NA 14sec D17A2
AKA Mr. 60ft. Not to be confused with Civic_Redline
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Originally Posted by Drk01Civic
When is the race? I think you're crazy but good luck buddy.
the other weekend. But if the guy is willing to thrown down a G he probally has some confidence and enough skill along with pwr to weight over the 7thgen. Do it for fun not for money. Unless your rich and money doesn't matter. Thread Starter
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Redline04 I see that you have run 15.11 with just bolt ons.... That is exactly what I am trying to establish.. IT is possible for me to run 14's because Redline dosen't have VTEC and also he dosen't have a cam nor does he have higher compression..... So that's why I say that I can take this guy. The race is carded for the 26th
you do have the puck clutch goin w/ flywheel and slicks
like thats gonna do more to your 1/4 time than most of your engine work lol
but ya if hes runnin on stockish clutch setup and regular tires i think you got a shot but he does weigh like 400 pounds less than you stock so you might want to think about taking up some form of religion and lay the praying on thick lol
like thats gonna do more to your 1/4 time than most of your engine work lol
but ya if hes runnin on stockish clutch setup and regular tires i think you got a shot but he does weigh like 400 pounds less than you stock so you might want to think about taking up some form of religion and lay the praying on thick lol
AKA Mr. 60ft. Not to be confused with Civic_Redline
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15.1 on DR's with 50 degree temps. 15.4 was my best on 17's. Dunno what temps are like there but I'd imagine pretty hot like here. I only ran a 15.3 2 weeks ago with temps in the 80's. If you can get your weight down you may have a chance. But those hatches wiegh less than me right now stock. Not into betting but if it was just for fun I'd go for it. Good luck.
Originally Posted by kezay
Redline04 I see that you have run 15.11 with just bolt ons.... That is exactly what I am trying to establish.. IT is possible for me to run 14's because Redline dosen't have VTEC and also he dosen't have a cam nor does he have higher compression..... So that's why I say that I can take this guy. The race is carded for the 26th
I think he'll take you down to Chinatown. B18C + older model hatch could take a D17 any day of the week. The fact that its a B18C with mild work and that its in a lighter-than-usual chasis only work against you.
Your setup look really nice, but in all truth without ECU reprogramming you're going to flounder, all-motor usually works best with a higher rev. limit, without ECU work you're going to be slamming into the rev-limiter way too much.
Your setup look really nice, but in all truth without ECU reprogramming you're going to flounder, all-motor usually works best with a higher rev. limit, without ECU work you're going to be slamming into the rev-limiter way too much.
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take off your doors hood and trunk. fenders windows make shur your low fuel light is on and you might be getting close to hanging with him. you said anything goes but forced induction
Originally Posted by kezay
I knoww I would gain alot if I tune properly but the only way i see it is with AEM EMS, but that kinda expensive for now.
But otherwise do you this that i can do this??
But otherwise do you this that i can do this??
forgot to mention
practice, practice, practice. after you sucessfully complete the mods, goto the track/strip and practice launches. find the best launch point, shift points, etc.
practice, practice, practice. after you sucessfully complete the mods, goto the track/strip and practice launches. find the best launch point, shift points, etc.
The question of whether or not somebody has VTEC or not is irrelevant. Econo VTEC or not, you're probably going to lose the race going against a B18, especially if it's just a straight drag race.
Cams and other internal mods cannot live up to their true potential without getting your rig dyno tuned and ECM optimized. You can have a whole laundry list of awesome mods, but if they're not tuned right it won't necessarily mean you'll be sweeping races.
If the guy's willing to put down $1000, he's pretty confident (or foolish). It sounds as though you haven't spent much time doing 1/4 mile runs either, so you'll be at a disadvantage.
Forget about egos and brag rights--just get your car to where it needs to be. Stripping out spare tire, AC, seats, etc. can only do so much.
Cams and other internal mods cannot live up to their true potential without getting your rig dyno tuned and ECM optimized. You can have a whole laundry list of awesome mods, but if they're not tuned right it won't necessarily mean you'll be sweeping races.
If the guy's willing to put down $1000, he's pretty confident (or foolish). It sounds as though you haven't spent much time doing 1/4 mile runs either, so you'll be at a disadvantage.
Forget about egos and brag rights--just get your car to where it needs to be. Stripping out spare tire, AC, seats, etc. can only do so much.
Originally Posted by kezay
Redline04 I see that you have run 15.11 with just bolt ons.... That is exactly what I am trying to establish.. IT is possible for me to run 14's because Redline dosen't have VTEC and also he dosen't have a cam nor does he have higher compression..... So that's why I say that I can take this guy. The race is carded for the 26th
you can go from ur current times to see what times would be possible when u get your work done
i don't think u have a chance, since its drag racing
i can't get below 15.9 seconds(first and only time) even when i was getting the best r/t, 0.0051 or 0.5051 seconds. i was running at road racing setup with full int.
yeah i want to know what times you're running now. we can help you more with that little piece of info.
like everyone said, the ECU will kill you. get some tuning, gut the car, and get some slicks on some 14s and pray. that's about all you can do.
like everyone said, the ECU will kill you. get some tuning, gut the car, and get some slicks on some 14s and pray. that's about all you can do.
slap an octopus on his radiator and then pray that the next day when he turns on his air con, he dies from the smell 
and if that doesnt work, buy a 100$ honda city and try to write off his car next time you see him take a drive,
or like others have said, dont drag

and if that doesnt work, buy a 100$ honda city and try to write off his car next time you see him take a drive,
or like others have said, dont drag
^ actually, he said it was a mildly built B18c ... which means either 180 hp or 200 hp ... plus whatever the other guy has in mods. B18c-gsr's dyno right around 155 whp bone stock + mods ... and it's in a hatch.
don't do it man ...
don't do it man ...
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well since your about to get your *** handed i'll just confirm it with this. 92-95 eg w/ b18c (depnding if it's gsr, jdm gsr, jdm type r/usdm r) is running at least low 14's. I'm running 14.3 (stock everything else) w. ebay intake and exhaust that's it. So go figure if he's slighty *built* and a decent driver he should be at least at 14.5
Last edited by XxJDMCivicxX; Jun 9, 2005 at 12:41 PM.
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anything goes except nitrous and turbo? take off your doors, run you tank down to about 1/8, remove the interior, get it dyno tuned, put on slicks on the lightest rims u can find, put ice in the intake, and just keep driving when you lose
Subarus FTW I do NOT miss my civic
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Originally Posted by modoman
anything goes except nitrous and turbo? take off your doors, run you tank down to about 1/8, remove the interior, get it dyno tuned, put on slicks on the lightest rims u can find, put ice in the intake, and just keep driving when you lose
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My 1\4 mile times are between 15.4-15.6 depending on my launch. However I not sure that the JDM civics like mine and the USDM civics use the same ecu fuel mappings, timing etc. We have no laws about being carb legal and all that kinda ****. Because believe me all other model of vehicles that come from the US has a slightly different tune on the ECU because of different laws in the US. Someone please clear this up for me ....
Originally Posted by aznboysrfr
I don't mean to cause offense or cause a stir
let me clarify.
if you are running a 15.4 and a typical bone stock b18c hatch is running a 14.4, a different ecu map is not going to compensate for the time ... but you still want to race and still wager $1000?




