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Looking over a friend's car. Captured the following on my code reader. Anybody have some good ideas right off the top?
Highlighted are CAT, EVAP, and O2S. Is there one common failure that will affect all 3. I was suspecting the O2 sensor making the ECM not perform adequately but I thought I'd ask before going off and changing parts.
Maintenance light is just for interval maintenance (oil changes, air filter, other inspections like ball joints, bushings, etc)
Cat and o2 could be related, but you'd have a check engine light if something were really wrong. Upstream O2 sensor issue would cause an improper a/f ratio that could cause the cat issues, but if it were an issue, the downstream sensor would cause a p0420 code (catalyst system under efficiency threshold)
xRiCeBoYx
Many thanks!! Well that's good news!! I only spent a few minutes eyeballing it. I was pondering if it was completely separate warning system.
I tried the resets on the MAINTENANCE REQUIRED LIGHT, and it CLEARS, but then it comes right back in?? Any guesses on that. I'm going to spend more time on that. Since the car is running quite well I'm suspecting (hopefully) the car was just cold for the other issues but now I'm curious why the MAINTENANCE REQUIRED LIGHT did not stay cleared.
Later I'll go take my time and do another reset since I have plenty of time. I'll try to come back and report how it went.
Last edited by silvernblack; Aug 9, 2021 at 11:02 AM.
Mine have been on since... 2008?
The 7th gen dash is famous for having a failing reset button, search and you will find tons. yours might actually not have been cleaned
I had not reset my partial odometer since then either, don't feel like removing the dash and soldering parts either, so i just put an electrical tape on it. It does not do much anyway
it lits after certain number of miles after the last reset, that's all the main light does.
If you keep track of what the car needs (oil, air filter, etc, no need.)
Thanks. I saw that as I searched around. I also found somewhere that stated you have to be in MILEAGE MODE (Not TRIP-A, and TRIP-B) to do a reset. I'll check on that also.
Originally Posted by sdaidoji
it lits after certain number of miles after the last reset, that's all the main light does.
If you keep track of what the car needs (oil, air filter, etc, no need.)
xRiCeBoYx
I tried the resets on the MAINTENANCE REQUIRED LIGHT, and it CLEARS, but then it comes right back in?? Any guesses on that.
Could be that you're not actually resetting the light. I know som eearlier models (2001-02) that didn't have the LED illuminated gauge clusters had issues with the ODO reset button where it would crap out after a while. On my 2002, I de-soldered and replaced the switch.
There are some stages of the maintenance light. If the mileage count is coming up, it'll flash 5 or so times then go out as a pre-warning, of sorts. When it's past the mileage mark, it'll stay illuminated
Well, I went and did more reset attempts per the guidance from this group. Made sure I was on "Mileage" and followed the procedure mentioned here. Just won't reset. Appears to blink OFF and then back ON.
I'm suspecting I may have the de-soldered connection issue. I informed my friend that it's just a mileage counter and is nothing terrible. . I also mentioned that it may not be worth attempting disassembly what with old brittle plastic parts.
Now to look up a dash disassembly procedure or video to see how terrible it is......
Even with a good switch, that maintenance required light was a pain in the *** to reset. lol. Glad you got it figured out.
Also, the issue wasn't so much the switch desoldering from the gauge cluster PCB. It was the internal contacts of the switch itself crapping out. I have this habit of not throwing away good tech/components, and I collected a bunch of small tactile momentary switches when I was disassembling an old DLP big screen (they were the buttons for channel, volume, etc), and they just so happened to be the same size as that odometer reset button.
Thanks all. I kept looking to see if I was doing something incorrectly and when I found this kinda-sorta-2-step reset methodology I thought I'd try it before trying to disassemble the dash. Kinda surprised when it actually worked!
