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never done it myself,

but i have read that many people remove the head with the intake still attached

 
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I have removed the head with the intake manifold attached, I thought it was easier than removing the intake first.

 
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Wow, good to know! So encouraging! Oh- once I loosen those 2 (?) bolts from under car, will the bracketry come up with the entire manifold without much trouble? Leaving work early now, going home to tackle the project......

 
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I'm struggling to remember what the intake manifold brackets look like, I've only worked on maybe five of these engines. If I'm remembering correctly there are two brackets, I think I took the three bolts off that bolt it to the block. After that you'll have to deal with miscellaneous hoses and harnesses but the brackets will then come up with the manifold.

 
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Very helpful, Bro. Thanks.

 
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Got it all out OK. Gasket appears NOT to be busted, although, as a DIY not sure. I will try to post a pic. OOzing from vtec solenoid. But that was so imposible to view with all the junk in the way. I think based on this close inspection that ezone, Mac, and mickey, and others were right, and gave good, invaluable advice. Thanks, people.

But now, gonna redo all seals while its alll out. And check for flat head surface, just in case.

How do you unbolt cam sprocket? (how do you hold it down whilst turning bolt)?

Thanks.

 
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The following is optional but with head off you may want consider bringing it to a machine shop to get it inspected for valve leaks, cracks and warpage. Also, would be a good time for new valve stem seals.

 
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i normally loosen the cam bolt before i take the timing belt off, that holds it still,

i remember reading somewhere that there is a spot near the sprocket to insert a screwdriver to hold it still,

worst case you could put a long screwdriver through the sprocket and have it resting where the valve cover gasket would be, just be careful not to scratch the surface.....that bolt isn't really that tight (in my experience), i think i put some locktite on mine when i did it back up after hearing a few stories of people having that bolt come loose, in any case, i would recommend a torque wrench on that bolt

 
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Right- valve stem seals came with my kit. And definitely check for warpage. Done them before. Know how to remove cam sprocket?

 
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As a driveway mechanic, you could put the valve cover back on, put a blanket on the ground, place the head upside down on the ground, wrap the timing belt back around the sprocket, step on the free play part of the belt as close as you can to the sprocket and then loosen the bolt.

Any any sort of decent impact gun likely could loosen the bolt without even holding the sprocket, it’s not high torque.

Do watch out for that sprocket, those edges are crazy sharp.

 
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Back to that leaker , there are actually 2 gaskets that should be replaced on vtec , search the forum for the hard to find part number for the inner one.

 
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Riiight, slump! Good point! Thanks! Goofy that neither came with the head gasket set. Maybe thats normal(?). I mean, why would anyone not want to reseal those things when doing a job like this one.

 
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not every engine has vtec...
and they're dealer only parts

 
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Did you get the head gasket set from a Honda dealer?


Cam gear: Prybar or large screwdriver thru an opening and against the head flat surface, to stop the pulley from rotating while you break the bolt loose. Might want another person as well to hold it
But unless you really need it off like to replace the seal, there's probably not really a reason to take it off.
If a machine shop needs to mill the head flat, they would probably loosen all of the rocker shaft bolts so the valves aren't in the way.

 
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Sorry, mickey, somehow I missed your reply before posting another to do with exactly what you explained. Good tips. I thought of removing it before yanking the timing belt but decided to do after. Oh well......

 
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No, not a honda dealer. someone else in the parts business. All looks good except no vtec solenoid seal. Again, maybe it's not the usual part included. Id hate top pay $$$ from a dealer. Usually buy from Rock Auto but this time an Amazon supplier, advertized as a Honda Parts supplier. But I respect your tenancy for dealer quality. Also, dealer is not close to me, have to drive a distance.


Anyway, ezone, Maybe I wont remove it, as you say. The cam seal is not leaking. BUT, new problem- I just viewed the under side of the cylinder at the valves and unbelieveable- 3 valves are not closed!! What the heck??? Now what? Good thing I took this apart, even though, looking like it was the solenoid seal, but now Ive exposed something unusual, and bad. Does this mean bad springs? b ad valve stem? Now looks like I do have to remove sprocket, and inspect every valve??.

 
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At any position, some valves are open. That’s why it’s practically impossible,to not bend some valves when the timing belt breaks.

Dont bend those valves by dropping the head down on your workbench..

 
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Really Slump? I didnt know. Isnt that weird? Is it kind of random, which valve (s) are open? Is has to be the valves on the piston cycle that is not combusting, right? otherwise we would have open valves and wouldnt get good combustion........If that is the case, WHEW! Now I can proceed to go forward.

 
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There's nothing random about it

 
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OK, good to know. Im glad I didnt have some kind of major project to fix. Thanks.

 
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you valves are opening and closing in a certain sequence depending on the position of the crank,

the only time all 4 valves are closed completely in the same cylinder is when that piston is at TDC on the compression stroke

 
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Thanks, mickey. More education on these civics. Good to know, I guess if Im curious I can rotate the sprocket, and observe what happens at each cylinder. Firing order based on a site is 1-2-3-4 starting from sprocket side cylinder (if Im wrong, please advise). Clockwise, turning sprocket, every 90 degrees should produce an up/down of piston, I think...........

You know, that engine was working perfectly fine before I yanked the head. All should be in working order as it sits. It was just that awfully hard to find oil leak.

 
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Firing order is 1-3-4-2, cylinder 1 is on the timing belt side.

 
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getting ready to put back cylinder head and just noticed the fluid between the cylinders and engine block space is oily, so I placed a narrow tube down in there, and sucked out from the bottom. I retrieved mostly greenish coolant. But the top layer is oil. Is that normal? I doubt it, people. Where might have this come from? The gasket didnt appear burt/broken, as you might recall.......




Is there now a block drain plug I should open and drain all this gunk out before putting back the head?




Thanks, people.

 
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Oil got into the water jacket while removing the head is what I'm assuming you meant. There should be a block drain on the backside of the block close to the oil filter I believe. But the little bit that got in there is probably nothing to worry about.

 
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Again, oil floats on top of the coolant or water.

Oil spills into the jacket when you lift and remove the cylinder head.
Liquid also gets into the head bolt holes in the block, you must remove all liquid from those bolt holes before reassembly, else you risk fracturing the block casting when you try to tighten the head bolts.


For both issues you mentioned, I use a fluid extractor similar to a one-man brake bleeder setup
The block drain can be a PITA,
I would float the oil up and skim it off with the extractor then follow with brake cleaner


If the water pump was gonna be replaced that would be the same as opening a block drain

 
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Thanks, Bro and ezone. Yes, I was struggling by myself, lifting both head and intake attached, so probably spilled some down there. Will get it out maybe by siphon, going down all the way to the bottom. Yes, avoid messing with drain plug. Meanwhile,people, struggling big time with timing belt tensioner. Yikes!!!!! I even tried to understand the steps in the Haynes Comic Book. Useless. I c ant get the timing belt on. Haynes says to loosen the bolt, for what reason I dont understand as it does nothing for me. I also tried to pull back tensioner using the 6mm allen wrench, counter clockwise, but it wont loosen up the tensioner enough. Initially, when I took the belt off all I did was use the 6mm allen wrench in that hex slot, CCW, and it was enough to loosen belt but why now it isnt enough to get it back on? I can not proceed unless I figure this out. I am actuallly STUCK. Stupid tensioner.

 
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If you loosen the bolt the tensioner spins on, and remove the spring it should let you remove the belt.

 
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Thanks, Mac. What does 'spins on" mean?

 
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But meanwhile, I got the belt on!! Miraculously! So now, Haynes and other sources say turn crank CCW, but how can I do this as when I put on the socket to crank bolt it loosens when turned CCW. So how can I turn CCW? Thanks!