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Hey again! So about 4 months ago I replaced all four calipers, rotors, and pads on my 2004 Honda Civic Si(EP3) Hatchback. This model has disc in front and rear.

It all seemed fine for awhile but once a month or so my driver's rear would get very hot during relatively short drives(20 miles highway). And the whole wheel was scorching hot to the touch. I thought it was just my parking brake sticking.

Fast forward to three days ago and I can hear the wear alarm indicator for my driver's rear brake pads so I finally start to investigate. I jack up the rear end and notice that the rear drivers wheel is dragging just slightly. Like I can hear it and barely feel it when I turn it by hand. So I check slide pins and they're buttery smooth. Reguardless I took them out and cleaned them then relubed them. Then I lubed the pad hardware as per usual. Tried again and had the same issue.
Next I tried compressing the piston using the cube tool and twisting it clockwise. It compressed no problem.
So next I thought it maybe is the hose. I pumped the brakes 4 times with the car off. Tire/brake is now completely locked. I crack the bleeder and it just barely dribbles out. Doesn't spray/shoot as I was expecting. After letting it dribble out for 10 seconds it's then loose enough to turn by hand.
I then went and spun the other side and could hear it dragging and definetly feel resistance.
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Slightly less than the driver's rear, but still some.

Went for a drive then to see what would happen and checked all four wheels this time. Noticed all four rotors equally scorching hot to the touch. Way hotter than should be expected from the 5 seconds of braking I did. Caliper and rim are cool to touch.

Read somewhere ABS might be the issue. My abs sensor was out for 4+ years so I thought maybe. I took out the ABS MOTOR fuse and tried it. Still heard the wear indicator squealing and rotors still hot.

Brake fluid reservoir level is slightly below minimum and fluid looks fine.

Where do I go next? New master cylinder?

 
Rep Power: 224

What brand were the calipers? I had a similar issue when I replaced my rear calipers with Power Stop brand. Warrantied a set and the replacements did the same thing. I ended up fixing them myself by hammering in a pin further.

 
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They're "brake boost" brand remanufactured ones. I've since been told that the other three very slightly dragging is normal behaviour from disc brakes. But I'm still unsure about my driver's rear. I have noticed that wiggling the parking break does get it to stop heating up the caliper and rim when it's doing that, but I don't think the parking break is the cause because this has happened on days when I haven't used the parking break. And, like I think I said, if I pump the brake with the rear end jacked up the drivers rear locks up even after cracking the bleeder and barely anything comes out of the bleeder. The parking break cable is loose with no tension at the caliper during this and the pull bracket/lever for it on the caliper is fully released.

 
Rep Power: 224

I have never heard of that brand. Where'd you get them?

Parking brake cable can be loose and the parking brake lever on the caliper still be engaged. That was the issue mine were having. If you compare the lever angle to the other side you should be able to tell if it's engaged. I still think this is a bad caliper.

You could pop the brake line off the caliper, then push the brakes. If fluid comes out quickly you know the line is good.

 
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​​​​There's a local auto parts shop called O'Rileys that sold them to me. Like $120-ish a piece remanufactured. Not sure if I said this in the previous post, but I did remove the parking brake cable from the caliper and carefully tapped the lever towards the release position to make sure it was fully released. It indeed was.

As for the brake line check, I'm sure it's getting pressure to the caliper when I push the brake because it'll spin with some force from me unless I push the pedal then it locks up completely. Cracking the bleeder just leads to dribbling out but after 15 seconds or so of it releasing little by little I was finally able to turn it.

As for it being a bad caliper, I have $30 at my disposal for the next 25 or so days. Is there any chance/way of temporarily getting this caliper to function till then? This couldn't have happened at a worse time, dare I say.
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Rep Power: 224

Does the caliper have a warranty that's still valid? According to their website it looks like it has a lifetime warranty. The only time I've ever seen a caliper sticking is from a seized piston due to rust, corrosion, or damage.

If you get the caliper to release, you could maybe pinch the rubber brake line. Definitely a temporary fix and will probably damage the hose as well.

 
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You're a live saver with that. I hadn't noticed it was covered by warrantee. Warrantee'd the part and got a "new" one. It seems to be working fine so far. No heat or anything abnormal. Thanks! I'll update here if things go south again.

 
Rep Power: 224

How long did the calipers last? I never trust parts store parts but the warranty is easy at least.

 
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Well that one started to stick hard after 5 days and then I'd wiggle the e-brake aggressively to make it release. After that it would happen randomly every 3-6 weeks and would be fixed by wiggling the e-brake hard.

The other 2 calipers from orileys I replaced that day are still functional to this day. And even though I had a negative experience, the fact that they were willing to honor the warrantee with a new part same-day made me very pleased. I didn't even have the receipt from the original purchase so the guy cheerfully looked manually for like 15 minutes.

All that said, I need to replace my passenger right caliper it seems as the bleeder appears to be rust welded on and it's the only factory caliper remaining. All others replaced.
Do you have a recommended place I source it from?

 
Rep Power: 224

You will never beat that in person warranty and customer service. But, buying a better brand also means you won't be put in that situation. It's a give and take.

I order almost everything from RockAuto. For calipers, I have been using RAYBESTOS Element 3 which are brand new and come coated. I have had them on the front of my Civic for a few years but they don't see many miles (but they do get the track). I also have front and rears on my CRV which have worked well for a couple years now. They also have a lifetime warranty but I haven't had to use it yet.