Rep Power: 0

Hello!
I have a 2003 Civic Sport with the 1.7L engine (non-vtec) 5 speed manual.
After doing some research on this site, I have found the most common solution to code P0336 is to replace the sensor.
The car seems to only "buck" when it is around 3000 RPMs, and more commonly when the engine is warm. Over the past two weeks, the engine light would come on, and go off, at random. This would suggest to me that the sensor is still working from time to time, as the bucking is not constant, and sometimes the car will run fine for days at a time.
I did have the timing belt replaced, and have also read that removing the sensor plug as opposed to removing the whole sensor is not a good idea (too late now).
Before I pay for more labour to have the whole engine torn apart again to have the sensor replaced, is there anything else that can cause this to happen? Such things as old plugs, wires, or anything of that nature?
I am only asking because it seems as though most people posting with this problem have constant issues with their crankshaft position sensor, where my light will come on and go off.
I drive the car everyday, with almost identical driving patterns and conditions, just to nullify that it may be the distance from day to day, or engine warmth from day to day, causing the sensor to come on or turn off.
Thanks for your help, and I apologize for the somewhat repetitive question.

I also should ask if there is any way the timing could be off, even though the idling, as well as acceleration (with exception when it bucks) is perfectly fine. Is there any way at higher RPMs that the timing could affect this code / engine malfunction at random intermittent times?
Rae

 
Rep Power: 233

Sounds like the connector is loose. Unfortunately you can't get to it to test it without taking off the timing covers. Sorry

 
Rep Power: 0

Brought it to my mechanic, whom also spoke w/ a Honda Certified mechanic. For those of you out there wondering why not to unplug the crankshaft sensor cable, and to just take out the WHOLE sensor itself when doing a timing belt (indicated on the wonderful DIY), is likely due to corrosion. I say likely because there may be other possible reasons as well. When unplugging, the connection then gets compromised, leading to the likelihood of having to replace the whole sensor (seeing as how removing corrosion from that location is very difficult, and sometimes may not even be curable).
My mechanic has taken off as much corrosion as he could without having to spend too much time on it, and now I wait and see if it will be enough to keep my car running smooth!
So, in closing my issue appears to be corrosion, which may or may not be curable, just o let other out there know!

 
Rep Power: 233

^^ Excellent info, especially for a new poster. +1

 
Rep Power: 0

I have a 2001 that I did a headgasket and put a new crank shaft sensor and the car set and when I got the car done the po336 code came up I was so mad so I was going to buy a new sensor so I wanted to try one more thing . So I cleaned where the crank plugs in with electronic cleaner and then put some electronic grease and the code went away and runs great.

 
Rep Power: 0

Remember fellow civic owners, whenever you remove the crank shaft pos sensor or the camshaft sensor you have to have the crank variance relearn procedure done. The Haynes manual describes how to do it but really never works, so it's best to take it into Honda and tell them you need a crank variance relearn done and if they ask why tell them you removed, replaced, or unplugged the crankshaft pos sensor or the camshaft sensor. They will hook it up to a scanner tool that's alot better than autozones obdII reader and they will fix it for you. It will only cost around $55 bucks plus tax. . Hope this helps you all out.

P.S. Let me know how it goes with the outcome. I still need to get mine in and have it done but lack the funds lol

 
Rep Power: 517

Congrats on opening a thread that is over a year old.
Does NOT apply to this car/engine.
But I'd gladly collect your money for it anyway. I'll even hide your car for 45 minutes while you wait on it.

 
Rep Power: 0

I hate to bump the thread, but I have a very similar problem.

I have a 2003 LX manual that I bought at 120k. The timing belt went out at 125k and I got it replaced 4 weeks ago. All worked fine until saturday when my car started, and died at a stop sign a block away. Wouldn't start, so let it cool off (it was 103 outside). An hour later it started after gassing it a little, and since then I have had CEL and occasionally difficulties starting, difficulties with it dying right after it starts, and a bit of sporadic bucking around 2000 rpm. Got it tested and popped P0336.

I am not particularly mechanically skilled so a few questions:
1) are there potential issues (like listed above) that I can check myself (or reasonably ask mechanically skilled friends to do in trade)
2) is it possible/likely that this is a result of a poorly done timing belt job... I read somewhere a mention on that.
3) most importantly, any suggestions for what I should try first if I can't do it myself.

 
Rep Power: 517

Most common that I see is the corrosion inside the CKP sensor connector and on the wire terminals of the harness connector that was mentioned here: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...ml#post4536074

Seems to be sort of common after someone yanks the water pump off and the coolant drains all over the crank sensor and its wiring.

The CKP sensor and its wiring:

The wire connector unplugs right at that sensor, you should be barely able to unplug it without removing the timing cover, crank pulley, or the belts. (But if it needs replaced, all that stuff has to come off.)

I couldn't find a pic of the actual CKP connector, but here is a random that shows some corrosion on the wiring terminals.....

Remember: anything other than clean shiny metal is probably bad.
And if you see this on the wire terminals inside the connector when you unplug it, then the same thing is happening in the other half: the crank sensor itself. BOTH need attention.



The rest of the testing is using a voltmeter-- making certain there is a ground, 12v, and 5v on the 3 wires in that connector, (if you have a labscope you could go farther with this)
then throwing parts at it either the CKP sensor or the PCM.

HTH

 
Rep Power: 0

thanks ezone.

The sensor on mine was not corroded and the voltages were good (although i was definitely reading ground, 5 and 13 volts).

I ended up having the mechanic who did the timing belt replace the sensor. I was surprised it took him less than a half hour, and the replacement has fixed the problem.

 
Rep Power: 0

Ok so I understand is a really old thread but I have this same problem, I changed the crankshaft pos sen 2 times and still got po 336 also cleaned and greese plug same code went ahead and purchased a new plug replaced it and still got the code and will not go pass 3k rpm. New plugs new coil pacs and fairly New camshaft pos sen too,, also Replaced PCM same, what else is there I actually unplugged just about every plug cleaned and greese and nothing still the same. I am about to throw a match down the gas tank is driving me crazy... help help help

 
Rep Power: 221

OEM or aftermarket sensors?

 
Rep Power: 0

they were aftermarket i actually went and got OEMs and that fixed it. Thanks