Take load off during Strut replacement?
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Take load off during Strut replacement?
I'm replacing 2 front struts in my 03 Si and I'm a little bit confused by something in my manual. It comes after re-installing the strut assembly back into the vehicle and before tightening everything down:
"Place the floor jack under the lower arm ball joint, and raise the suspension to load it with the vehicles weight. Do not place the jack against the lower arm ball joint"
Where exactly do I place the jack and how do I know how much to lift it?
"Place the floor jack under the lower arm ball joint, and raise the suspension to load it with the vehicles weight. Do not place the jack against the lower arm ball joint"
Where exactly do I place the jack and how do I know how much to lift it?
Last edited by threeoten; Apr 26, 2016 at 03:45 PM. Reason: spelling
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Re: Take load off during Strut replacement?
The goal is to load the suspension, get the car (and therefore all suspension parts) at normal ride height before tightening the bolts for the bushings that have to twist.
If you can do this with the car on the ground or the normal car weight on the wheels, that's great.
Read this thread post #16 (link) http://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-20.../#post36669793
If you can do this with the car on the ground or the normal car weight on the wheels, that's great.
Read this thread post #16 (link) http://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-20.../#post36669793
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In all honesty, I place my jack under the LCA just inside of the lower ball joint. That way, there's no chance of the jack puck marring the ball joint threads. There's a nice, flat area that you can use that has a pr of weld seams, perfect for applying a little bit of pressure. 
And yes, you DEFINITELY want to tighten everything up when the strut is under load. Along with your strut being clocked correctly(if you dis-assembled it), this will help prevent rattling/clunking when operating your vehicle.
And yes, you DEFINITELY want to tighten everything up when the strut is under load. Along with your strut being clocked correctly(if you dis-assembled it), this will help prevent rattling/clunking when operating your vehicle.
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Strut bearing seat -----> Spring top hat ---> Upper spring insulator ----> Spring....etc.
Obviously the spring bottom sits against the lower lead edge of the strut, so that goes without saying.
But no, if these are not lined up (by their 'indicators' either painted or notched) you may have issues
Obviously the spring bottom sits against the lower lead edge of the strut, so that goes without saying.
But no, if these are not lined up (by their 'indicators' either painted or notched) you may have issues
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The 3 bolts at the top of the strut are not centered on the strut. If you don't have the arrow pointing towards the front of the car you will have incorrect suspension angles. On many cars the bolts are not placed in such a way to even allow you to bolt it on improperly but having to rotate the strut on its upper mount when attempting to install it is a pain.
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