cooling fan frustration
i recently replaced my thermostat because the previous owner had incorrectly replaced it and it was leaking. Still over heating
i replaced the fan switch after bridging the plug to confirm relay, fuse and fan worked. Still overheating
i replaced the thermostat again because i thought it was a bad part and was stuck open. NO overheating
But i became concerned when the needle on the dash would not go past just shy of half way
i let it run in the drive way, i drove it, still the temp wouldnt raise high enough to turn the fans on
the temp sensor looks brand new and isnt throwing a code, fans still come on if i bridge the plug
am i better at fixing cars than i thought or am i sitting on a pressure cooker
any insight appreciated
i replaced the fan switch after bridging the plug to confirm relay, fuse and fan worked. Still overheating
i replaced the thermostat again because i thought it was a bad part and was stuck open. NO overheating
But i became concerned when the needle on the dash would not go past just shy of half way
i let it run in the drive way, i drove it, still the temp wouldnt raise high enough to turn the fans on
the temp sensor looks brand new and isnt throwing a code, fans still come on if i bridge the plug
am i better at fixing cars than i thought or am i sitting on a pressure cooker
any insight appreciated
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Re: cooling fan frustration
Doesn't take many overheats to warp the head out of clearance tolerance or cause a head gasket breech. At operating temp, idling, turn on the air conditioner and that should engage the radiator fan within a few minutes. Maybe the engine coolant temp (ECT) that screws into the cylinder head is faulty? Read for ECT testing: http://hondacivicrepairs.com/hard_st...%20Honda&id=44
If you haven't bled the coolant system of air it would be a good time to do that ASAP. Part of the bleed procedure is getting the radiator fan to engage.
1) raise front as high as possible on jackstands
2) set climate control to max heat, fan off
3) let idle until all bubbles dissipate and radiator fan engages at least once, twice preferably (roughly 20-25 minutes)
4) add coolant mix to radiator and reservoir as needed during bleed procedure
5) allow engine to cool completely and check radiator and reservoir level when car is level on ground before driving
Probably good to do Block Test as a first step (but not the last) to check for a potential blown head gasket.
If you haven't bled the coolant system of air it would be a good time to do that ASAP. Part of the bleed procedure is getting the radiator fan to engage.
1) raise front as high as possible on jackstands
2) set climate control to max heat, fan off
3) let idle until all bubbles dissipate and radiator fan engages at least once, twice preferably (roughly 20-25 minutes)
4) add coolant mix to radiator and reservoir as needed during bleed procedure
5) allow engine to cool completely and check radiator and reservoir level when car is level on ground before driving
Probably good to do Block Test as a first step (but not the last) to check for a potential blown head gasket.
Last edited by Wankenstein; Aug 7, 2020 at 06:48 PM.
Re: cooling fan frustration
Thank you for your help
so in step 3 the rad cap is off so i can see "bubble dissipation"?
and yes i believe the head gasket is bad. I plan to replace it, but still have to drive it for the next few months before i can do that. Will the bad head gasket
prevent the ect from working correctly if i keep feeding it coolant til i can fix it?
thatnks again
so in step 3 the rad cap is off so i can see "bubble dissipation"?
and yes i believe the head gasket is bad. I plan to replace it, but still have to drive it for the next few months before i can do that. Will the bad head gasket
prevent the ect from working correctly if i keep feeding it coolant til i can fix it?
thatnks again
OF top 99.5% creator (Formerly of the Puffinblunts variety)
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 3,634
Likes: 109
Rep Power: 211 










Re: cooling fan frustration
Thank you for your help
so in step 3 the rad cap is off so i can see "bubble dissipation"?
and yes i believe the head gasket is bad. I plan to replace it, but still have to drive it for the next few months before i can do that. Will the bad head gasket
prevent the ect from working correctly if i keep feeding it coolant til i can fix it?
thatnks again
so in step 3 the rad cap is off so i can see "bubble dissipation"?
and yes i believe the head gasket is bad. I plan to replace it, but still have to drive it for the next few months before i can do that. Will the bad head gasket
prevent the ect from working correctly if i keep feeding it coolant til i can fix it?
thatnks again
If the head gasket has the type of breach (see links in my signature) that allows exhaust emissions into the coolant that can potentially cause pockets of bubbles that could effect the ECT from sensoring correctly.
A block tester is a free rental from most parts stores. Will need a $10 bottle of block test fluid to put in the block tester. It will usually (but not always) detect emission gases in coolant to prove a head gasket breach.
If you need to drive it for a few months check the coolant level in the radiator and reservoir often., Also, drive with your climate control on max heat all the time. Fan on high at long stop lights or long periods of idling. On the highway you may not need the heat on. Keeping it on max heat can help to prevent an engine overheat situation that some head gasket breaches can cause.
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