Rep Power: 0

Okay so, I bought this '04 Civic EX 4 Door. D17A2 5 Speed. When I first bought it. Everything seemed perfect. A/C worked (First time A/C in a Civic owner LOL), Cruize Works, Windows, Sunroof, Blah Blah Blah.

Get home with it. Get it legal the next day. Did some basic mods to it (Because Rice. I'm 21. It's a given) basic Amazon Bolt-on Fart Cannon Cat-back Exhaust, Amazon Special Cold Air. stopped there cause didn't want to go full rice right away.

Went out riding, Figured I'd get it on the highway, See what she can do. (Last Civic I owned was a 5 speed D15B7, MAJOR Improvement I must say) However; Floored it in 3rd, and it starts governing at 3-4k RPM. HUH?! Not kool, I just bought this thing for 2,200. Engine Light is on, and that's it.

I did notice when I bought it though, I have lots of back pressure in my radiator, even if it's cold, if I take my Radiator cap off? its blasting coolant everywhere. However it does NOT smoke or loose coolant. and it DOES blow heat, and keeps me nice and warm! no cold air when set to hot. BUT, the thermos gage does NOT work, so I had to install an aftermarket one. which tells me an accurate reading. My dad works at a shop and we hooked it up to his SnapOn code scanner, and the car would engage the coolant fans at 210 Degrees, then allow the thermostat to open, blah blah. Stock D17 things, right?

how TF do I get it to NOT rev limit between 3-4K. I took the VTEC Sel. off and the screen was really clean, the motor has 150K original miles on it. an Older gentleman had it before me. one owner. He loved it but was getting up in age and no longer wanted to mess with it. I'm just hoping I'm not going to ruin my motor (As if you'd seen my last 5 civics.... you would know I'm good at popping D series like balloons) So what's the (Hopefully cheapest) way to fix it, or where should I start?

(GOING TO MY DADS SHOP TOMORROW -Monday April 27th- TO FIND A CODE FOR BETTER DIAGNOSTICS) (P.s. I do my own work to my cars, I worked my *** off to get every car I've ever had. No I'm not getting by on Daddies money. He's just a mechanic but I don't let him do the work, because what's the fun in owning a car if you can't be the one to work on it??)

 
Rep Power: 222

How's the oil level? Did the previous owner have any work done before you bought it?

 
Rep Power: 224

Let us know the codes, you're in limp mode for some reason.

Also keep an eye on the coolant levels. Head gaskets are common.

 
Rep Power: 0

There is a very slow oil leak. as in, I've had this and daily drive it for.... a month going on two? and I just recently needed to add a quarter of a quart to it.

The only thing the other owner did was get the timing belt changed at the Honda dealership at 140K miles. I personally love doing head gaskets and Timing belts. Had to do them SO many times on my last D series. Wonder if maybe I shouldn't just redo the timing chain myself.

 
Rep Power: 0

So the codes I got are

P2646: A Rocker Arm Actuator Control System Performance/ Stuck Off (Bank 1)
P0141: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below threshold/ Bank 1
(All Confirmed and Current)

 
Rep Power: 0

The fart cannon and cold air (biggest scam of all time) is not only full rice but you are out there walking in the paddies spanking the rice plants with cane! I am going to give you the best advice someone once gave me... take your money like this rice money is perfect example and put it in a Roth IRA. NOW! Do it all the time!.
I am no expert, but I would test the catalytic converter (take temp readings) and get the valve cover off and have a look around. I am sure the experienced folks here will give you a good starting point. Good Luck. Get that **** off of your car.

 
Rep Power: 228

Did you delete the cat? Did you install the rear O2, was it damaged?

 
Rep Power: 0

No, beand new high-flow Cat. Just screwed the O2 sens. Into the spot for it on the aftermarket exhaust.

 
Rep Power: 518

FIX THIS CODE FIRST

Stop wasting money on useless crap. until this is solved
Oil pressure at high rpm is the associated problem, for some reason there isn't enough pressure in the vtec system while it's engaged
Does the cylinder head look fresh and clean? Did it get a head gasket job? Engine?
(one random looking bolt in the head is actually very critical, and I think on some versions the single wire for the vtec solenoid can get mixed up with an inline connector for the regular single wire oil switch nearest the oil filter)

You wouldn't believe how many vtec codes end up fixed with a simple Honda oil filter lol