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I just bought a used 2003 Honda Civic Hatchback which is in immaculate condition and has very low miles on it. It works like a dream. Very happy with it.
Except...

The driver-side lock is getting worse and worse and it is probably going to stop working soon. I have to carefully jiggle the key to get it to work, and it often gets stuck in the lock even if it does. They keys work fine in the ignition.

The question is: Would it make sense to get keyless entry set up to avoid having to switch the locks? Is the OEM keyless entry for 2001-2005 Civics even compatible with my model Civic?

The problem is: I am not sure what the correct "name" of the car is by US standards so I cannot find any definite info on if it is compatible or not.

I have tried to identify the model using the options given on most sites in the US but have been unsuccessful. It is stated as a 4D Hatchback 1.4 in the registration here in Finland, and that model doesn't seem to be an option on any US sites?
Best guess it would simply be called a Civic Si in the US? However I cannot find any video about keyless entry installation which looks remotely like it. I have tried to look for the module and/or connector needed for keyless entry but I am not sure I am looking in the right place.

If anyone is up for giving a helping hand that would be much appreciated. I can take picture of any part of the dashboard if needed but here is a general view both outside and in for identification purposes.


The module I am wondering if is compatible with my car

Inside view

Outside view for identification

Any help is MUCH appreciated.

 
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In US, the hatch was sold as the Si, Canada was the SiR.
Chassis code is EP3 for searching forums

It was only offered with the K20 engine, so 2 liter

Here it was the higher trim, so it had been equipped with the keyless entry, but not sure if EU cars had them or not.
I would rather contact Honda Europe to find out if your car have a receiver for the keyfob.

with the car vin, you can check if it came originally equipped with the feature. If yes, you just need to get the keyfob and program it.
I would try the vin check in honda and parts stores sites to see what your specific car came with

regulations are different between US/EU, not sure if US keyfobs would work or not.

 
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Honda Finland sites: (your language is among the difficult ones, so can't read it...)

https://global.honda/about/group/lis...ountry=finland

 
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Oh, just noticed that kit actually have the receiver module.
You will need to figure out how to install it. which wires, where, etc..

does it have the power locks?
US non-hatch cars have them at the door lever, don't see it in your interior pic.

 
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Another option is to buy another key cylinder and set the tumblers to your key

 
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well, it could be worn out links to the locking mechanism

 
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Thanks for the reply guys!

Here is an overview of where I incorrectly assumeded the module should have been connected, somewhere near the driver side door. Or maybe I assumed correctly. Maybe it isn't there. I will check behind the dashboard next.

Imgur Album

Strangely enough, I haven't been able to find any VIN-search on the Honda sites, and none elsewhere that work with the VIN on my car, but it seems very likely that since the Hatchback Si in the US was 2.0 litres (and i 1.7?) and in Europe seems to have been 1.4 (and 1.7?) litres, the model I have is not a "sport" version, and therefore most likely doesn't have the module. Probably the 2.0 sport version wasn't sold in Europe. That would ALSO explain why there are a lot of sites in the US selling the modules and keyfobs, yet NONE in the EU. It also explains why I cannot find the model on any US site to verify compatibility.

Ok, so mystery probably solved but problem remains.

As far as I understand I have two main options.

A) Replace the lock, and set the tumblers to the key so it works.
B) Get a keyless entry module and get it working.

(Or then "C) Both", which I probably will choose)

A) I am pretty sure I know how to dismantle the door, with all the pitfalls that entails for a novice. Still. Pretty clear. How hard is actually setting the tumblers on the lock? Also, I would also need to find a lock. Any hints on where to look for new OEM parts? Do OEM locks exist? Many sites referred to in old posts seem to have closed. I can find a lot of the lock cylinders available online but not sure about which really are OEM or good quality.

B) It seems like there are two scenarios. Either there is a connector for the module or there isn't. This is based on the wiring harness apparently? IF it didn't have keyless entry in Europe, then it probably doesn't have the wiring harness, and therefore no green connector. I will open up the main console on the dashboard to check there just in case. If there is no connector, then there seems to be four wires that need to be connected. Am I right in assuming that the module WOULD work if it can just be connected properly? I would feel more safe in using OEM parts than installing some "universal keyless entry module" which may or may not burn up at any moment without warning.

If I can find a good quality source for the lock cylinders then I will get some and go that route, replacing them. At the same time, I might try setting up the keyless entry if the module will work even without the connector, by splicing cables.
Can anyone confirm that the keyless entry will work even without a connector? The car has power locks so I think it should work but again, I am a novice. If I have to splice cables that is fine. I will just have to identify four wires, find where to connect them, and make clean good connections.

If anyone has answers to some of the questions above, I thank you in advance.

Otherwise, I think I will risk just winging it, and get some lock cylinders AND the module (some used modules online are sold with the connector and cables attached which makes it easier!) and some keyfobs, and give it a go.

Either way, answers or not, I will try to update here once I have resolved the problem, or burned the car down due to wiring mistakes...

Thanks again for all the answers!

 
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At least in the US, LHD hatch the keyless entry module appears to be under the center dash somewhere. Like others mentioned, that was a standard feature here. Not sure if yours has it, or even if it's in the same location.

 
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I would buy the cylinder from the dealer it shouldn't be too much and they might even be able to set the tumblers for like $10-20.
ericthecarguy on YouTube has a video showing how to set the tumblers. Other videos should show you how to pull the lock

 
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have you tried the link i posted?

 
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Yes I did, but there is no VIN search anywhere on the Finnish Honda site. At least I cannot find it. I was able to run it through "vindecoderz.com" and found out it was made by Honda UK but nothing much more specific than that.
Although I might be missing something here because when I found that out I visited the UK Honda site and couldn't find any VIN search there either... Is it only available in the US?

EDIT: I removed the dashboard lower console but there was nothing "behind the cigarette lighter" which some have indicated in posts online.
I also tried to get a better view by going through the glove box, but didn't see anything that stands out there either. Here is another image dump:

https://imgur.com/a/XFTsTM3

Since I cannot locate the wiring harness/connector for the module, I think it is safe to assume there most likely isn't one.

...but if I get a module off eBay with the connector and loose wires attached to it...the question is...will it work assuming I connect it correctly?
And the bigger question...where to connect it. Afaik there are three wires coming from the powerlock window button on the driver's side door. Four on the module.

​​​​​​​Would it perhaps be feasible to connect the module there?

 
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You think the cylinder is available from a Honda dealership? I assumed they would laugh at me for asking since it is such an old car...but if you think they might actually be able to order one then I will go ask.
If not, it is probably not available online? Or?

 
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Thanks for the info! I tried my best to check for the module there but didn't see it at all. Hard to know from the image where exactly it would be but still, thanks!

 
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It should be available at your local dealer, definitely is for me in Canada. If not order online, it should be just standard Honda lock cylinder

 
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So...I found this installation instruction for the module in question. (Attached below). Once again, the Hatchback seems to have been forgotten completely in these instructions. That probably means something.

It apparently explains the installation of the entire keyless entry harness, module etc.

Seems to me that if I can check the fuse box and correctly identify the "vehicle 10-pin connector" or the "keyless entry harness 10-pin connector", being connected there, then that will tell me whether or not the harness, and therefore the connector/plug, is installed.

Also...it would be nice to find the "Vehicle accessory socket harness". If I find/get a keyless entry harness, then I will need to plug it in there.

 
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So...update. I managed to catch covid, so yey for that. Means I will probably have to take it easy for a while so that means I am reading up online and this became a longer term project.

Afaik, the keyless module has a 5-pin connector, of which 4 pins are in use with the following wires:

Black: Ground. Connects to anywhere on the body. Would be nice if there is a dedicated grounding point somewhere near the fusebox. Anyone know?
Yellow: Keyed Power. Can be connected to the Green/Black wire on the 10pin connector or to fuse 20.
White/Red: Hot. Constant 12v, can be connected to fuse 2,3,7,15, or 16, or to the White/Green wire on the 10-pin connector.
Blue/Orange: The connection to the MICU, and the challenge. Apparently, most people connect it to "The grey double-connector wrapped with blue tape near where the module would be situated". Now, since I have still have no idea where that is, and it might not even exist since the keyless wire harness is not installed apparently, I am approaching this differently:

Correct me if I am wrong, but the MICU is really just the fusebox. Right? And the "10-pin keyless connector" which came as an addon would plug in to the normal "vehicle 10-pin connector" and has the grey connector as well? So it is logical that one of the wires on the 10-pin connector is the one I want. Hopefully...it would be Blue/Orange there as well. Of course...it should BE there, since the car has power locks and the MICU has to be getting the signal somewhere.

So if that is the case, I can just:​​​​​ first check which kind of fuses it uses so I don't go and buy the wrong kind of fuse taps (anyone know the type?) and then:

1) Disconnect the battery (negative)
2) Use fuse taps and/or scotch locks to tap into the wires/fuses as indicated above
3) Reconnect the battery, check everything works normally with the fusetaps in, and then check the voltages with a multimeter (not sure how to check the Blue/Orange one though...)
4) If everything checks out, disconnect the battery again and then connect the four wires accordingly.
5) Bind the fob (will buy the module and fob with connector and tails included)

This doesn't seem hard at all. Am I missing something?

If not, then the problem is reduced to "Where is that Blue/Orange wire"?

 
Rep Power: 366

i would recommend first trying to get the mechanical parts that are not allowing you to unlock looked at first. they might be worn out

speedy recovery, BA.2 is less deadly so good on that

 
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Thanks! Right now I am winded all the time and coughing out a lung, but hoping for a speedy recovery.

After some more internet sleuthing I think I FINALLY located the exact location of the module/connector. The diagram above is correct, as is the image in this CR-V instruction:

Link
It is located between the steering wheel and the center panel. I am in no condition to start checking, but I am hopeful the center pocket will be removable on my model car as well, and allow me easy access.

Here is a video, which at 3:06 shows the black module in the triangular opening in the frame. Hopefully mine will be there too. Or the connector at least.


And yes, fixing the lock cylinder is definitely an option, but dismantling the entire door is a summer project. Too much snow for me and I don't even have a garage. 😅

On a sidenote, I have pretty much diagnosed the problem as a tumbler or two being stuck. I might simply need to remove it or file it down. Will definitely update here with images and info for posterity when done. Hope someone will find this info useful.

 
Rep Power: 366

I lived in Canada for 1 1/2 years, know your pain with snow...

 
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Well, I was going a bit cabin-crazy sitting indoors and thinking about the missing cable/connector and it stopped snowing, so I dragged my sick self out to the car. The dashboard pocket seemed to not allow access so instead I opened the access to the fusebox and snapped some blind shots by sticking the camera in and using a series of shots in the approximate direction while panning.

After a few attempts...I think I see the connector! It exists! At least it sure looks like the right one.
Here is one photo of what it looks like, and one photo of what I found. You be the judge.

What it looks like

What I found

 
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Looks like it to me

 
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Another update on my epic journey to be able to unlock my frikkin car...

So...

I finally got the module after 2 MONTHS. I managed to remove the center console without too much problems (see images) and install the module.



After much wiggling...

There it is, finally

Blue tape removed...

Seated....

And connector installed


I manages to bind the keyfobs...

And every door except the driver side door now has keyless entry. All other doors open. And the driver side door was the only door that has problems.

So the question is...

Is the signal not getting to the driver side door? (Since the only way to open the driver side door was the key...is there even functionality for opening it?!)

Or is the signal not sent by the module? (Seems unlikely but just considering possibilities...)

Or are the keyfobs not sending the signal correctly? (Not OEM but identical-looking. Will ask others who have purchased them.)

Or is the driver side actuator broken? (Again, considering the key had to be physically used before...IS there even a driver side door lock actuator?!)

So 1 step forward, 1 step back. Seems likely I will have to open up the door at some point but I want to find out as much as possible as easily as possible before that so any comments ore ideas are much appreciated.
​​​

 
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the driver side door is the one that is the most often used (for obvious reasons )
the wires in the door hinge might be broken or about to from the open/close operation.
open door, pull the booth and check the wires.

 
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good possibility IMO.
A simple test light connected in place of the lock motor would be my next check

Also, I retumble the sidewinder locks, most of the time that's all it takes to fix it.

 
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Actuator is probably toast, check for broken wires

 
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Will check, but seems unlikely considering central locking works, so that means signals going from the door work fine.

 
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not hard, check them. (unless, like me, the garage is too narrow for the 2 door wide doors and need to check outdoors...) - always see what is the cheapest way, without getting the cheapest parts, of course
and consider that actuator is a goner...

 
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Going to check definitely, but if the actuator actually was broken then would'nt the door mechanism try to unlock? Since it doesn't, I assume that makes a broken wire more likely.

Nothing to do except to open the door. Oh well. After removing the central console, opening up the door doesn't seem that daunting anymore.

Can you recommend a rekeying set for the lock btw? They seem really expensive. $150+ with shipping and tax here to Finland is a bit more than whst I would like to spend.

 
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electrical work also carries some mysteries... fix something underhood and a problem in the trunk solves itself - it happens with electrical/electronic things...

 
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now that you spent for the keyless, try to make it work first - that should be cheapest way.

until you battery dies