Overheating
#1
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I just bought a 2003 civic ex coupe 77460 miles on it.
So I'm new to the civic world. So I'm driving
Home from work and heat starts blowing cold and
Engine starts getting hot. Then heats starts working and
Temp goes back down to normal. That happens
Twice on the way home. The next morning I put
More antifreeze in cause it seemed low car ran great
For 3 days and then it's doing it again. I'm lost.
Any info would be great. I haven't noticed any leaks
Thanks NC
So I'm new to the civic world. So I'm driving
Home from work and heat starts blowing cold and
Engine starts getting hot. Then heats starts working and
Temp goes back down to normal. That happens
Twice on the way home. The next morning I put
More antifreeze in cause it seemed low car ran great
For 3 days and then it's doing it again. I'm lost.
Any info would be great. I haven't noticed any leaks
Thanks NC
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Overheating
You just found out why it was for sale.
Needs a head gasket job.
Needs a head gasket job.
#4
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Overheating
Search this site for
overheat
overheating
no heat
head gasket
all on 7th gen cars.
Head gasket is the most commonly misdiagnosed cause of all the complaints.
overheat
overheating
no heat
head gasket
all on 7th gen cars.
Head gasket is the most commonly misdiagnosed cause of all the complaints.
#6
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
#8
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Location: Honolulu, HI USA
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Probably about $200 in parts if you can do it yourself. That includes a couple of oil changes just to be safe. Probably $800-$1200 from the dealer. Should probably get the timing belt stuff done as well, since they're in the area and you don't know when it was changed last.
#9
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Overheating
Probably about $200 in parts if you can do it yourself. That includes a couple of oil changes just to be safe. Probably $800-$1200 from the dealer. Should probably get the timing belt stuff done as well, since they're in the area and you don't know when it was changed last.
What, no link of your thread?
I was thinking in the $1500 range.
One dealer near here is trying to sell a complete engine instead of doing the head gasket (according to one customer that drove an hour to see us for a 2nd opinion).
#10
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Didn't link it because I have a feeling this person isn't a DIY'er.
Probably right. IDK. 3 different dealers on my island(Oahu) and they all range from reasonable to absurd.
If it's true, sounds like a dealer being a stealer trying to make money when they know the HG job would be cheaper than a whole engine job.
Probably right. IDK. 3 different dealers on my island(Oahu) and they all range from reasonable to absurd.
If it's true, sounds like a dealer being a stealer trying to make money when they know the HG job would be cheaper than a whole engine job.
#12
#14
Re: Overheating
when the engine is COLD, open the rad and make sure its full....if not, top it up....close the rad....now fill the overflow tank to the "MIN" line or just slightly above....drive the car for a week or so and monitor the level in both the rad and overflow when the engine is COLD....report back next week
and make sure you are using the OEM "blue" honda coolant
and make sure you are using the OEM "blue" honda coolant
#16
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Ok so I looked and the overflow tank does
Have some in it just over the min line. So I topped off the radiator
And let it idle for a while and soon I saw a little steam from the rad cap area
And you could smell it. The exhaust smells normal. So
Maybe just a new cap or thermostat. And when do the elec.fans kick on?
They never kicked on while idling but after a 10 mile drive they did
Thanks. NC
Have some in it just over the min line. So I topped off the radiator
And let it idle for a while and soon I saw a little steam from the rad cap area
And you could smell it. The exhaust smells normal. So
Maybe just a new cap or thermostat. And when do the elec.fans kick on?
They never kicked on while idling but after a 10 mile drive they did
Thanks. NC
#17
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Overheating
You took the radiator cap off.
Any spillage from taking the radiator cap off will cause visible steam and smell once the hot coolant is circulating and the radiator gets hot, and will continue until the liquid is evaporated.... Normal.
But if you had NOT taken the cap off, then visible steam may indicate a leak.
------------------------
You'd have to have one helluva problem before you'd smell coolant in the exhaust.
----------------------
Rad fans come on when the fan switch reaches approx 203*F according to the test info I have here.
Where the fan switch is located makes a difference too. Most Hondas place the fan switch sensing the temps of the antifreeze as it EXITS the radiator (lower hose flow--before it re-enters the engine). This means the entire radiator must be over 203* before the fan kicks on. If there is any breeze or wind, that can be enough to cool the radiator sufficiently to keep the fan from being needed.
With AC on: The fans should run whenever the AC compressor clutch is engaged, and only when the comp clutch is engaged....... unless the antifreeze temperature turns the fan switch on.
Both systems are able to run the fans as needed.
Inside the shop where there isn't normally any wind, it can STILL take a dang long time to get the fans to run with only hot coolant temperature.
Any spillage from taking the radiator cap off will cause visible steam and smell once the hot coolant is circulating and the radiator gets hot, and will continue until the liquid is evaporated.... Normal.
But if you had NOT taken the cap off, then visible steam may indicate a leak.
------------------------
You'd have to have one helluva problem before you'd smell coolant in the exhaust.
----------------------
Rad fans come on when the fan switch reaches approx 203*F according to the test info I have here.
Where the fan switch is located makes a difference too. Most Hondas place the fan switch sensing the temps of the antifreeze as it EXITS the radiator (lower hose flow--before it re-enters the engine). This means the entire radiator must be over 203* before the fan kicks on. If there is any breeze or wind, that can be enough to cool the radiator sufficiently to keep the fan from being needed.
With AC on: The fans should run whenever the AC compressor clutch is engaged, and only when the comp clutch is engaged....... unless the antifreeze temperature turns the fan switch on.
Both systems are able to run the fans as needed.
Inside the shop where there isn't normally any wind, it can STILL take a dang long time to get the fans to run with only hot coolant temperature.
#18
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Ok so I bought the car from Acura of Memphis and I
Talked to the general manager and he is going to
Have a mechanic look at it today !! Maybe they'll figure this out!!
Talked to the general manager and he is going to
Have a mechanic look at it today !! Maybe they'll figure this out!!
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