Subframe question
#1
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So my 02 lx subframe is in fact bent. I know 01 to 05 2 and 4 door is the Sam subframe. My car is manual transmission. Can a automatic transmission subframe work? All the salvage yards only have automatic cars
#2
Dr Krieger of Modification
Re: Subframe question
The torque mounts are different for the manual subframe.
I can't remember if it's the bracket position on the frame, or the mounts, but they are different.
Perhaps check to see if the two frames have different part numbers.
I can't remember if it's the bracket position on the frame, or the mounts, but they are different.
Perhaps check to see if the two frames have different part numbers.
#3
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Subframe question
Honda parts catalog gives different part numbers for subframe regarding auto and cvt trans vs. manual trans, but it does not tell what the differences are. (I only looked up a 2002 with 4 doors)
Any salvage yard should have access to an interchange guide (Hollander is a popular company for that guide), I would hope someone can check it and tell you if the auto subframe can be used on a manual car
Any salvage yard should have access to an interchange guide (Hollander is a popular company for that guide), I would hope someone can check it and tell you if the auto subframe can be used on a manual car
#5
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The subframe only has two of the four engine/trans mounts. If you drop the subframe the engine may want to lean forward or back some but it will not come out. I've never done it but I wouldn't be pulling the engine to replace the subframe unless absolutely necessary.
#6
Dr Krieger of Modification
Re: Subframe question
Enginge/trans sit on the engine mounts which are bolted to the frame, so no, you don't need to remove them.
Its really easy to remove the subframe, even though the list looks long
-jack up car
-place on stand
-remove skid plate
-removing front end may help
-unclip O2 sensors
-unbolt header
-unplug the exhaust from the rubber hangers (wd40 helps)
-pull exhaust back (no need to compleatly remove)
-remove ball joint castle nut pins and nuts
-buy/rent ball joint extraction clamp!!!!
You can try using a jack but it's a pain in the *** sometimes.
(you can try a hammer but it usually goes bad and destroys the threading, and a ball joint fork rips the grease boot; then you have to buy new ball joints and have them pressed in)
-unbolt the small retaining brackets from subframe to frame (black, about 1"x3")
-have something ready to catch the sub frame like wood blocks, sand bags, jacks...
-unbolt the main four bolts that secure the subframe to the frame.
You're done!
-when reinstalling the frame I like to support one end of the subframe with blocks, as close to the frame as possible, then use a jack to lift the other side. This let's you be able to roll the subframe around a bit to line up the bolt holes.
Its really easy to remove the subframe, even though the list looks long
-jack up car
-place on stand
-remove skid plate
-removing front end may help
-unclip O2 sensors
-unbolt header
-unplug the exhaust from the rubber hangers (wd40 helps)
-pull exhaust back (no need to compleatly remove)
-remove ball joint castle nut pins and nuts
-buy/rent ball joint extraction clamp!!!!
You can try using a jack but it's a pain in the *** sometimes.
(you can try a hammer but it usually goes bad and destroys the threading, and a ball joint fork rips the grease boot; then you have to buy new ball joints and have them pressed in)
-unbolt the small retaining brackets from subframe to frame (black, about 1"x3")
-have something ready to catch the sub frame like wood blocks, sand bags, jacks...
-unbolt the main four bolts that secure the subframe to the frame.
You're done!
-when reinstalling the frame I like to support one end of the subframe with blocks, as close to the frame as possible, then use a jack to lift the other side. This let's you be able to roll the subframe around a bit to line up the bolt holes.
#10
Dr Krieger of Modification
Re: Subframe question
...its going to be a pain in the *** that way. It needs to sit perfectly, which means you're going to have to place the mount on the transmission, lift the subframe up, mark the location, and try to weld it in after taking the subframe back down.
The subframe is also bent at odd angles. So you'll probably have to use custom splints of metal/custom cutting, to get the mount to seat properly for welding.
You're probably looking at 8-10 hours of work.
The subframe is also bent at odd angles. So you'll probably have to use custom splints of metal/custom cutting, to get the mount to seat properly for welding.
You're probably looking at 8-10 hours of work.
#11
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I just ordered a manual transmission subframe ill have it Monday. probally take what 4 hours of my time? im highly mechanically inclined just never done a subframe on my personal car and wanna make sure I do it perfect lol
#14
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Subframe question
Maybe you'll find the yard left the LCAs on the frame you get and they still have good bushings ....that could save a little bit of time
If you have to use your original LCAs make sure you don't tighten the bolts for the rear bushings with the wheels in the air.......the bolts need to be tightened with the cars weight on the suspension so the arms are at normal ride position
wheel alignment should be done after the new subframe is installed too
If you have to use your original LCAs make sure you don't tighten the bolts for the rear bushings with the wheels in the air.......the bolts need to be tightened with the cars weight on the suspension so the arms are at normal ride position
wheel alignment should be done after the new subframe is installed too
#16
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Subframe question
Then set the car on the ground and roll it back and forth a few feet to settle the suspension
Loosen the control arm pivot bolts,
Then torque the bolts to spec.
The intent here is to clamp the bushing when the control arm is positioned where it will spend most of its life.
Then torque the bolts to spec.
The intent here is to clamp the bushing when the control arm is positioned where it will spend most of its life.
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