Rep Power: 0

So on my 2002 civic,manual transmission, whenever i adjusted the valve they always shift afterwards. Here is how i get it done. After taking off the valve cover I find cylinder #1 by turning the crankshaft counter clockwise then check the clearance withe correct feeler gauge then if it needs adjustment i proceed, after i adjusted one i hold the screw driver tight to make sure it doesn't move when drawing on the nut.i tighten it enough so it doesn't move when i torque it down then move to cylinder#3 with same steps by turning the crank again to find TDC. After I'm done i torque them down 15 ft pound. When I'm done with all four,i turned the crank over a few times and and rechecked them with feeler gauge but there was always a few that move,how they move i dont know. I correct them turn the crank again and rechecked them, some still move, i correct them and rechecked again. Put everything back together and in a about a weak or two, check them again like i was told by mechanic to check them after i few weeks and some of them always shift. What causing them to move after so much corrections? I always torque them down each time i finished with one before i move to the next one.

 
Rep Power: 221

Torque them tighter, try 20-25 ft-lbs

 
Rep Power: 0

wow.that might Ruing the threadings.colin. i think the book said 15 ft pound.
and i dont want to mess up them. I want to readjust them. I put them at 0.009 intake and exhaust 0.0011.i i preferred 0.008 intake
0.009 exhaust slight drag.

 
Rep Power: 221

An extra 5 ft-lbs is not going to ruin the threads, your torque wrench is probably not even that accurate at the lower end of the scale

 
Rep Power: 0

ok.i will see next time.

 
Rep Power: 209

I tighten them by the feel..never had an issue of them loosening.

 
Rep Power: 0

no no, is not they got loos. Its just the space between the valve stems and the rocker arms got tighter or a little loose.

 
Rep Power: 223

Are you accurately getting each piston at TDC? Using a rod or screwdriver in the spark plug hole may not be accurate enough. Are you using a wrench to hold while tightening the nut with a socket or something?

 
Rep Power: 209

That's odd. Maybe worn valve springs or rocker issue? https://mooregoodink.com/valve-sprin...lpful-details/

 
Rep Power: 0

Ok..i was thinking if i adjusted the intake at 0.007 and Exhaust 0.008 it maybe to close. Because if they are two close they wont open wide enough and also close all all the way. Also maybe burn out the valve stem over time. It may vibrate if they are too tight to
the intake valves always giiiive me one pain in the neck to adjust.they always move when i draw on the lock nut,no matter how i hold the screw driver steady in place they move.the Exhaust side adjust very easy.

 
Rep Power: 209

Set at highest end of spec ranges for both intake and exhaust. Better loose (within range) than tight as valves tighten with use/miles.

Intake: 0.18 - 0.22 mm (0.007 - 0.009 inch)
Exhaust: 0.23 - 0.27 mm (0.009 - 0.011 inch)

 
Rep Power: 0

thats the specific clearance i have on those. So i should keep it at 0.009 intake and 0.0010 Exhaust?

 
Rep Power: 209

typo: 0.0010. Probably, if you set exhaust at 0.010 but my assumption is most people set their's in correlation as follows:
I = .007 E = .009
I = .008 E = .010
I = .009 E = .011

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