Rep Power: 290

ok so im almost doing my sf turbo kit, I just want to know if weight reduction is really worth it. I mean some stuff yea but some nono. I removed rear seats, trunk dynamat(it actually came off), trunk floorboard, mats, and spare and jack stands, I removed all my sound system. I mean how much possible acceleration could I gain from those, also what else should I remove? should I remove the seats belts too?
I plan on keeping all my accessories. I just want to remove some parts in the front cause now my rear is all light while the front is going to be heavy cuz of the turbo... hmm

 
Rep Power: 339

seems like youre planning to go from daily driver to track only car. You can remove your center console and dash while youre at it. If youre seriously going track only, A/C and powersteering could go as well. I think it's not worth it if the Civic is the daily driver and driving everywhere is a must. It's only worth it if the Civic is your track car.

 
Rep Power: 314

look man that is the last thing you should be worried about... from the way it sounds you are going to need it

 
Rep Power: 0

what are you doing with the turbo-ed civic????

 
Rep Power: 347

CF hood. Also, it is probably better to get light weight rims then a lighter body. If you save 2-3 pounds on each rim it would be better than saving 10-12 lbs on the entire car becuase you'll have less rotating mass. Of course, that would also be counter productive if you get the larger size rims because the diameter difference would make a car accelerate slower.

Also, if you want to balance the car a little better, you can move the battery to the rear, which is a technique a lot of people have done to balance the car a little more...

 
Rep Power: 265

What is it a tenth of second for every hundred pounds (on 1/4 mile) doesnt seem worth it to me, but it's what you are building the car for...

 
Rep Power: 0

Only remove the seatbelt if you're putting in a roll cage and full harness. Even then, I wouldn't recommend it, as the whole system is linked together w. pre-tensioners and all the asst'd airbags. Keep the powersteering if you still want you car to function as a daily driver. To get an idea of what it would be like w. no PS, turn your car off while its still in motion and try steering, not so fun eh?

Barring that, you can chip away at the interior door panels, and any interior plastic panelling. After that, things start getting expensive if you replace metal exterior panels w. CF. Also, try a lightweight battery and as stated earlier, rims and tires that are lighter or of smaller diameter.

 
Rep Power: 290

no im not moving anything crazy. i have no gf just broke up with her like 2 weeks ago so i do not have anyone to drive. I took off bottome rear seats for now but im thinkinig of taking the top part off, if I dont im putting the bottom part on. might i say im only moving the stuff i dont need.. such as rear seats, everything in the tr unk cuz i got triple a and dude they charge me like 100 bucks if i need help, they take me anywhere I want within 100 miles 3 times a year for 100 bucks.. havent used it once and its going to a waste so forget the spare..
also im talking about the rear seat belts not the front, is it worth taking out.

also if i didnt remove anything up front and i remove some stuff in the back would it still be ok being heavier in the front than the back.
Im not moving any accessories such as ps,abs,ac etc...
got vis cf hood already just waiting for a good price on the trunk cause that things way more than the hood.

i got 16 inch rims with yokohama avs es100 tires which have alot of life since its only been used for like1k miles yet.. im sure with turbo that thing will burn like crazy, also i have big brake kit im thinking of getting rid of so i can get 14s...

the big brake kit only works with 16 so i got 16, should i get rid of it though? that is the question, i mean that thing helped 100% over stock rotors and pad so i liked it alot, but maybe I should go small so i can get 14s

 
Rep Power: 290

i want to put battery in trunk but I dont know if its hard, I mean could i route the wires in the car? what if the the wires touch ground and short circuit if you know what i mean..

 
Rep Power: 290

 
Rep Power: 321

Passenger seat, rear seat backs, rear bench, and rear seat belts adds up to less than 100lbs.
Along with the other stuff you took out, it would amount to less than 200lbs.
I'm not counting subs and other added weight you took out that wasn't stock.
Even with CF hood and trunk it'll only be less than 300lb reduction.

So all that for .2 or .3 seconds if 100lbs = roughly .1 faster.

For a daily driver, I would say it's not worth it.

For a track car, then go for it.

 
Rep Power: 290

not passanger seat, just rears its not like its hard to put it back on, but im definately getting rid of everything in the trunk...
thats why i got AAA they got hella good service, I mean 100 free miles, might as well take the car towed to norcal socal meet just to save mileage haha

 
Rep Power: 290

i was gonna add lip kit and oem spoiler how much do you think those weigh and do they really improve aerodynamics? should I get them? if I want to be weightless i shouldnt get them right?

 
Rep Power: 265

good sht, especially at 0555 in the morn with no sleep








yea def, good sht

 
Rep Power: 0

maybe you also want to consider doing diet...

 
Rep Power: 380

i just ripped out my back seat all my door panels, front seat, all interior trim, everything in the trunk. the only thing i have left id my drivers seat, center consoul, carpet, and dash. and its a noticable diffrence when you step on it.

 
Rep Power: 258

From the sounds of things.....what you are doing is completely NOT worth doing....stripping down to the basics is fine for a track car obviously, but you dont seem to be building a track car......who needs AAA at the track? If you're using this as a daily driver, I see your days to come as extremely boring, quiet, and hot in the summer, freezing in the winter.

 
Rep Power: 297

is it possible for you to get a pair of fiberglass fenders and door panels?

So that when you are doing track, you just swap to fiber glass exterior. Just be aware that by doing that you can't drive on the street safely.

 
Rep Power: 380

why are fiberglass fenders not safe? i see where complete fiberglass doors wouldn't be safe. but door panels? you mean doors?

 
Rep Power: 0

Fiberglass shatters or cracks when impacted, so it wouldn't be very good at absorbing any kind of forces in collission. I think the guy is still a bit wrong though, as the actual bumpers absorb no force, thats what the styrofoam cushion underneath is for, and as for door panels, they've got side impact beans under them. The sheet metal doesn't absorb a great deal of impact force, but it does help a bit. Maybe he's talk about the fiberglass splintering into sharp little bits or something?

 
Rep Power: 380

ok so lets see so i have an all fibergalss kit on my car that means im gonan be laes safe getting into a wreck at a head on 60mph crash than i would if i had 1/8th inch steal? no i just means that there is gonan be more crap to clean up. entire fiberglass doors wouldn't be safe, seeing as you wouldn't have the feinforcement beems. that is what keeps the casr from crushing in on you not the sheetmetal. all that will do is bend and crease. have you ever dented a car from kicking it or something. now imaginne soemthing 3000pounds hitting a car at any speed. sheet metal will be no safer than fiberglass as far as fender/and body skins go. its the crumble zone and reinforcements that protect the driver.