Revolution RS Universal Muffler Exhaust 63.5mm / 2.5" Pipe JDM" that's been known to work well and give the honda CVT owner's a deep, subtle sound that doesn't go "Ricer" crazy which is what I like. Unless you guys have better recommendations I would look into them too.
Next is the intake then that's it. But I want to know first if I NEED to do a tune-up to safely do my mods bc Tune-ups are MAD expensive Lol.
So the big question.
Do I need to use Hondata, or any kind of tune-up to safely allow myself to do these small, subtle changes I'd like to make to my CVT LX sedan? I'm really just thinking of this "GReddy 11001125 Revolution RS Universal Muffler Exhaust 63.5mm / 2.5" Pipe JDM" that's been known to work well and give the honda CVT owner's a deep, subtle sound that doesn't go "Ricer" crazy which is what I like. Unless you guys have better recommendations I would look into them too.
Next is the intake then that's it. But I want to know first if I NEED to do a tune-up to safely do my mods bc Tune-ups are MAD expensive Lol.
Re: 2017 LX CVT situation
Got it.
I was also thinking of getting a "PRL Stage 1 intake" now I've been told that building your own goes cheaper. (Aem or injen brands are recommended)
If you guys have better options, let me know. but I am leaning towards Injen intake or trying to build my own which I also have no idea how to do lol
I was also thinking of getting a "PRL Stage 1 intake" now I've been told that building your own goes cheaper. (Aem or injen brands are recommended)
If you guys have better options, let me know. but I am leaning towards Injen intake or trying to build my own which I also have no idea how to do lol
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Re: 2017 LX CVT situation
Injen doesn't have a good track record with the 1.5T. the MAF is ever so slightly off that it messes with fuel trims. PRL is good stuff, but the stage 1 is just a silicone intake tube and drop in filter. I went the DIY route with mine using the air cleaner upper cover (that has the integrated MAF housing and I hacked it off) and an AEM dryflow filter. I later added a silicone intake tube and a DIY fiberglassed heat shield box around the filter and a RAM induction system. All in all, I'm prolly $80-100 into my intake. My IATs top out at 15-20F>ambient if I'm moving. I'm not sure if it'll be the same process for the 2.0L non-turbo however.
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