Rep Power: 0

I have replaced the alternator (twice, first time is when I'm sure this mess started, second time was yesterday, but first checked voltage on battery and alternator, tightened and cleaned battery cables, checked fuses in both boxes, one more thing of note is that there was a spark coming off the alternator yesterday, before alternator was replaced. Car ran great for about two mins after that then went right back to it within one mile so that's why alternator was replaced yesterday (had lifetime warranty):, The "alternator connector" which has four wires, was bad looking but my friend tried his best to make it work until I get a new one, and of course a new one is not in stock and I gotta drive four hours away to pick it up to have it for tomorrow, ugh....anyways soon as i started my car after alt. replacement, it went between the battery light being on and the CEL being on about 15 times during which I could hear relays clicking by the glove box...never were the two lights on at same time, and engine revved and just about died in sync with the lights and clicks. Also, key immobilizer light was flashing up until yesterday when alt got done. Oh and tach and temp don't work when CEL on (limp mode) but did when the battery light was on.
OH, and negative battery cable is to be replaced today as it is in bad condition. Positive now after reminded of details of first fix, that it was the bolt incorrectly put on that started this. Oh, and tranny clanks into the few gears that work when CEL on, quiet when it was just battery light. And, P R N don't work when CEL on, but all light up on dash when is only battery light on. Ugh. So plan is to replace alternator connector and negative cable and go from there. Any ideas?

 
Rep Power: 224

Is a code reader able to connect and read faults?

Check alternator mounting bolts, all three need to be tight. One on the top, one from the alternator to the bracket (not the wingnut), one from the bracket to the block.