Rep Power: 0

Hi All. Hoping someone has an idea of what's going on with this weird electrical issue. Honda Civic 2004 sedan LX. 82K miles.

A while back I had my Timing belt replaced. The garage that did it broke the screw in the alternator and had to replace that too. (didn't charge labor, but did charge me an extra $125 for the part, which is now not an OEM part :/ ) About two weeks later my battery died. I thought it may be just a coincidence and bought a new battery. Battery died again within a few days. I called the garage and brought the car back to them, thinking the alternator they installed was defective or not connected correctly. (brought battery back to PepBoys and they replaced it, thinking it was defective) I made it to the garage, and it died out front. They found the problem was that the 80 amp power distribution fuse blew. Car was fine after that for a few months.

Just a couple weeks ago the battery light started coming on. At first it was only when i hit the gas. I brought it to a different garage next day. When they checked it out, the battery light did not come on once for them, of course. They tested electrical and said everything checks out. (battery was perfect. alternator is charging, no loose connections, etc) Their best guess was either some known alternator problem of a diode that goes bad causing the battery light to come on, or the ELD. Car ran fine after that but the battery light has been coming on and off almost everyday. Once in a while it doesn't come on. But usually it does, then goes off after about 10 minutes of driving. It no longer comes on just from hitting the gas.

Today I drove about 20 minutes and the battery light was on most of that ride. Parked the car. Came back about 20 minutes later and started the car. It struggled to start, but did. I drove a few blocks and noticed the RPM needle was not moving, then noticed the gas showed empty (it was a full tank). The dash was still lit. Then everything came back to life. Needles were back to normal. Battery light was then off. Drove the car another 20 minutes.

So that is where I'm at now. One thing to mention, which may somehow be related is that I tried to get my AC fixed a few months ago, before the battery light problem started. I say "tried" because I brought it to PepBoys and they could not fix it. They said the compressor seems fine and I don't need freon, and it seems to be a problem with the control panel, which they can't get parts for. Everything on the control panel works, as far as turning the fan on, heat/cold dial, rear defroster buttons, etc. AC button lights up but ya don't feel the compressor kick in. Not sure if this is in some way related, but found it weird that the AC seems to be some kind of electrical problem and I'm also having the battery light problem, and that 80A fuse that blew, which from what I've read almost never happens.

Thoughts? ELD? Something else? But can the ELD cause the dash needles to temporarily die like that, and the car to almost not start?

 
Rep Power: 517

If the battery is weak, connect a battery charger or use jumpers


connect your code reader or scanner to the data link
Does it communicate with the engine computer?

 
Rep Power: 223

Something we see often is loose alternator mounting bolts and corroded contact surfaces. Causes battery light, dying batteries, even fried ECU's.