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I'm buying a 2017 Civic Hatchback EX-L with Navigation and Sensing tomorrow. I had him take it to a dealership and these are the error codes that are present on the car. It seems like alot but I don't know what they mean. Is this alarming? Btw the car only has 500 miles. I highly doubt anything is wrong but I'd rather be safe than sorry!
Jesus, that's quite the list for a car that only has 500 miles on it. My 2018 has 2000-2500 miles on it with zero DTCs
Here's my take based on the codes provided, descriptions, listed by systems affected:
PGM-FI: Gas pedal sensor issue
CVT: Transmission lost communication/not communicating with ECM/PCM (engine/propulsion control module)
SRS: airbag system seems FUBAR.
EPS: electronic power steering system not playing nice, causing vehicle stability assist system to not play nice
one push start: cvt lost communication with EMC/PCM, thus making pushbutton start not communicate
Gauge: same as pushbutton start issue
driver support: same as pushbutton start, just affecting VSA braking
Body electrical: same.
All in all, sounds like something is causing lack of communication with the ECM/PCM. I'd make sure all of those issues are fixed before buying. Are you buying from a dealership or private seller?
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 519
Re: 2017 Civic Hatchback Error Codes
Are you buying it from a Honda dealership?
Are you buying the car from a private party?
(I can't think of many good reasons an individual would DUMP a car with only 500 miles)
Someone or something happened to the car to set all those codes (I have about two guesses right now).......can you get the service history of the car from the dealership?
Step 3: Erase ALL of those codes from every system on the car.
Rescan for codes to see if any faults are currently active.
Test drive and rescan to see if any new codes set during the drive.
Jesus, that's quite the list for a car that only has 500 miles on it. My 2018 has 2000-2500 miles on it with zero DTCs
Here's my take based on the codes provided, descriptions, listed by systems affected:
PGM-FI: Gas pedal sensor issue
CVT: Transmission lost communication/not communicating with ECM/PCM (engine/propulsion control module)
SRS: airbag system seems FUBAR.
EPS: electronic power steering system not playing nice, causing vehicle stability assist system to not play nice
one push start: cvt lost communication with EMC/PCM, thus making pushbutton start not communicate
Gauge: same as pushbutton start issue
driver support: same as pushbutton start, just affecting VSA braking
Body electrical: same.
All in all, sounds like something is causing lack of communication with the ECM/PCM. I'd make sure all of those issues are fixed before buying. Are you buying from a dealership or private seller?
Are you buying it from a Honda dealership?
Are you buying the car from a private party?
(I can't think of many good reasons an individual would DUMP a car with only 500 miles)
Someone or something happened to the car to set all those codes (I have about two guesses right now).......can you get the service history of the car from the dealership?
(Send me the vin in a PM)
Step 3: Erase ALL of those codes from every system on the car.
Rescan for codes to see if any faults are currently active.
Test drive and rescan to see if any new codes set during the drive.
I sent you a PM with a vin lookup report purchased from a company linked with Texas titles. The vin comes back completely clean except 1 thing. It appears to be sold by an insurance company but has a completely clean title. Also, It's registered near the Houston area and was sold (I think?) by an insurance company a month after hurricane Harvey. Looks suspect... I'm going to call the dealership that had it in Texas and see what they can tell me about it.
I just got off the phone with the original dealership. 90% of the dealerships inventory was salvaged due to hurricane Harvey. This car happened to be one of those cars salvaged in the flood. How does a car that was sold to an insurance company come out the other side with a clean title? The carfax is completely clean on this car. The only thing that gave me a hint was that it was sold at an auction.
I live in Dallas and the car is now in Florida. I had a plane ticket tomorrow morning to go out there. I even went to the bank and got a cashiers check. I'm glad I didn't trust the VIN report. Let this be a lesson to us all lol.
