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My son's timing belt broke on the interstate. He said it lurched a bit and quit, but no loud noises. It happened on the way to family, and we hadn't left yet, so I brought all my tools and set about replacing his timing belt the day after tgiving. I got it all on, and it started and ran, but very very rough and a bit of noise on the top end. I assumed I had the timing off, so I took it all apart and tried again. This time, no start, and some loud backfiring. Gave up and towed it back to my house.

I know the valves could very well be bent, but over the weekend,I was just trying to see if a new belt would fix it. Now that it's at a more permanent place, I am going to try and tackle this more completely.
1) Should I just assume the valves are messed up and take the head off at this point?
2) Is it safe to get heads off of ebay?

Thanks for any pointers or input

 
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The chances of the valves being ok are basically zero. Pull the head, buy some new valves/guides, and take it to a machine shop to be fixed. I wouldn't buy a replacement head.

 
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even the refurbished heads?

 
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I don't know the cost of a refurbished head but valves and guides are not that expensive.

Also if you wanted to confirm bent valves you can run a compression test. Make sure the timing is correct first though.

 
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I'll definitely check the compression - thanks for bringing that up. The reburb heads on ebay are $360 or so. I'm trying to figure out from them what all is done for their refurbishment.

 
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Spray and pray rebuild !!!
(spray paint used part silver so it looks nice.....pray it works........ profit)


I'd sure bet some are bent. Don't know how many, but some are.

You could pull the valve cover off and check valve clearances--- in the same manner one would actually adjust valves, except you'd only be counting how many have a gap that's a mile wide.
You gotta pull the valve cover off to pull the head anyway.

I'd just get some fresh valves installed in the old head, and it probably didn't hurt the guides at all.
Let the machine shop do it and call it a day.

 
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will definitely check valve clearances. ebay machine shop sent me this:
"Valves are cleaned, inspected and reused. Replaced with new only if necessary. Exhaust guides are new. Core is broken down checked for cracks. Repaired if necessary. New exhaust guides are installed. Thread holes chased. Head is resurfaced then reassembled."

 
Rep Power: 519

So it's a used head pulled off a junkyard engine, that's been cleaned in a hot tank. Maybe more.
Cracking was not a common problem.
Many machine shops can't get the surface finish smooth enough, which can cause more problems. (I seriously cringe whenever I have to send one out to be resurfaced)
I have a feeling most people wouldn't be able to tell if guides were actually replaced or not.
You could probably yank a head off a used engine yourself at the you pull it yard even cheaper LOL

IMO You're probably better off fixing the head you already have. A few valves plus the machine shop fee is probably quite a bit less than your ebay head of questionable quality.
Machine shop can get new valves cheaper than the dealer sells them for.

If you buy the complete head gasket set from Honda, it comes with a set of valve stem seals (send them to the machine shop along with the head)
You gotta buy a gasket set anyway....We recommend the head gasket from Honda, not aftermarket


If it's never been overheated, the head won't need resurfaced.
Measuring the head for flatness will prove one way or the other.

 
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thanks. i think i'm convinced to go new valve route. hopefully not too many need replacing.

 
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I had a timing belt disaster on my 2002. TDC sensor vibrated itself loose 2000 miles after a headgasket job and got caught between the belt and the pulley, shredding the belt, leaving only 1/4" thickness left. Bent all 16 valves.

Luckily I had a spare engine block that I harvested a head from, brought it into the only machine shop I trusted and they checked the head for me (actually brought me to the back to explain the process they use to deck heads vs other shops -- an actual mill instead of sanding it flat). Also had them check and hone the valve guides for me for good measure. They only charged me $100 to do all that. If you're going the DIY route, you're gonna need the big c-clamp looking valve spring compressor. The cheesy overhead one you can find at autozone doesn't work. Took me 3 hours driving around town to find a shop that had one for sale.

Just thought I'd give you insight to my experience with it.

 
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Is there any way to turn over the starter with the car in drive? My driveway is somewhat inclined and I don't have nearby help to push this civic up to my garage opening.

 
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it's an automatic, so i guess i'll have to try something else. maybe a trailer winch on a couple 2x6's across the mouth of the garage....

 
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I put a socket on the axle nut and use a big breaker bar to move a dead car by myself. Move it a little then put a 2x4 behind the wheel to stop it rolling, reset socket and go again.

 
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genius! thanks! it doesn't loosen the axle nut?

 
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If you're moving the car uphill and forward use the passenger side axle nut, if you're moving the car uphill and backwards use the driver's side. That will tighten the nut instead of loosening it.

 
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doh. sorry, kinda slow today. thanks again.

 
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Block and tackle?
Push it with another car?

Get the neighbors to help push it?

 
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Update: I went with a refurbished head. I would have had to wait for the valves and other parts to come, then do all the work. Son couldn't be without the car that long. But I didn't go Ebay route. Did some looking and found CylinderHeads International in Texas. Good reviews and good work. The head was in excellent condition. Car is running and back in use. $300 was worth it for me.

 
Rep Power: 120