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Because about 3-5 times every week we get people posting with problems after they installed a cheap aftermarket sensor.

^^^^^^

 
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Ok, i see. I ordered a new connector plug too so if I can't get the existing sensor working I'll replace the connector and if that doesn't fix it then get a Denso from Rock auto.

 
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Today I tried the cheap $9 sensor and still no good. So I checked the harness plug voltage as indicated in manual and all voltages are good. So I really hope if I order a Denso sensor now it will solve the problem because they're not cheap or returnable. And I guess if the Denso doesn't work I'd have to try getting another crank gear after that? Am I going about solving this problem the right way?

Update: Just bench tested original sensor with multimeter and it shows bad.

 
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If you don't want to buy a new sensor you could try snagging one from a junkyard and hope it's good.

 
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Ok just put new Denso sensor in and throws same PO335 code. Car takes longer to start and revving engine engine in driveway engine stumbles around 3,500 rpm (same as with other 2 sensors). Otherwise engine seems smooth. Connector plug tested good with proper voltages and was cleaned with electrical contact spray. What now? Buy another crank gear assuming the magnetic contacts are bad -or- splice in a new connector plug first? IF timing was off 1 tooth would it cause this P0335 code?

 
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Believe I just found the problem! Couple nubs on crank gear are bad. My fault too because I was banging unnecessarily on it with a hammer when installing it.

 
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Why the hell were you hitting it with a hammer!?

 
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Lol lead with that next time

 
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Yeah, I always beat my crank gear on with a hammer. I'm pretty sure that's straight from the service manual!

 
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It felt like it was binding and not going in all the way so I tapped on it with a socket extension. Anyhow a couple nubs are broken and all the other ones look ?worn down? compared to pics of new gears. Do the nubs in fact get worn down over time or maybe the pics on internet make it look that way? Well, I got a new gear coming this week so I should be back in business soon.

On a positive note, taking everything apart and redoing timing belt job is 5 times faster the second time so once you do the job once it's quite easy after that.

 
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I don't see why they would wear down over time unless something got loose and was rubbing against them. It shouldn't happen though.

That's the important thing. A replacement gear should solve your problem.

So true!

 
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For anyone wondering where to get a crank pulley removal tool here it is for $11.49 shipped:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/233627409485


Ps: my local pep boys loans them out but Autozone + Advance doesn't

 
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Btw, each end of tensioner spring is different so which side gets stretched to go over the pin? And does the open side of spring face toward or away from engine? I just read that having the spring installed wrong is thought to potentially cause the belt to get shredded by it.. Can someone post a pic or a diagram?

 
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Per the service manual:

 
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I had mine on the wrong way. Thanks for posting!

 
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big thing to pay attention to: how the hook is in the tensioner. With the diagram brotatochip posted, the open hook side of the spring is facing away from the belt. With it backwards, that "sharper" edge of the hook faces the belt, causing the potential for belt damage

 
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I got the new crank gear and no more problems with crank sensor. But now I have crankshaft seal problems. I replaced the front crank seal as preventive maintenance but damaged it during install. So I removed it and got another one today and looks like I already fouled that one up too. Is it ok to use oil around the outer perimeter of new seal so it pops in easier? Because I did grease the inside of it that touches the crankshaft but not the outside and now thinking it should go easier into place with some grease on it. The real problem is although I have large deep well sockets I don't have one that's quite deep enough to drive the seal in all the way. So what is the proper way to seat these seals?

Anyhow back to the store tomorrow and guess I'll buy 2 new seals just in case of more problems. This timing belt job is giving me fits now lol.

 
Rep Power: 225

If you don't have a socket big enough use something flat to push a section of the seal in a little at a time. I have used a block of wood to push in one side of a seal a little, then kept working my way around until the entire thing was seated.

A little bit of lubricant to get the seal to seat shouldn't hurt. You should be able to get it in without using any though.

 
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Never put a seal in dry

 
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what is the meaning of this?


oooowwww!

 
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I have broken this rule countless times lol. I always lube up the side that sees motion though.

 
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That's the important side, I always do both sides to help them seat

 
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I have coated the outside with WD-40 a handful of times to help seat. Most of the time I'm too lazy.

 
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Well, I got another crank seal and put some permatex ultra grey on outside and popped it in. Ran the engine in driveway, took crank pulley + gear off, inspected and it's bone dry. The key was finding something appropriate to tap it in to seat it without damaging seal like the first 2 times. Inspected new cam seal and that's good too.

So I solved my crank sensor and leaking seal problems (which i caused in the first place) BUT i broke the cam gear bolt and destroyed the cam end drilling it out in a futile attempt to remove the bolt.

Anyhow, I have to get another camshaft. With valve cover + timing belt off replacing the cam should be an easy job, right? Can someone give me tips on install? Where to get one? I looked on ebay and didn't see much accept a used one for 100 bux so maybe I should check local junkyards?

 
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bachands is doing similar at the same time as you

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...placement.html

car-part.com for local junkyards

 
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Junkyard would probably be under $20

 
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Nope, no help there for replacing just camshaft..

 
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Download the factory service manual yet?

 
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hunh...

search?

 
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I have the downloaded manual and also searched but not much luck for just a camshaft replacement. What I got so far from the manual is you're removing the ?rocker arm assembly? and then the camshaft comes out? Guess I'm worried about getting that assembly back in and having the valves operate properly afterwards.

I did watch this video on valve lash adjustment: According to the video you set the cam TDC and check valve clearance on cylinder 1 with a feeler gauge. counterrotate cam 1/4 turn and check cylinder 3, 1/4 turn then cylinder 4, another 1/4 turn then check cylinder 2. Procedure for setting valve adjustment height is easy enough to grasp.

I haven't looked much into replacing valve stems and don't know if I should worry about changing those although car has 190k miles on it. But if I was to change them the next obvious question is what else should be done? Replace valve springs? Anything else? Complete overhaul of cylinder head?? What are the common sense items to check or replace while I'm swapping in a used camshaft that's coming from a junkyard?

What I mean is I don't want to get carried away with unnecessary replacement parts because car runs very satisfactory now but don't want to overlook basic maintenance while I'm in there.

Tips on cam replacement are appreciated - keep in mind I already have valve cover + timing belt off.

Thanks for the help!