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Hey, should I remove my SRI and put the stock air filter back on before going to Honda to get the checkup? Will they say anything?[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG]

 
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its ok. I went for the 10k mile check up with my injen cai, they didnt care.

 
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Your dealership might be an ***, but they have no grounds to put up any sort of fight about it, the Honda Warranty says only products not designed for your year, model, and trim level will void your warranty. K&N's site goes into explicit detail about it not voiding your warranty and Honda gives you a number to call if they are bitces in your Warranty book. I think K&N also gives a number.

 
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Thanks

 
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forget the 10000 mile check up...
if u take it to Honda theyre just gonna charge u like $70.00 and just give u an oil change
IMO i dont think u need to take it in

 
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I'm still curious, though... What exactly do they check and about how much does it come out to be?

 
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SERIOSLY dont take it in. they dont do s s hiit! anyway its going to cost you around 80 bucks or so.
NOT WORTH IT

 
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gentlemen pls have more faith about our dealership service,after all,,its honda,just be nice to them ,as for a 10.000 miles check up...they will do everything the manual listed to do,,just trust them.

 
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trust a honda dealer what are you smoking bro? they rip us off and you want us to trust them I DONT THINK SO!.

 
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Actually Customer Service and honesty at Honda is great from what I've experienced. The 10,000 mile check up they MIGHT change your spark plugs but I doubt it. They'll definitely rotate the tires, check all fluids, do an oil change, maybe replace your windshield whipers.... If you ask them, they tell you what exactly it is that they do.

 
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Unless you're having problems with yoru car. you dont' need to take it in. Why? well. everything they do you can do on your own. and if you dont' know how to check tire pressure, fluids rotate tires and basic maintenance. then it's a good time to learn

 
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On a 10k our dealership does the following:

- oil change (oil, filter, top off fluids, tire pressure)
- tire rotation
- check brake pads
- check air filter
- add BG fuel treatment (supposed to help keep your injectors clean)

You can expect to pay over $100 for all of this. My advice is to do the oil change, tire rotation, and check air filter yourself. The air filter box is secured by 10 mm bolts. Just use a ratchet to loosen the bolts and be careful not to torque them too tightly when putting the bolts back in. Use the "see-through" test on the air filter - if you can see light go through the filter, it's ok. If it's dirty, then buy a new one from the dealer and install it yourself. You can buy the BG fuel treatment stuff at an auto parts store; just pop the lid and dump the stuff in your fuel tank.

At 10k your brake pads should be fine, unless you tailgate people 100% of the time and do all stop and go city driving. But if you really want them checked out and don't know how to do it yourself, you can ask the dealership to just check your brake pads. At the minimum they'll just charge you for 0.5 hrs of diagnosis time (about $30-40).

Hope this info helps.

 
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Actually there are some things done in high-mileage services (45k and above) that most people don't know how to do or don't have the proper equipment to do - such as performing valve adjustments and inspecting/replacing brake pads. Inspecting the brake pads is actually a fairly easy task (just pop the wheel off and use a flashlight to look at the brake pad), but unless you've seen what a new brake pad looks like it can be hard to judge how much % of the pad has worn off.

Valve adjustment is a very delicate process that involves measuring and adjusting the intake/exhaust valves in the engine head, and requires special equipment designed specifically for this task.

But apart from inspecting brakes, I don't see any compelling reason to pay a dealer for scheduled maintenance before 30k. At 30k, 45k, and 60k and beyond, we do things like adjust valves, replace the brake fluid, replace spark plugs, etc. that can be very difficult or impossible to do on your own.

Once again, if you want to get your brakes inspected by the dealership, then bring it in and ask them to do that only. Paying $100 for basically an oil change and tire rotation is just plain ridiculous IMO.

 
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according the manual in our cars we don't need a spark plug replacement for over 100,000. but they also say change your oil every 10K. I do mine every 5 cuz I drive it hard. so what do you guys say change the plugs at 50K?

 
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Damn, I change my oil every 3k. Old Habbit I guess.

 
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dood..dont even bother takin it in at 10k...you can do all that stuff yourself..just check your manual....unless you like throwing money away...

 
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Thanks about info on the 10 mm bolts. I was trying to find out the size at this forum and you've answered that question. Also, I would add the pointer that the bolts have a double thread. i.e, you only have to back off the first thread, the second keeps the bolt attached to the air filter cover and prevents you from losing them. An example of the attention to detail that the Japanese seem to be expert at.

If you get back to this I have a question, I examined my air filter at about 6500 miles and there was black soot, possibly from bus and truck emissions, building on the points of the folds of the air filter. The rest of the filter, the inside creases, were fairly clean. I put the air filter back in but I am thinking of replacing it at 10,000 miles. But should the original air filter be good for at least 15,000 miles?

 
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We have platinum tipped spark plugs, so I would think that they would still be good for up to around the 100k mile mark. There is nothing in the owners manual about driving conditions and spark plug replacement. It is 100 or 105k, whatever, for all driving conditions.

The 7th gen Civic went ahead of the Corolla as far as spark plugs but the 03 Corolla has pulled out in front, they are equipped with iridium tipped spark plugs with a recommended life of 120k miles.

 
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Don't worry about the black spot. As long as the rest of the filter is pretty clean, you're ok. And I'd just like to correct myself - the air filter bolts are actually 8 mm, not 10 mm (my bad). The older Hondas were a lot easier to take the air filter out, because all you had to do was release some metal clips.