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The connection was on the back of the intake.
Thank you in advance

 
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I believe that's for the VTEC solenoid, would be back side of head on the passenger side. You should have a fault code if left unplugged.

 
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I don’t have a code and I looked that up and that’s not it it’s one attached to the harness in the back of the intake.

 
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Post more pictures of where it is then. Below is a pic of the spool valve assembly. Two connectors, black one is an oil pressure switch, the gray one is for the VTEC solenoid. Gray connector looks exactly like the picture you posted. If unplugged I guess you wouldn't get a fault until it tries to engage VTEC.

 
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do you know if it has anything to do with why it cranks starts then dies?

 
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That's right around where I would expect to find the VTEC solenoid connector.

If unplugged the engine should still run. Possibly limp mode or just no VTEC and a MIL. Would not cause it to start then die.

 
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having that disconnected should throw a P1259 and toss you in limp mode. I know from experience when I had my 2002 civic turbo tuned and the tuner used the tuning unit to control VTEC and had it engage at 3500. The car ran normally otherwise, but limited RPM to 4000rpm (topped out at 80mph on an EX MT)

 
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okay I don’t have a vtec solenoid there and not sure if I even have a vtec engine, there is three screw holes there tho like there used to be something there.

 
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if you have an EX, you should have VTEC... can you take a look at the engine stamp and tell us what engine you car has?

If you don't know where it is

 
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it doesn’t even have the sticker

 
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it's engraved into the block

 
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It’s probably covered in grime. It’s definitely there.

 
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Hey fellas is there any reason why it won’t run it starts runs dies immediately

 
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there's a crap ton of things that could cause that. Any codes/check engine light being thrown?

 
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Codes? Timing correct? Replaced any sensors with aftermarket garbage?

 
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I did change the transmission fluid and that’s when it started happening

 
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the timing is off I think

 
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It’ll throw a code if timing is off. You haven’t answered that question yet.

 
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I had my timing off by a 1 or 2 with no code. Just ran like ****. Never died, nor felt like it wanted to die, but took forever to crank and ran like a dog with a sprained ankle

 
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​​​​​​Well you should probably check that

 
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it just says d171

 
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okay update so I did the timing and it’s sticking clicking when the key is on I and ii and the engine won’t start now just cranks and no codes
plus a engine light on

 
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The check engine light means you have codes. You need a code reader.

D17A1 means it's not an EX, unless it was swapped.

 
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got a code po118 , clicking on the cluster and bad battery squeaking belt. Lol bout to just kick the car

 
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P0118 is a bad coolant temp sensor. It could cause a hard start.

Clicking is probably a bad battery. That's a pretty simple fix.

Have you tried holding the gas pedal down when cranking?

 
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nah it started one time and now it’s like the battery is not strong enough
does this car need that ?

 
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What's the color(s) on the wire insulation?
Critical info.

D17A1 ? or just D17A ?
Critical info.

VIN breakdown would show trim level and therefore vtec equipped originally or not
[headscratch.jpg] Nope. Just happens. No reason at all.

 
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my bad ezone didn’t mean to leave you hanging It’s just I been putting a lot of time in on the civic
its d17a1
and by insulation what’s that

 
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Either your car isn't an EX or the engine was replaced with a non-VTEC D17A1 at some point.