05 civic timing belt replacement
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05 civic timing belt replacement
I am going to replace the timing belt, water pump and tensioner. I have watched a couple of videos and on both the crankshaft pulley was removed which is a lot of work. I have a Haynes and a Chilton manual and they both say if you don't have the special tool to remove the crankshaft pulley you can wedge a screwdriver between the starter and flywheel to prevent the crankshaft from moving off the timing marks. Has anyone done the repair by wedging a screwdriver between the starter and flywheel. Thanks for any help.
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No to answer your question.
Buy the Lisle crank shaft pulley socket is always an option assuming you have an impact.
Its really not that hard to get it off if you employ leverage. If I can do it....
If you haven't already and you are a diy non pro guy , which I assume you are you may want to watch piercedasian and ratchet and wrenches videos on 7th gen timing belts.
Good luck.
Buy the Lisle crank shaft pulley socket is always an option assuming you have an impact.
Its really not that hard to get it off if you employ leverage. If I can do it....
If you haven't already and you are a diy non pro guy , which I assume you are you may want to watch piercedasian and ratchet and wrenches videos on 7th gen timing belts.
Good luck.
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Re: 05 civic timing belt replacement
Yes, go with the crank bolt holder tool (free rental) at O' Really's, Advance and Autoboned. If you're considering buying an impact wrench Harbor Freight sells this one: https://www.harborfreight.com/85-amp...nch-64120.html . I purchased it a few months ago with a 20% off coupon and I can attest that (so far) it's solid. It's one drawback is it's length can make it hard to fit in some situations (insert dick joke) but that's not an issue for an axle nut removal. I used it to remove a lawn mower blade nut, strut/knuckle nuts and lug nuts. This driver didn't break a sweat on any of those.
If you go the breaker bar and socket route definitely use a jackstand to support the breaker bar/extension/socket set-up as shown in videos or write-ups. Use PB Blaster spray on the axle nut a few hours before removing. Use a long metal pipe or even a long, sturdy piece of PVC pipe to put over the end of the breaker bar. My fat *** weighs 235 and I had to stand on PVC extension to get the axle nut to break loose. Helps to have another breaker bar or similar long handle tool to attach to crank tool holder because that tool will be absorbing a lot of torque during the axle nut removal.
If you go the breaker bar and socket route definitely use a jackstand to support the breaker bar/extension/socket set-up as shown in videos or write-ups. Use PB Blaster spray on the axle nut a few hours before removing. Use a long metal pipe or even a long, sturdy piece of PVC pipe to put over the end of the breaker bar. My fat *** weighs 235 and I had to stand on PVC extension to get the axle nut to break loose. Helps to have another breaker bar or similar long handle tool to attach to crank tool holder because that tool will be absorbing a lot of torque during the axle nut removal.
Last edited by Wankenstein; Jul 15, 2020 at 05:59 PM.
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Yes, go with the crank holder tool (free rental) at O' Really's, Advance and Autoboned. If you're considering buying an impact wrench Harbor Freight sells this one: https://www.harborfreight.com/85-amp...nch-64120.html . I purchased it a few months ago with a 20% off coupon and I can attest that (so far) it's solid. It's one drawback is it's length can make it hard to fit in some situations (insert dick joke) but that's not an issue for an axle nut removal. I used it to remove a lawn mower blade nut, strut/knuckle nuts and lug nuts. This driver didn't break a sweat on any of those.
If you go the breaker bar and socket route definitely use a jackstand to support the breaker bar/extension/socket set-up as shown in videos or write-ups. Use PB Blaster spray on the axle nut a few hours before removing. Use a long metal pipe or even a long, sturdy piece of PVC pipe to put over the end of the breaker bar. My fat *** weighs 235 and I had to stand on PVC extension to get the axle nut to break loose. Helps to have another breaker bar or similar long handle tool to attach to crank tool holder because that tool will be absorbing a lot of torque during the axle nut removal.
If you go the breaker bar and socket route definitely use a jackstand to support the breaker bar/extension/socket set-up as shown in videos or write-ups. Use PB Blaster spray on the axle nut a few hours before removing. Use a long metal pipe or even a long, sturdy piece of PVC pipe to put over the end of the breaker bar. My fat *** weighs 235 and I had to stand on PVC extension to get the axle nut to break loose. Helps to have another breaker bar or similar long handle tool to attach to crank tool holder because that tool will be absorbing a lot of torque during the axle nut removal.
more on the breaker bar extension. I personally used the lever for my hydraulic jack slipped over the end of my 14" 1/2-drive breaker bar.
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HR,
Thanks for the info. Sorry I took so long to reply. I tried to break the bolt loose yesterday with a socket and several i/2 extensions supported on a jackstand and a 3/4 ratchet and It snapped off the end of one of the extensions. The extensions were generic. I will replace them with Craftsman and try again. I saw quite a few videos on how to remove the nut so this is a big problem on Honda engines that turn counterclockwise. I have an air impact gun which I will try also.
Thanks for the info. Sorry I took so long to reply. I tried to break the bolt loose yesterday with a socket and several i/2 extensions supported on a jackstand and a 3/4 ratchet and It snapped off the end of one of the extensions. The extensions were generic. I will replace them with Craftsman and try again. I saw quite a few videos on how to remove the nut so this is a big problem on Honda engines that turn counterclockwise. I have an air impact gun which I will try also.
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I meant the holder tool for the crank pulley bolt. Jackstand to support the breaker bar/extension/socket during crank bolt removal.
Yes, not sure why I mentioned an axle nut in my previous post..lol. OP: Spray PB on crank pulley bolt.
Speaking of axle nuts I've recently learned that removing, and especially installing a wheel hubs assembly with an impact wrench can cause CV axle shock (whatever the f**k that is?). I've known for years to stalling a wheel hub to use a torque wrench only on the axle nut to avoid over-tightening but never knew an impact wrench can possibly cause damage the cv axle.
Yes, not sure why I mentioned an axle nut in my previous post..lol. OP: Spray PB on crank pulley bolt.
Speaking of axle nuts I've recently learned that removing, and especially installing a wheel hubs assembly with an impact wrench can cause CV axle shock (whatever the f**k that is?). I've known for years to stalling a wheel hub to use a torque wrench only on the axle nut to avoid over-tightening but never knew an impact wrench can possibly cause damage the cv axle.
Last edited by Wankenstein; Jul 15, 2020 at 06:12 PM.
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For the crank pulley bolt I use an impact rated 1/2" drive 19mm socket, a 6" impact rated 1/2" drive extension, an impact rated 3/4" to 1/2" drive adapter, a regular 16" 3/4" drive extension, 3/4" drive 2' breaker bar with a 4' cheater pipe on the end supported with a jack underneath. Never had any issues getting them loose this way.
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