starfox

Okay. So here's the deal. At 58,000 miles my steering wheel started vibrating while braking at high speeds and apparently it was the rotors. So, I had them replaced (mechanic said they were too warped and "cutting" would do nothing) at my local mechanic's and figured $146 was cheap compared to dealer's price. Once I had them replaced my car started feeling smooth again and the rotor swap did the trick. I commute to Los Angeles from Vegas and back once a month for work related purposes. So, now 600 miles later (one round trip) I started to get the vibration in my steering wheel again while braking at high speeds (65+mph approx). ROTORS AGAIN?! And on top of that I now get steering wheel vibration when driving between 60-80 mph (not just braking but just driving high speeds as well). Is this a wheel balance issue or is it related to my rotors. I find it hard to believe that my new rotors only lasted 600 miles before I have to replace or cut them. OR, did my mechanic screw me.

Dont know if this helps but I inspected the rotors and found this number on the rotor: H3295 MIN THK 19 MM

Dont know if that is a serial number but I was trying to cross reference something online to see if that number matched any Honda OEM rotor thinking that my mechanic just put back the old rotor but couldnt find anything. Thanks.

EM24

when u put the new rotors on did u replace ur brake pads cuz that can bring back the same problem

phil6006

It could be a balance or alignment issue. Did you hit any significant potholes?

But if you didnt change your pads, it wouldn't explain the vibration.

Bring it back to your guy and if he does alignments ask him to check it, or have him drive the car with you to see it first hand.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

yeah for the vibrating while braking, its the brakes causing it. if youre not braking and the car vibrates, its wheel balance. when you change the rotors, you also need pads. if you brake alot at speeds above 40mph, you are most likely causing the brakes to mess up by overheating. if not, well maybe the calipers are a bit stuck and constantly touching the rotor as you drive. i would jack the car up, put it in neutral with the park brake up, and spin the front wheel while listening for rubbing sounds.

starfox

When I changed the rotors I didn't change the pads. SO, if I change the pads can that fix my problem or did my pads warp my rotors again. Meaning I need new rotors or at least cut them?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

you may need to resurface the rotors yes

unTuned

if your rotors are good and you need new pads, its ok to just change the pads. but if you need to change your rotors, you generally need to do your pads too. the mechanic should have told you that.

since your rotors are still pretty new, you might be able to get away with just changing the pads and not have to get your rotors resurfaced again.

starfox

UPDATE

So, I went to Pepboys today and got a free wheel balancing (my warranty covered it). And all my problems went away. No more vibrating steering wheel at high speeds, which I expected the wheel balancing to take care of, but also no more steering wheel vibration while braking at high speeds. Could the wheel balancing have taken care of my supposid (not supposed) rotor problem? Anyone have experience with a wheel balancing taking care of a supposid rotor issue. I guess with anything automotive any problem can be due to many issues. At any rate, I hope the wheel balancing is not a temporary fix and I will go ahead and get new pads anyway.

TRIZ

iTrader: (14)

Could also be due to your pads not being toe-in'd... possibility.

Atromos

http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900F...ze%20Pulsation

If you don't want to read that, basically an uneven hub to rotor runout of .002-.008 inches can cause noticeable brake pulsation. What probably happened is you had a warped rotor that also seated the hub somewhat off-kilter. You get new rotors put on, which is flat so it's still the same shape on top of it when you bolt it on. They eventually take the shape of the hub's face under braking and bam, same problem.

Ask your mechanic to use a "dial indicator" and to match the "high" and "low" spots of the rotor and wheel in a trial-by-error process to get the runout to .005 inches or less (but I'd obviously try for .001 inches, that's usually as low as the dial reads). You can use aluminum foil as an insert between the hub and the rotor to try to match up large run-outs. You can also use feeler stock, which is pre-determined thickness hardcore paper, if you will, that you can strategically place between the rotor and hub to get a optimal run out indication.

Lateral Run Out is the distance at the edge of the rotor that it travels as you spin the tire.. ie. how much it "wobbles". Don't just buy another pair of rotors, its' not the problem! Just make sure he torques the lug nuts using a torque wrench and NOT some automatic driver.