FurBall

I had this last year, and was asking for some help from these forums, no one really know what the problem was.... I'm getting it again

When I turned on the car today, it was really difficult for the engine to start, and as soon as it cranked (took about 2 seconds versus usual 0.5s), all the needles on the dash went crazy, and started to move up and down (about 0.5cm)..... Not only that, every once in awhile, my ABS light would go on... All trip meters reset...

As I'm driving, I have alot of things powered on: heated mirrors, AC (to remove the fog from windows), radio, seat warmers, fog lights, wipers, etc. I noticed that EVERYTHING started to dim as I'm driving, getting dimmer and dimmer. When I stop, it's still dim. But, then I accelerate after the stop, the dash lights up alot brighter...

This happens usually when it's wet AND cold... Is my battery dying, or what? I hope to bring the car into the dealer tomorrow, but afraid of a crazy bill Any suggestions?

If it's the battery, would you recommend a Cdn Tire brand battery, or OEM? I don't think I need one of those high end Optima ones...

It's a 2001 EL, only major mod would be PIAA fog lights.

HELP!

The OLD thread I wrote is HERE .

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

The needles do that when power is suddenly cut and then restored to the cluster. Your trip meter probably is back to 0 as well. It's most likely a near dead battery, possibly an alternator problem. But get the battery checked first.

DragonAce

ditto..
one or the other

TeLLy

iTrader: (23)

Check the alt, check the battery charge, and as well, this happened to me too - turned out the battery terminals were dirty and the connecting clamps were both a little loose. I used steel wool to clean off the terminals and voila, like new.

I went out and bought new battery terminal clamps as well.

FurBall

Just brought the b!tch into the dealer, it felt REAL ugly on the way there... OMG, at the stop lights the ABS light goes on, and my CD player even stopped working!

They're doing an "AVR test", alternator-voltage reading, to see if it's the alt or the battery.

Questions:

- Anyone know how much an alternator costs, ballpark figure? What about labour?

- Should I go with another OEM battery again? Or Cdn Tire MotoMaster Eliminator? Both cost about $100 each, + ~$35-50 battery installation.

TeLLy

iTrader: (23)

1) Expect to pay a LOT for an OEM alt from Honda. I wouldn't be surprised to see the total bill leap well over 500. For that price, when my alternator fails (with an idiotic system like mine it's inevitable) I'll just buy a custom hi-amp one and install it my freakin self.
2) OEM battery is fine, my friend just got a Motomaster Eliminator and he tells me his starts are a little better in this cold weather. For a few bucks more, you could likely get a proven battery, the Optima Redtop, from Costco. I forget how much it costs there but I remember being tempted...

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Get an optima yellowtop for around $120. They do not get damaged from drain and recharge deep cycles like stock does. The stock battery is horrible. I have my yellowtop and it's fine even in very cold Illinois weather (below 0).

Look on ebay (search 2001 civic) for an alternator if you're out of warranty, but most likely it's the battery.

BIG

iTrader: (31)

02civic had th same problem....PM him and see what happened, I forget...

R1Style

iTrader: (20)

Like everyone else said. It can be the battery or alternator. I'd even double check your power wires to make sure nothing is loose. A poor connection could be causing the problem.