Exactly how bad is brake torquing?
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Exactly how bad is brake torquing?
I searched.
So I understand that it ruins your brakes, but exactly what is the extent of the damage? Is the damage caused by holding the car at high rpms? Or is the damage more due to the length of time that you hold the brakes for while the wheels are trying to turn?
Or is it not even that bad at lower rpms (<2500)? I'm assuming if you power braked from like 5000 rpm it might be bad, but is lower that bad?
It's not like I'm gonna do it every day, so no flames. I'm just curious about it from a structural standpoint.
IronFist
So I understand that it ruins your brakes, but exactly what is the extent of the damage? Is the damage caused by holding the car at high rpms? Or is the damage more due to the length of time that you hold the brakes for while the wheels are trying to turn?
Or is it not even that bad at lower rpms (<2500)? I'm assuming if you power braked from like 5000 rpm it might be bad, but is lower that bad?
It's not like I'm gonna do it every day, so no flames. I'm just curious about it from a structural standpoint.
IronFist
On domestics with V-8's with RWD and "strong" automatics seem to favor this, with minimal problems. But for FWD imports with stock trannys WILL have a shorten life span. I just don't think its worth it unless you beef up the drivetrain... (Either way your looking at spending some bucks...)
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you need a higher stall speed on your torque converter to be able to launch at higher RPMs like that.
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[hr]lol man, you are asking the wrong people. Everyone here is all "how do i connect my washer LEDs[hr]
[hr]lol man, you are asking the wrong people. Everyone here is all "how do i connect my washer LEDs[hr]
Brake-torqueing works, but so does neutral dropping. Both have adverse effects. Neutral dropping will start to shred your trannie, and brake-torqueing will start to shred your torque-converter. Most people will agree that brake-torqueing is less damaging, mainly because you could theoritically loose your trannie from a single neutral drop.
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[hr]Originally posted by: EvilDave666
lol man, you are asking the wrong people. Everyone here is all "how do i connect my washer LEDs."[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: EvilDave666
lol man, you are asking the wrong people. Everyone here is all "how do i connect my washer LEDs."[hr]
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[hr]Originally posted by: EvilDave666
lol man, you are asking the wrong people. Everyone here is all "how do i connect my washer LEDs."[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: EvilDave666
lol man, you are asking the wrong people. Everyone here is all "how do i connect my washer LEDs."[hr]
lol true [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
Brake Torquing - I.E. to hold the brake down while flooring it in gear presents no real threat to the brakes (brake-stands are a different story).
The two things that get stressed under brake torquing are: the engine mounts and the torque converter.
If you regularly maintain the vehicle the torque converter wont give you a problem (unless you launch every stop with a max stall speed brake torque) however over time the engine mounts wil likely break (brake break no pun intended) .
Anyway, brake torquing is perfectly acceptable, I wouldn't worry two much about launching the car occasionally with a brake torque.
Neutral drops are different and will destroy your tranny in NO TIME!
BTW you can not choose the maximum rpm to brake torque at, that is set by the stall speed of your converter (think two fans in a thick fluid).
most cars have a stall speed of 22-3300 rpm. Race cars have 5000RPM stalls.
The two things that get stressed under brake torquing are: the engine mounts and the torque converter.
If you regularly maintain the vehicle the torque converter wont give you a problem (unless you launch every stop with a max stall speed brake torque) however over time the engine mounts wil likely break (brake break no pun intended) .
Anyway, brake torquing is perfectly acceptable, I wouldn't worry two much about launching the car occasionally with a brake torque.
Neutral drops are different and will destroy your tranny in NO TIME!
BTW you can not choose the maximum rpm to brake torque at, that is set by the stall speed of your converter (think two fans in a thick fluid).
most cars have a stall speed of 22-3300 rpm. Race cars have 5000RPM stalls.
One thing to keep in mind about brake torquing (or brake stands/power braking)...these all cause your ATF temperature to skyrocket. If you do alot of any of these you'll want to change your ATF at much earlier intervals. Switching to a synthetic like Amsoil would be a good idea also.
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[hr]Originally posted by: mattskav
BTW you can not choose the maximum rpm to brake torque at, that is set by the stall speed of your converter (think two fans in a thick fluid).
most cars have a stall speed of 22-3300 rpm. Race cars have 5000RPM stalls.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: mattskav
BTW you can not choose the maximum rpm to brake torque at, that is set by the stall speed of your converter (think two fans in a thick fluid).
most cars have a stall speed of 22-3300 rpm. Race cars have 5000RPM stalls.[hr]
IronFist
Here ya go: How torque converters work
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[hr]Originally posted by: PESTLNC
If done right it shouldn't do any harm to a MT, but it's very hard to do right.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: PESTLNC
If done right it shouldn't do any harm to a MT, but it's very hard to do right.[hr]
i only brake torque when im racing..maybe 5 times a month
i only brake torque at the track. mine only goes up to 2800rpms
i dont think it will really hurt unless you do it often.
i only brake torque at the track. mine only goes up to 2800rpms
i dont think it will really hurt unless you do it often.
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