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Alright, car is currently in the shop right now getting some new tires, and I had them take a look at everything else. Only problem they could find is the cracked exhaust manifold. They wanted $1200 to fix it. Yeah right!



Taking a look at the various threads throughout this forum, I am thinking I can do this myself.

First things first, ordering a repair manual. Hayes repair manual
Ordering a new manifold/gasket
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...2BAir%2BFilter

I am thinking the 4th(#101304) listed from ATP will work well. Please let me know if there is a better choice available. Amazon has it a little cheaper and free 2 day shipping (TY PRIME).


Things I will need in addition:
pb blaster (and patience!)
socket and wrench sets
This is where you come in. What else do I need?

Will I need to jack up my car for this? I do not have a jack at my house, but I can easily get one if needed.



Thank you for helping another noob get started in car repairs!

 
Rep Power: 512

The thing that makes the exhaust manifold so expensive is that the dx/lx has the catalytic converter integrated into the exhaust manifold. Other than that, it should be 5 threaded fasteners (10 or 12mm, i forgot which) that connect it to the head, 2 spring bolts to the mid-pipe, and the o2 sensor. Also, a flathead screwdriver to remove the bumper clips.

a socket set and a combo wrench set should be about it, other than the obvious replacement gaskets and whatnot. You're gonna wanna jack up the front end of your car to access the bolts that connect the exhaust manifold to the mid pipe.. It'll make the job much easier.

A bit of antiseize on the threads will do you a lot of good to set yourself up for the future, just in case you have to remove it again

 
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Thanks for the reply. Anti sieze will be added to the list. Also, do you recommend a jack and stands, or ramps? Ramps are about $40, while a decent jack looks to be about $80 and stands are $25. Let me know if these prices seem reasonable for decent quality stuff. I just checked harbor freight for those prices.

 
Rep Power: 518

Park with 2 wheels up on a curb so you can slide your body under the front of the car.

 
Rep Power: 190

Get a breaker bar or a longer ratchet. If it's anything like mine was-those bolts are rusted on and lodged in place by the exhaust heat. Just be careful not to snap one. Also had to cut off the heat shield since the bolts were too badly corroded.

 
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Update: Got the heat shield off and the three bolts that hold it to the block. What worked for me was these: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog.../category/427/

I had sprayed the bolts a ton with pb blaster multiple times. I hammered the bolt extractor onto the bolts after running a brush over them to remove rust. On the middle one, I had to use an extender to give my breaker bar room. I am pretty confident I can finish this up in about 3 hours tomorrow. The bolts below are pretty rusted, but I believe I can just cut them off. I have a dremel ready if those bolts give me to many problems.



Parts list:
PB Blaster:
Manifold:
Anti-seize:
Extractor bolts: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog.../category/427/

Breaker bar: http://www.harborfreight.com/38-driv...bar-67931.html

Ratchet set

wire brush

jack

jack stands

02 sensor remover: loaned from O Reilly's

Hammer

 
Rep Power: 518

I hope this pic isn't what they actually sent.

How long before their cheapie pops a P0420 code?

 
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^^ That one may have a little problem with, oh maybe the wrong amount of cylinders