Rep Power: 0

Hello everyone. I am new, and I am sorry if I have posted in the wrong section. A friend has a Honda Civic Lx (2004), with what seems to be a cracked control arm?
My question(s) - Assuming this plays out ideally, I should order a control arm for the front passenger side? Also, I know it's hard to tell given little information and 2 pictures, but by chance would anyone be able to identify the wires hanging? The lights seem to work, but the signal lights do not work when flipped on, so I am assuming those wires may have something to do with the turn signals.
As far as replacing a control arm - any advice or special tools required? Thank you all and I am sorry if I did not supply enough information. Let me know.

T

 
Rep Power: 518

Did this person whack a curb or what? Look for other stuff bent or damaged.
I'd replace the control arm, complete
Plus an alignment, maybe that would reveal if more inspection is needed, look for more bent and damaged parts.

Wires.....maybe horn, maybe foglight or other lights? Use your head, figure out what does or does not work and see if it would make sense. Find another car like it and see what might be in that corner.

 
Rep Power: 210

holy crap, what the hell did they run over?

 
Rep Power: 367

removing the ball joint is the only pain in the *** if it's rusted and seized.

get one of these - either from Harbor freights (where i got mine) or amazon in the link.


I PB Blasted the ball joint, left the tool tightened for two or three days? And I would tighten it everyday a little bit more. The last day, it simply heard a loud "Bang!", went to the garage, and voila! the ball joint came off.

replace both arms, most likely the compliance bushing is a goner on the other side.

a new arm is cheap, just keep the other side one and install new bushings for the next time it is gone.

this is mine (it's becoming quite famous by now, this the 4th time i post it?



no idea what the wiring is, maybe some aftermarket part?

 
Rep Power: 518

I use a hammer, never really had a problem.

But I don't work in my driveway either.

 
Rep Power: 367

the BFH did not work... too much seized parts... like said, left the tool in there for a few days...

 
Rep Power: 229

I just took mine out to replace the bushings. Took me about a minute for each side (not counting jacking the car up and removing the tire.

I used a steal breaker bar and a sledge hammer first. hitting against the lca ball joint end.

then an electric impact gun ($100 new)
1/2 inch drive 12" extension, impact 17mm and impact elbow ($40), to take out the inner bolt, and the impact gun with the 17mm alone for the outer bolt.

 
Rep Power: 0

Thank you everyone. I didn't think to check the driver's side control arm as well. I should replace both you all suggest? I'll figure out the wires, just thought I'd ask since I'm here. And as far as taking off the control arm - yea I haven't ever done this before, but I am going to give it a go and see how I fair. I suppose I'll let everyone know how it goes in a few hours. I really do appreciate the advice and I do appreciate the pros bearing me patience. I see now why it is important to learn this stuff early on.

 
Rep Power: 518

The arm in the pics that is broken near the weld is dangerous, it needs replaced without question.

The other side should be inspected but if it is not damaged then there is no point in replacing it, if the front bushing is bad it can be replaced by itself or you can buy another lower control arm if you wish.

 
Rep Power: 367

the price of a new arm is not that different than removing/taking to a shop that have a press/having the bushing removed/new one pressed in.

I simply replaced the arm, both sides. BTW, id tire rotation yesterday, and the compliance bushing is already quite cracked...

 
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So I definitely failed today. I couldn't even get the endlink, which is connected to the stabilizer bar loose - the bolt to the left (on the passenger side). Clearly, I was using the wrong tools. I will have to do a little more research and try again tomorrow. Till then, thank you all again.

 
Rep Power: 210

dont feel bad...those endlinks are a MAJOR pain in the to get loose

 
Rep Power: 367

trying to remember - were there a place for an HEX key to hold the shaft in position to remove the links?

 
Rep Power: 518

Dont bother with the Allen wrench (the hex), that's only usable when brand new. Cut the damn things off and apart and replace.

I might use a cutoff wheel, or I might break the joint apart then use an impact gun and vise grips.

 
Rep Power: 229

Oh ya! sorry OP I forgot I cut off my front sway bar and left it off to race, totaly forgot how rusted those things get.

I'd go with Ezone's comment about cutting them off, trying to manhandle them is a waist of time, I snapped two Allen Keys trying to take them out before I pulled out the angle grinder and just hacked em off, lol.